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Another person posting on here I suggested opening his unit and he had blown speakers. I think these that are DOA after previous use may be blown during the previous shutdown of the amp driving them and those with built in amps are blown when mixer is powered down putting out a large pulse. Hopefull the amp is blown rather than the speakers... cheaper to repair. Open and check for a fuse, but dont' replace it until you find out the cause of it blowing as additional damage can occur.
The unit will require repair and if you are not adept at electronics, you will need to take it to a shop. Likely there is failure in the power supply or amplifier that has blown the fuse. Replacing the fuse WITHOUT repairing the cause MAY do additional damage.
Either a short in the power supply such as diode(s), capacitor, or transistor(s) or in the power amp. It will require service. Replacing the fuse before repair will likely damage more components... don't do it!
You did a lot of damage, and replacing the fuse and trying it has caused much more.
There will be about seven blown parts on the amp and a dozen on the power supply. To give you an idea of the extent, the WHOLESALE parts cost is roughly $50, including the main power supply switchers IGBT's which cost nearly $20 for the pair by themselves.
I have repaired several of these and the larger cousin the PMP5000. It is a lot of skilled work to repair these.
The cause is a marginal insulation between layers of the multi-layer amplifier board. Usually the rearmost amp arcs between the layers. This fries three big switching transistors followed sometimes by a metering resistor and two small surface mounted transistors. A zener diode often goes. The cancer and burned area has to be ground out with a dental drill and new wire replaces the blown circuit traces.
If you are under warranty, take the unit for replacement.
The thing that can arc the amp is if speaker leads are marginal or get pulled out while under power. Excessive volume, especially pulses at high level can break down the insulaton causing the arc and failure. The black smoke is likely from the metering resistor.
Assuming the fuse being blown is in the power supply, it's common for high output amplifiers to suffer from dried out capacitors. The really big main filter caps on the power supply board. The caps themselves often show a bulging of the body and can literally explode if the unit is left on.
If that is all that's required I'd definitely get it fixed as any tech worth his salt should be able to change them in a short time. Actually getting the correct value capacitor may cause a hold up but they are available.
I guess whether you go ahead is a matter between you and your wallet or wife :-) but I certainly wouldn't condemn the amp just yet.
The power supply is blown. Argentina is 220V I believe. I have never seen a power supply schematic for this however being that it is low power it is a linear supply not switching. Either the rectifier diodes are blown out or possibly the output capacitors are blow due to approx double voltage. If you try this yourself be careful otherwise get a new amp. Good Luck