Question about GE Profile PSW26P Stainless Steel Side by Side Refrigerator

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Gsc3pgxcfss warm fridge, freezer working fine, lights off in fridge

My refigerator is getting warm and both lights go off. The fan is still running, but no cold air is coming from the freezer. freezer is working fine. when I pulled the fan and light assembly off, the light started working again. the model number is gsc3pgxcfss. Any help would be appreciated.

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  • Expert
  • 245 Answers

James, not sure I understand your message when you say both lights go off, but later say lights begin working. Do you mean they go off when you push the buttons at the door? And when you say no cold air comes from the freezer, is the freezer door closed? See if air begins flowing with freezer door open. If so it would indicate the return air path from the refrigerator to freezer is blocked.....damper staying closed or evaporator coil frozen up. The return air path has to be open to allow the freezer to keep sending out cold air to refrigerator when freezer door is closed. You might thoroughly defrost to make sure coil is not frozen.
If the door button for the refrigerator light is bad it can signal that the door is open all the time, so the freezer will never send cold air to the refrigerator. And that will be good news. Door switches are cheap. If you don't have a volt meter and know how to check switch, just remove the door switch from the refrigerator, leaving wires dangling, and close the door with a thermometer inside to see if it begins cooling (or just wait a while) I had that problem a year ago and was happy to find a bad door switch. More often it's a frozen coil, and that can be more expensive to fix. Sometimes you can discover a bad switch by pushing in the door button and the light stays on, but it doesn't sound like your situation.....sounds more like a frozen coil. If so, maybe all this extra information will help someone else.

Posted on Mar 23, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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fridgetech
  • 473 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer works; fridge side doesn't

First thing to check is look and see if there is  thick frost build up on the back lower panel inside the freezer?  If not there must be a problem in the damper (vent).  Let me know what you find so I can help.

Posted on Oct 21, 2007

SOURCE: ge side by side not cold enough in fridge or freezer

the fan behind the freezer panel inside

Posted on May 31, 2008

Krames
  • 18 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer side cold, frige side warm

Defrost heater is open behind back wall. order new heater #wr55x10101 remove 4 screws 2 bottom, 2 top behind light shield, defrost freezer so ice is off of evap, replace heater with new one.

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

SolutionGuy
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: Frost in frostless freezer, fan not blowing into warm fridge

Hi,
There are 2 things that cause these to not defrost. Kinda like the "Achilles heel" of GE fridges. The first one is the Defrost heater itself. And the second is the evaporator thermister (GE calls it a "sensor"). They are both very easy to replace. The part numbers are; WR51X10101 (heater) and WR55X10025 (sensor). If you don't have a local appliance parts retailer, just plug those numbers into a search engine. I highly recommend getting both parts because if the sensor hasn't failed yet, it will. The same goes for the heater...

Now for the fun stuff... Turn the temp knobs all the way counter clockwise to kill power to the fridge. Unload all the food from the freezer and remove all the shelves and the basket. Remove the screws that are holding the evap panel (the flat panel on the back wall, it's about 2 1/2 ft tall). Remove the panel to expose the evaporator. You'll see the heater at the very bottom of the evap connected by 2 screws, remove these and pull the heater out. Your new heater comes with instructions on how to install it.

After you have done that, look at the top of the evap. On the left, you'll see a little white sensor clipped to one of the evap tubes (shiny little clip), that has 2 wires feeding it. Remember which tube it's clipped to then unclip the sensor and pull it toward you. Snip the wires right at the base of the old sensor and completely remove it (leave the wires in there). Now separate those 2 wires and strip about 3/8" of insulation off. At this point, you are ready to follow the instructions that came with your new "sensor". Oh! and if it's all frosted up on the evap? Take this time (before you re-install the panel) to use a blow dryer and melt it away. All that'll be left to do is rebuild it.

There ya go! Job completion time= ~45 minutes. Easy breezy, right?

If this has been helpful, please don't forget to rate my solution. Thanks!

SG


Posted on Apr 05, 2009

tborn6
  • 700 Answers

SOURCE: GE Model GSH22JFTA Top of Fridg and Freezer not cold

check the door gaskets for air leakage

Posted on May 21, 2009

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