Question about Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603 Built-in Dishwasher
The top drawer is very hard to open or close sounds like scraping somewhere , bottom drawer is working fine
The top dishdrawer is hard to open or close as the lid seal actuator motors are most likely faulty or lost power. The scraping is the lid seal touching the drawer lid. The F7 and F9 error are a result of this fault with the actuator motors.
At the base of the dishwasher housing under the bottom drawer is the power board. From there the power is supplied to the controller and the motors. These motors move the lid seal into position. First turn the mains power to dishwasher off and then back on. See if this resets the motor position. If not you will have to call the technician to fix the problem. But if you are technical savy you could go to the base of the dishwasher and take the connectors of drawer 1 out from the power board and swap with drawer 2 which is working.
If power board connection is not making any difference, then motors are the likely problem. Needs a lot of expertise to replace and adjust the motors.
Posted on Mar 23, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi there, If you have had an F1 you need to dry out the product in order to reset the flood switch. This is a simple process as follows: 1. Ensure product is disconnect from wall so that it has no power. 2. Open the bottom drawer and put your hand in through the gap where the bottom of the bottom drawer comes out and feel the base of the cabinet that houses the drawers for water. 3. If there is water present dry it out as much as you can with paper towels or old rags. This machine is designed to drain all water to the front of the base of the cabinet away from the flood switch that sits at the back left corner of the cabinet base that the drawers are fitted into. 4. When you have base of the cabinet dry you need to ensure that the switch has not moisture on it in order for it to reset and allow you to start using the product. This can be done 2 ways: 1. leave bottom drawer open for 24-48 hours to allow natural air circulation to dry out the connection. or 2. position a hair dryer to blow air into the back left corner of the base of the cabinet and dry it out quicker. This still make take up to 6 hours as the flood switch had a protective cover over it to try to prevent F1's for small spills. 5. When the product had been dried out, important that you make sure it has, when you switch on the machine the F1 should be gone and ready to use. Please run each drawer seperately on a rinse cycle to confirm to yourself that it flooding was possibly caused by something blocking the sprayarm, or something stacked too high or something got stuck in the pump temporarily stopping it from draining effectively or the product suddsing too much from spilt rinse aide in one of the drawers. If each drawer runs successfully you should be in the all clear to start using it again. Please note though: if something blocks the spray arm that is directly linked to the pump your drawer will flood as a result. If you have something stuck in the pump peventing it from draining effectively ie a toothpick or piece of broken crockery this will cause your product to flood, but you will hear an louder than normal sound when the pump is running. And finally if you spill rinse aide in your drawer when filling it clean all spilt rinse aide to prevent unit from over sudsing when running. Regards KAR-Ltd
Posted on Aug 09, 2007
I have the manual for your model here what are you asking ?? is there a fault you want to reset?? if so what is it on the display?/ I dont know what you mean by>> " he reset it" reset what the drawer ? [please be as clear as possiable..If you are mech incline i can email you the manual
Posted on Jan 27, 2008
fisher and paykel sent me a solution - turn off at wall and unplug then turn back on. The dishwasher reset itself and the drawer unlocked.
Posted on Nov 25, 2008
F1-water on bottom of dishwasher. Uselly it cost by broken drain hose. Need expert tech to fix the problem.
I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/vitaliy_f406165329c75ede
Posted on Dec 01, 2008
You need a Air gap kit designed by Fisher and Paykel to address this problem. It is pricey but it is worthy. I used this and very happy with it since no back flow problem from one while other running. Here is a link to order it.http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/product/WT50/WT50-Dual-Air-Gap-Kit/
Posted on Dec 29, 2009
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