Question about RTO American Heat Tankless Electric Water Heater

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I have an American Heat AHK1. The power went out and when it came back on the heater no longer turns on or even lights up. The digital display showing on/off and temp no longer lights up. Is there a

Richard at the company told me my water heater was built 5 years ago and must have been "old stock" since I bought it about 6 months ago. Upon further inspection I found a production date of 2012. It is a waste of time calling the company.

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If you had a power surge at your home, and no more power seems to be going to the heater, you must make sure that none of your wires from the load center all the way to the heater are intact and all have been wired correctly and none are lose. If you must be very careful reading manufacturing dates as these dates are actually displayed backwards and the year is actually displayed as the month, you may in fact have an older heater, as sometime when these heaters are purchased by distributors they don't get to sell them until way after or they have had one in storage for a while when they decide to sell them. I have spoken to the guys at the factory and they are very informative, I don't see how they could not help you as I deal with them on a daily and we always try and help there customers, why don't you bring the heater in there service department is great it only takes 5 minutes to fix the heater. If you mail it in its only 24-72 hr turn around.

Posted on Apr 07, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: The pilot light & will stay lit. untill the burner cycles on/off


Posted on Jan 09, 2010

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SOURCE: I have an American Heat adk-1. As of this morning

You need to get a real tankless water heater, I had one of this brand and what a waste of money, when you call the company they do not speak very good English and if you talk to Richard whom is supposedly the VP he is as dumb as a mule.

Posted on Nov 02, 2010

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SOURCE: Exactly wher eis the ele element located on an

There should be access from inside RV to get to the back of water heater. Make sure you have the hydro breaker shut off. On the back there is a cover where hydro wires etc, go in to. That cover has to be removed to give you access to element. Once cover is off, you should see element down low. You may want to test for voltage at element, then check switch ( on side or top of cover) and reset at ECO, (push in on little reset in center of ECO ) just in case one of them was the problem, and save changing the element.Then carefully test for voltage at element terminals. If voltage there and not getting hot replace element.

Posted on Feb 15, 2011

Testimonial: "Very helpful, I will follow the instruction given....Thanks again..........Richard."

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You need to get a real tankless water heater, I had one of this brand and what a waste of money, when you call the company they do not speak very good English and if you talk to Richard whom is supposedly the VP he is as dumb as a mule.

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The red button you pushed on the hot water heater was probably what is called a "piezo-electric" ignitor. It's normal for it to make a snapping sound and then pop back out. It sounds like you just lost the pilot light.

That being the case, do this:

Turn the gas valve on the hot water tank to the "off" position - it should be silver in color and down low on the tank. You may have to push it down to do this
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While holding the pilot gas valve down, push the other red button to the right of the main gas valve - this is the piezo ignitor - push it several times in a row quickly

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You can stop pushing the ignitor now, but continue to hold down the gas pilot valve (the one just left of the main gas valve). Let this valve up after about another 20 seconds or so.

Now rotate the main gas valve to the "on" position

Listen carefully - you should hear the main gas light and feel heat at the water heater flue outlet on top - don't touch it with your hand - you could get burned

If no luck, repeat the process until the heater re-lights

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Just a potential diagnosis - the thunder clap, if as close as you describe, may have been intense enough to create what is known as a "draft inversion" that may have snuffed out your pilot light. The air pulse came down the flue pipe.

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1 Answer

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The high limit should be on the top side of the unit near the exhause. Check your manual for location and to find out if it can be reset.

Mike Wenger

Apr 04, 2009 | RTO American Heat Tankless Electric Water...

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