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In your freezer section there are 2 door switches -- press each one. One turns off the light. The other turns ON the freezer evaporator fan. If the freezer compressor is running the evap fan should RUN when the switch is depressed. If not, the fan motor is defective OR the switch is defective. Easy to troubleshoot the switch - just pry it out with a screwdriver, short the terminals with a piece of insulated wire. If the fan runs, it's OK and the problem is the switch.
If it's the fan, it's not hard to replace. Get replacement motor, turn freezer control to off, remove food and shelves, then the back sheet metal panel. Fan is right behind the panel.
It appears that one of the door operated switches for the interior light is making contact even though the door is closed. This is indicated by the interior light staying on. It could also be that the "Off/ Door/On" Control switch on the main interior is faulty. Check each door switch by operating manually with finger with door open to see if light goes out.
It this check makes light go out then it could be that one of the door catches is slightly out of adjustment allowing door to sit slightly away from body. Try checking each door for a loose fit by pushing the closed door in and observing if interior light goes off, especially the driver's which gets the most use. There should be only a little movement as the sealing rubbers are squeezed a little more. If door catches are tight then it may be that the rubber pad attached to the door that pushes on the door switch button has compressed and is allowing switch to make contact. If these checks don't produce results then there could be a problem with one of the door switches being faulty and making constant contact.
You have two fans and one damper door assemly on this refrigerator model. You have a freezer fan that you should hear turn on. With the refrigerator fan, which is located inside upper duct assemly, it should not turn on until you hold the door switch closed. You should also feel air coming out the top duct assembly vent when you hold the swith down. So, in a nutshell, listen for the small fan to turn on inside the refrigerator top duct assembly, feel for airflow, and listen for the freezer evap fan to turn on. There can be many issues, the damper door breaks on these models, the controls boards go out all the time resulting in no fan, the evap fan shorts out sometimes and takes the control board with it. :-> Sorry to overload you but I hope this sheds some light.
Remove the back panel and see if the fan is turning. You will need it in the running cycle with the door switch closed. The noise your hearing is probally the fan assembly AP4008960. Make sure it is mounted tight and the back panel is not rubbing or loose. If the fan is making noise with the panel removed replace.
on most units they have two controls refrigerator control is electric t-stat that runs compressor freezer control think of it as a door colder freezer door is barely open warmer freezer door all the way open all cooling coils are in the freezer and a fan moves the air to refrigerater side possible problem fan not running
door freezer control all the way closed
light switch broken light staying on door gasket not sealing tight find door switch press verify light shuts off and fan starts
look for torn or damaged door gasket can look from outside with light and see if gasket contacts case on all four sides
freezer is cold enough so compressor is ok hopr this helps good luck ron
there is a timer on the interior lights to turn off after 20 minutes.
one of your door switches are bad,and it tells the computer that a door is open and the lights are turned off,that makes sense.
a way to test this is to undo the battery for a minute. then see if the interior lights come on. one of the door switches is bad
when you plug it back in, can you hear fan in the freezer, you may have to hold a door switch in so the light goes out, if you cant hear the fan, thats it
but if you can, check your door seals on both doors do they close well and air tight
if they do
you have a defrost issue, it is either the heater, timer or termminator,
sorry icant be more specific
The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, is controlled by a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals. With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.
((If the switch is ok, and it passes the test, simply replace the fan)).