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dual voice coil subs hook up mono on amp, from amp - from right side + from left side of amp run to sub n then jumper wires from one side of sub to the other side goes negative jumps on positive and positive jumps on negative
First youll need an amp. Depending on what size the sub is a 500 watt rms amp can hold up to about a 300 watt kicker. If your looking for something bigger u can get a 1000 watt amp and hook up two 300 watt kickers. To hook up the amp youll need a car amp power cable, power control cable, speaker wire, amd a car amp ground wire. They usually sell kits that run aboyt 40 bucks. The power cable goes to the batter as well as the ground cable. The power control cable goes to the back of the head unit. (You will kost likely need a more modern headunit if urs is stock). Once this is done put the sub in the box (i recomend super glue because metal nails take away from the bass). Put the speaker wire to the speaker positive on left negative on right. Same with the amp. And now ur bumpin ;)
OK what you are saying now is that your speakers are dual voice coil; models? 4 Ohms per Coil? I have always used single 4 Ohm Voice ciol speakers since amps are mostly based on 4 Ohm outputs. but you can get 8 Ohm dual voice coil subs also. With 8 Ohms per coil you can get 4 Ohms if you parallel the wires. What is best for you and will get you the most stable power and still will be in the specs of that amp is to run the amp in BRIDGED MODE running each subs voice coils in series with each other then run those 2 subs in parallel to the amplifier giving it a 4 Ohm load. So, your will have two sets of wires from your amp 1 for each speaker. Then you will take a short piece of wire that will connect the + to the - of each voice coil then hook up the wires from your amp to each sub What it will be is 4 Ohms + 4 Ohms = 8 Ohms per speaker the 8 Ohms in parallel each speaker to the Bridged amp output using just the + from one channel and the - from the other will give you a total of 4 ohms and power out put of 600 Watts so that ends up being 150 watts per voice coil or 300 watts each speaker
That amplifier is only rated at 150 watts at 4 ohms, or 300 watts at 2 ohms. Not a very strong amp to run 2 kicker comps. My guess is you have the subs wired wrong for your application. There are 2 types of subs, one is a dual 4 ohm, and one is a dual 2 ohm. Most people bridge these coils together and that cuts your ohms in half. For example. Lets say you have the 10cvr104 subs. Thats the dual 4 ohm sub. You wire the coils together in parallel, now its a 2 ohm sub. You have 2 of these subs running off of your amp, if they are hooked up in parallel, now you have a 1 ohm load, out of the amplifiers normal operation. Your amplifiers internals heat up really quick and there is a thermal overload, putting your amplifier into circuit protection mode. My suggestion for wiring your subs is as follows: for each speaker, wire the coils together like this- positive coil1 to negative coil 2 and negative coil 1 to positive coil 2. That is called running in series, and doubles your ohm load. Next, we need to wire the speakers together properly to hook up to your amplifier. For this, since the coils are hooked together, you only need to use one set of terminals from each sub. And take the positive from sub 1 and hook it to positive of amp. Take negative sub 1 and hook it to positive of sub 2. Take negative of sub 2 and hook it to negative of amp.
You either have a short in your wiring (between the amp and the sub) or have wired the sub(s) at too low of a resistance. If for example you have wired it to 2 ohms, when the amp can only support a 4ohm minimum, the protect light would come on once you tried to turn up the volume a bit. This may happen if you have lost the wiring off one of your subs or one of the voice coils, thereby affecting the total resistance.
First I hope you remove the speaker wires from the speaker that come from the built in amplifire. You cannot hook the powered sub to the amp without doing that first. Then all you need to do is run speaker wire from the sub out of the box to the amp. In no way can you hook up any other part of the powered sub, but the sub itself, to the amp. If you know the wattage of the sub and the ohms then wire it to the amp correctly. Your phoenix amp will put out 125 watts x 2 at 4 ohms and 250 watts x 2 at 2 ohms and 500 watts x 1 at 4 ohms bridged. Remember, only the sub itself in the sub enclosure can be connected to the amp. Hope this helped you. Let me know if you need more help.
That amplifier is 900W x 1 @ 2ohms.
If your subs are 4ohm SVC wired Parallel, resulting in a 2 ohm load, each sub will only see 1/2 of the rated power. (450W ea.)
Your gain (sensitivity) setting should be between 75% and 85% to max. You will be fine.
In general, there are two ways to hook up your sub-woofer. First using the high level outputs from your receiver ( speaker output from the front R & L speaker terminals ) run a set of wires from the outputs to the speaker inputs on the sub-woofer, you do this in concert with the speaker wires going to the front R & L speakers which you then attach to the R & L speaker outputs on the sub woofer amp. Note that the sub woofer doesn't power your front speakers, the connections from the sub amp are just a pass through connection where the signal needed by the sub is parasitically taken from the inputs. Second is via a low level output from your receiver / amp to the low level input on your sub amp. This is normally done via a RCA type of patch cable and connected to the sub woofer RCA jack on the rear of the source receiver or amp, Next run the patch cord to the sub amp an into the RCA jack input. IF you have a right and left input, use the Right input.