Question about Washing Machines
During the draining the drum was making very loud noise and vibrations and stopped on its own (water on the floor)and restarted.We stop the program, clear the filter(there was a baby safety pin).Restart draining program and its perfect.We start the drying program, it starts and stops a couple of second after.Cut the power for 5 mins and try to restart but nothing works now.Open and fix the loose hose but nothing works except the on off button.Cut the power again but still dead.
Its hard to say what your problem is without more information.
If you had a lot of vibration and water from a broken hose, you may have shorted one of the sensing units or main board.
Try to clear the program by disconnecting power and holding down the start key for a few seconds. Similar to Clearing the CMOS on a desktop computer.
Hope this helps
Posted on Mar 22, 2014
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
New users get 2 Free calls (no credit card required) and instant help on almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, appliances, handyman, and even pets).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Kenmore Oasis HE won't drain
I had the exact same problem last night.
Here is what I did and it fixed it with NO PARTS or SERVICE CALL.
First, I took the drain hose and Blew through it with my mouth... I got air bubbles to come up in the wash bason, this told me the drain pump and hoses were not "Clogged"..
Next I took a shop vac and a 5 gallon bucket and used the vac to **** on the drain hose to start a siphon into the bucket...worked like a champ... I had it drained in less than 3 mins....
I Took the back cover off and then the drain pump off and took the 4-5 screws out of the mounting bracket and took the pump cover off.
What i found when I did this was that there was a VERY SMALL FLAT ROCK stuck between the impellor and the pump casing.
WIth a small screw driver I flicked out the rock and the impellor was free again... HOWEVER, When you do this, the impellor will turn half way and stop... half way and stop, half way and stop...etc.........IT WILL NOT SPIN FREELY like a top. When the motor is still attached to the pump, the armiture in the motor still gives reisitance to the impellor...This I PRESUME this to be normal..
I ended up putting it ALL back together except the back cover to test it...I turned it to a wash cycle and let it run for a few mins. Then i hit stop twice to cancel that wash request. Then i started a second wash cycle and the drain pump kicked right on to drain the water left in the basin from the first test wash..... So far she's purring like a kitten..... Fingers Crossed of course...
Posted on May 18, 2008
SOURCE: loud noise at end of spin cycle
The most common cause of the symptom you are describing is a bad drive block which has probably ruined your basket drive as well. Let me give a quick explination. The weight of the basket you put your clothes in is supported entirely in the center of the washer underneath your agitator. It rests on an aluminum block called your drive block. So that the basket will move back and forth while the washer agitates, there are two tabs on the drive block that lock your basket drive underneath in place. Once the drive block wears out or round down these tabs, the basket will raise slightly and "skip" across the top when the spin cyle is stopped. To verify this, you can check one of two things. First (and easiest) is put a heavy, large load in the washer, get it wet then spin it out. Once the washer reaches the maximum spin speed, open the lid. The washer should snap to a halt when functioning properly. What I belive you'll find is that even with the lid open, the basket will continue to spin. The other method to verify this is take the top of the agitator off. Next remove the bolt in the middle of the agitator and lift the agitator off. In the middle, you should find a large flat metal colored nut.In the middle of that nut, you should see two tabs across from one another. There should be two straight pieces of metal coming up from the bottom which have nice, straight sharp corners. Again, if I am correct, you will find they have been rounded off and there may even be shavings of metal visable.
To replace a basket drive and drive block, you will need to purchase the parts and also a specialty tool from removal and instalation. These will probably run you around 125-175. If you are interested in giving it a go, reply back to me and I will get you some step-by-stpe instructions typed up.
Posted on Jun 26, 2008
E12 means a problem filling on dry cycle.
Unplug the appliance, take the top off and check that the plastic condenser below the fan is clear and clean.
If this is ok, the most likely fault is the triple valve isn't opening properly to feed water into the condenser.
Posted on Nov 03, 2012
Tips for a great answer:
Sep 28, 2012 | Whirlpool Dishwashers
Sep 22, 2017 | Bosch Axxis WFL 2060 Front Load Washer
Jul 13, 2010 | Bosch Axxis WFL 2060 Front Load Washer
Apr 15, 2010 | LG WM2496H Front Load
Mar 09, 2010 | Bosch Axxis WFL 2060 Front Load Washer
Nov 10, 2009 | Zanussi ZWD12270 Front Load Washer / Dryer
Oct 11, 2008 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer
Apr 13, 2008 | Bosch Washing Machines
98 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!