Question about Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer
DRYER TURNS BUT NO HRAT
Most common problem is a bad thermal fuse if the element is not burned out.
Posted on May 19, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: no heat in dryer.
First, I assume that the drum spins OK but there is no heat. Many things can cause this. From the most likely cause to the least likely:
1) An open thermal fuse. This is a small "thermostat" with 2 wires at the middle/top of the heater "box" (a tall narrow box on right in the back of the machine), or a plastic type on the duct close to the blower, depending on the model. You will need to remove the back cover of the machine to see these. Check with an ohm meter after disconnecting one of the leads, or jumper the 2 wires together to see if heater works (don't use this way though, fire hazard... replace the device) If this proves to be the cause of the problem, it would be wise to check all ducts and blower for excessive lint buildup. This will reduce air flow, causing overheating and blown thermal fuses.
2) A burned out heating element. Remove tall box on right, element slides out from the bottom together with the "carrier". Look for broken coil, or check 2 terminals at bottom with ohm meter.
3) Burned wires at connectors. Check for obviously overheated wire terminals at all sensors (thermostats and thermal fuses in back), heater box, main terminals where power cord hooks up, etc.
4) Bad thermostats. There are usually 2 or more. A high limit on heater box, just above terminals on the bottom. 1 or 2 will be on the duct next to the blower. Check these with an ohm meter (or continuity checker). Some have 4 terminals, the extra 2 small terminals are small heaters inside the thermostats which alter it's temperature characteristics. These will usually read around 4000 ohms or so. Check the 2 main largest terminals for continuity.
5) Only getting 110 volts: This is often overlooked, but if for some reason one of the poles feeding the 220 power from the house wiring is open but the other is OK (for example, houses with fuses where only one fuse is blown, or a bad circuit breaker with one pole open). The motor and timer run on 110. If the side of the 220 line that feeds the motor is OK but the other one is open the motor will run but the heater, which needs 220 will not heat. Check for 220 volts between the 2 outer terminals where power cord connects or between the 2 "hot" terminals of the 220 outlet the dryer is plugged into.
6) Bad centrifugal switch in motor. This is what actually turns the heater on, for safety reasons, so the heater cannot come on unless the fan is spinning. Otherwise without air flow past it, the heater would burn out.
There are 2 large gauge (usually red or yellow) wires going to the connector on the motor, these go to the contacts inside the motor that turn the heater on.
Posted on Jul 20, 2009
Your problem may be attributed to a clogged exhaust system (e.g.: clogged inside the dryer's vent, flexible vent behind dryer clogged and/or clogged inside wall, etc.).
Posted on Feb 22, 2010
Your heating element needs to be replaced, or the 240 breaker in your breaker box has tripped. I was a maytag technician for several years...So, check your breaker box for any tripped breakers or the heating element in the dryer needs to be replaced, or the t.stat for the element has blown.
Posted on Apr 26, 2010
SOURCE: Gas ingnition does not start
unplug the dryer and check the ignitor,the sensor and the thermal fuse located on the blower wheel housing,also if the dryer works correctly for the first 15 to 30 minutes then will not ignite again you have bad gas coils,also if the ignitor glows but flame doesn't lite most likely it's the coils,while your in there vac out the dryer,the duct where the lint filter slides into and if the vent line is long blow it out with a leaf blower
Posted on Jul 04, 2010
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