Question about Sanyo MDF-U53VA V.I.P. Insulated Upright Freezer -86 C 18.3 Cu. Ft

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Is there a way to calibrate the internal probe (digital reading in front) on the MDF-U53VA?

I would like to know if there are instructions on how to calibrate the internal probe on the MDF-U53VA. I can't find anything about how to do that in the instruction manual.

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Why does my ice maker not get cold enough to produce ice? I have a Samsung RFG297HDRS French Door refrigerator. Everything is functioning except for the ice maker. Water is getting into the ice maker


Ok Randy, Lets fix it.

My name is Peter. I am a retired refrigeration field service technician.

You are not getting cooling air to your ice maker freezer compartment. Once again Samsung - bad design - put a ice maker in the fresh food section.

So, you have a ice maker enclosed next to the fresh food section where the recommended temperature setting is 35-40 degrees F.
Where as your recommended freezer temperature is +2/-2 degrees F.

There is a air damper/vent from the bottom freezer in the back of your ice maker housing. Lets remove the ice maker to check for ice build up. On the left hand side of the housing on the wall there is a long narrow cover plate. This is where you connector harness is located. There are 2 screws holding the front end in and a tong and groove tab in the back. Remove the cover plate.

Now, pull the harness out.

Lets remove the ice maker assembly. There are two screws in the front end securing the ice maker to the top of the casing. These screws are recessed. They are either Philips heads or hex heads (1/4"). If they are hex head, he recessed hole diameter is small. Some hex head hand tools will not fit. A screw gun will work or a small outside out side diameter hex head hand tool.

Remove these screws. In the back in each corner is a tong & groove. Pull forward to release the ice maker. Using a small flat head screw driver wedge the wire harness to release. Set the ice maker aside.

Inspect the air vent/damper for ice build up. Use a hair dryer to defrost.

I do not believe you have a automatic damper controlled by a thermistor (temperature sensor). If you do, Remove the damper assembly. Get your multi-meter. Set your meter to the lowest Ohm reading (Omega on your meter) Touch the two probes on your meter together, you meter should read 1.0. Disconnect the 2 motor contacts. On the motor place one probe on one contact and one probe on the other contact. If the meter still reads 1.0 the motor is bad. If the meter reads 0-50 Ohms the motor is good.

If there is no ice buildup & the damper motor checks out, replace the temperature sensor.

You will find getting the wiring back into the side panel will be a little difficult. As usual, Samsung is not service friendly.



Oct 22, 2014 | Samsung RFG297HDRS 29.0 CuFt French Door...

1 Answer

Frigidaire FFU14F5HW Hi-Temp alert. Checked thermistor at front panel pins 1 to 2, reading was 162.8K ohms. Removed panel to check thermistor, then put it in a cup of ice water-now reads 32.1K ohms. P


Check the internal temp with a thermometer. Anything above -12c will give you the hi alarm. Check the condenser is clean and drier not too warm, no ice build up inside the evaporator and all fans working properly etc, before suspecting thermistors.

Apr 02, 2014 | Frigidaire FFU14F5HW 13.7 cu. ft. Frost...

1 Answer

Deep freezer model fh25dsd


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You need to unplug the freezer because the compressor is getting hot and the reason the compressor is trying to start but cannot. This clicking is possibly a defective=> WR7X225 Start Relay or a defectve WR62X10058 Run Capacitor If you have an OHM meter you can test the compressor windings. as in the instructions here=> Unplug the freezer and remove the back panel that covers the compressor. There should be 3 wires going inside the cover of the compressor. Mark all 3 and mark their location so if compressor is OK you can put them back in same order. The plastic cover may snap on and you may need to squeeze the sides to unlock the cover and sometimes there is a metal clip holding the cover in place. Remove the cover. May look hard but it's simple. There will be three connections under the cover and 2 will go through the start relay. Unplug them leaving the three prongs exposed. They may be marked R =Run, S=Start and C=Common. Set your meter on continuity and then begin by testing 2 at a time until you have checked S to R and R to C an C to S and S to R again. You should get a reading all the way around. If no reading between any of the pairs as you go around you should get no reading between any two the compressor has an open winding and is defective. Then if it passes that test then touch one probe to R and the other to the copper pipes or clean metal on outside of compressor, then S to metal outside and C to metal outside. If you get a reading this way even just a little. The compressor is a burnout. Then let me know what you find. Thanks, Sea Breeze
Have you already solve this problem?

Jul 15, 2013 | GE Freezers

1 Answer

Over temperature warning light has come on


When the overtemperature light comes on it is an indication of possible failure.
But before panicing check these items first.
1.Condenser clean
2. Condenser fan operating (if so equipped)
3. Clearence around unit to allow proper air flow
4. Is compressor running ? (if not check relay, overload)

The compressor relay's purpose is to start the compressor. A faulty relay can result in the compressor failing to cycle on. The relay is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator.
Before testing a compressor relay, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard. Also, if the compressor uses a capacitor, it must be discharged first to avoid the risk of electrical shock.
The compressor relay can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip.
Remove the compressor relay by pulling it straight off from the compressor
Pull the wire off of the side terminal of the relay. It is connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers.
Inspect the connector and terminal for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
There are two types of relays you may encounter, wire coil and solid state. If the relay has an exposed wound wire coil it can be tested for continuity. Otherwise, the relay is of solid state design and requires specialized equipment for testing.
Test the compressor relay for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1.
With the relay upside down, place the probes into the terminals labeled "S" and "M". The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms, indicating continuity (or if using a continuity tester, it should light up).

relaytest1b.jpg With the probes still in place, turn the relay over. You should hear the click of the magnetic switch engaging. The multitester should now display an ohm reading of infinity (or the tester should not light up).
Turn the relay upside down again, place the probe on the "S" terminal and place it on the side terminal labeled "L".

relaytest3b.jpg The multitester should now display a reading of zero ohms (continuity). Turn the relay over and the reading should change to infinity.
With the relay upside down place one probe on the "L" terminal and the other probe on terminal labeled "M".

relaytest2b.jpg The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms. Turn the relay over and the reading will stay the same, zero ohms.
If the compressor relay does not pass all of these tests, it should be replaced

Aug 07, 2011 | Swan SR5170 Freezer

1 Answer

The alarm keeps going off but the freezer stays cold


Hi, some freezers, mainly chest type have a alarm button on them, which is located in various places to shut it off. Yours is showing a photo of an upright. I would suggest getting a free standing thermometer to set in the freezer to make sure it is staying at the setting you have. It could be that your thermostat is in need of calibration causing it to sound off when it isn't supposed to.What we recommend on freezers that have this problem, as long as there is no problem with it working, is to disconnect the alarm buzzer on a temp. basis. All that is needed to do, is to locate the alarm which you should be able to see and hear. Get to the wiring, kill power and clip one wire to the alarm. Very easy to do when you have found it. If it has male or female connectors going to it, just unplug one of the wires going to it which will stop the alarm only. Very simple wiring going to it. You can always plug it back in if for some reason you want to sell it in the future, or just leave it off. If you cant do this, you will have to call out a tech who will go through the system and try and find out why it is going off. It is either out off calibration it self, or the thermostat control is off. This can get costly. I normally don't recommend cutting or removing a wire to repair something, but this is a exception. On commercial walk-in boxes, we sometimes take the alarm probe which is on the return- air side of the freezer when they fail or are a problem with going off, and just move the probe into the supply air side which solves this problem. I have had this happen to many freezers on this site, and by doing this has solved the problem with out costing a lot of $$$. This is the only reason I have them do this is the cost of having someone out.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, Refrigeration, & Heating Contractor.

Jan 07, 2011 | Kenmore Freezers

3 Answers

Samsung RSA1WTMH i just blew my fusebox and my fridge freezer just flashing 1 led light


Hi,
hope the following helps you, I had a similar problem with my RSH1 and it took me a few hours searching online before I found the following.
"Hi, I have it on good authority that this is the system check for Samsungs (RS21, SRS20, etc) during normal operation, is to hold the top two buttons down, just until display flashes - this will reset the electronics.
Secondly, if the top two buttons are held down for longer (8 seconds) the display goes blank and will show any error messages in the form of DASHES
I have experimented with unplugging air or frost probes - and the error code you get -on a blank screen is different parts of the last digit lighting up.
Example: when i disconnect the fridge air-probe, shut both doors, hold down top buttons around display - The SIDE of the last "8" digit lights up ! ...strange but true.
But, I need to know what it means when the BOTTOM of the "8" digit lights up"

I am still trying to find a list of the error codes the lines refer to but so far my unit is working fine.
Angus

Sep 21, 2010 | Freezers

1 Answer

When Freezer goes into Heater Defrost Cycle it shorts and trips the GFI. I have to turn the defrost timer to reset and enable the GFI. Is it the heater that's bad? PLMK Thanks, Dan.


Good day,
It could be either the main heater, as you said or the defrost thermostat which is clipped to the top of the cooling coil.
You will need an ohm meter for testing.
Set the meter at RX1 remove the wires that connect the heater to the machine. With the ohm meter, use one end of the probe on one of the 2 heater leads. The other probe can be touched to the cooling coil, since it is grounded. You should read infinity. If you get any reading on the meter,replace the heater. It is necessary to perform the test on both heater leads, one at a time.

Do the same thing with the defrost thermostat. However, the thermostat can not be allowed to warm up since it will open it's circuit when it reaches somewhere around 50 degrees, and not reset until it goes back to 20 degrees.

Jul 12, 2010 | Kenmore 13.7 cu. ft. / 388 liter Upright...

1 Answer

Unit not coming on


Start out by putting the power switch in the "Wash" position. If pump motor comes on, but unit does not run in "Ice" position, more times than not, it's the power switch. If nothing happens in the "Wash" position, check the bin t'stat. It's probably open and not letting power go through it.
Good Luck and hope this works. Get back to me if it doesn't and we'll go a little further. Please get serial number too.

Oct 02, 2009 | Hoshizaki Commercial Freezer KM-500MAH

1 Answer

Im45le-25 defrost appears to go to long thus deforming evaporator probe holder & damaging probe as wont go into harvest mode .does machine use time as well if probe etc fail


Yes, the sensor detects the temperature of the evaporator plate then the PCB reverts to the adjustable timer. Check the probe in a glass of ice water. the reading should be between 5-7k ohms. if out of this range replace the probe. also check heat transfer paste is on holder and good contact is made probe to plate.
Be sure you are adjusting the pot the correct way as the large refers to the dimple in the cube not the thickness of the cube. ie its backwards to the initial thinking.

Mar 31, 2009 | Hoshizaki Freezer Commercial Ice Machines...

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