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Your local machine shop should be able to repair it. There are a few ways to do this depanding on where the crack is located and wheather it goes into the water the oil or the combustion area. Careful welding works pretty well in many cases.To weld, you should grind out some material, maybe1/16 deep and as long as the crack. then preheat gently a good sized area around the crack,maybe 500" .Then DC weld with small nickel rod. Weld a few seconds and wait 20seconds for the heat to disapate. Then repeat 'til the end. Or you can use a wire welder using the same procedure. Another way that has always worked well for me is with tapered cast iron plugs. You drill and tap a hole just past the end of the crack.Then screw one of the tapered plugs in tight with some sealant on the threads. Cut off the plug flush and then drill and tap and plug in a staggered row til you get to the other end. I have done this in-frame on welders and forklift trucks. Google machine shop supplies to find these.They are sold under a few different trade names, Hope this helps, Robert
Hi, this is very easy to do. On the back end of the motor you will see a pair of wires plugged in to each other. Kill the power and just unplug and reverse these wires. This will reverse the rotation of the condenser fan motor. If you have no wires, check for an arrow on the motor housing. It will only go one way if there is one, and you will need to take it back. 2 pair of wires...., just reverse them very easy. Tie or tape them away from the blade.
Compressor relay could be fried. Feel the compressor. If it is too hot to touch then check your relay. The relays contacts could be welded together making bot windings stay powered up and overheating the compressor causing compressor shutdown on overload.
these need a good power supply , i looked and did not see the duty cycle on this welder
if you are doing heavy welding 100% power it will need 30- 40 minutes to cool of to weld again. it all depends on the units duty cycle, stated on the welder spec plate ..can you bypass the auto feed speed mode ? this might be the issue.. good luck ..use all the protection you can when welding these are like the sun and can and will burn exposed skin and eyes .. if'n i was any help throw me a bone and vote thanks jay
Good day, The dryer start switch, starts the motor by bypassing the centrifugal switch built into the motor. Once the motor is running, releasing the switch doesn't matter because the motor gets it's power directly from the timer to the motor thru the centrifugal switch.
Either the switch on the consul has welded the contacts, or the centrifugal switch in the motor has done the same.
To test, unplug, and access the start switch. remove one of the wires from the switch, tape it to prevent shorting, and try the dryer. If it fails to start, then it is the switch. If it still does the same thing as before, it is the centrifugal switch in the motor.