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Faulty kettle the kettle switches off before the water boils I know people have said get your money back but this is Spain.and not an easy thing to do.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Boiling

Purchased at Canadian Tire mid December 07.....great sale....still more than I expected to spend on a kettle. EE and nothing.....same as previous customer comments.

Posted on Feb 28, 2008

jerryg50
  • 1667 Answers

SOURCE: kettle lights but doesn't boil

Most likely the thermo fuse is blown.

You have to take the kettle apart and see the spec for the thermo fuse. You can get these at most any electronics parts supplier for appliances.

To change the thermo fuse you will need the proper crimp type connectors and the crimp tool. This is not able to be soldered. It runs too hot, and soldering in a circuit close to a heating element is not able to be used.

Before changing the thermo fuse, you can test it with an ohm meter. It should typicaly read about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms. The heating element resistance should typicaly read about 8 to 12 ohms.

If the heating element reads below 6 to 7 ohms on a well calibrated ohm meter, or above 15 ohms, it is defective.

If the thermo fuse is blown, the kettle may have been left running when boiled out and over heated, or there is a short in the heating element.

If you feel that you are not comfortable to do this type of repair, it would be best to give the kettle out to an appliance service centre to have it serviced.

When you change the thermo fuse, and if it blows again the heating element is probably damaged. It must be replaced if possible, or if worth the cost.

On the other hand, if the kettle is more than a few years old and you don't want to go to all this trouble, you may want to consider to simply get a new one.

Jerry G.

Posted on Apr 29, 2008

  • 287 Answers

SOURCE: Switches off before full boil

Look under the kettle at the round circular connector in the bottom. Inside there is a small button that is depressed when the kettle is put on the base. If this is not pushed in far enough it will have problems.

The cause is that after some use the connector in the base plate collapses into the base by 1-2 mm This means the switch is not pushed in far enough.

My kettle had similar issues... I pulled the base plate apart (3 screws I think) and cut a round disk of plastic to lift the connector up by about 1-2mm and then reassembled the base.. No more issues

Posted on Jul 08, 2008

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: kettle shuts off before boiling?

I had a similar failure. Switch it on and the lights flicker and go out before it boils. Took it apart (Tamper Proof TORX, available from Snap-On, Canadian Tire, probably most auto parts places that also sell tools). The On-Off switch has a mechanical lock out for the lid being open and also for when it is not mounted on the base. The kettle also has three bi-metallic temperature switches. One shuts off the kettle after it has boiled long enough. The other two sit up against the element assembly adjacent to each end of the heating element.They protect against boiling an empty kettle by sensing the higher element temperture when there is no water to conduct away the heat. In the case where the lights flicker and go out, but the switch stays 'On' these are the likely culprit.
In my kettle the contacts did not line up correctly. Instead of making good contact they were only partially overlapping like a couple of the olympic rings or a couple of rings from the Audi logo. This resulted in a localized increased resistance and high heat in one of the contact holders which eventually melted the surrounding plastic. At that point the wires going to the element behaved a bit like springs which forced the contact holder further out of alignment until it all became hot enough to trigger the thermal switch.
I fixed it by bending the contact holder, which is fused into the now hardened plastic, to the optimal position and hopefully it will not generate enough heat to remelt the plastic or trip the thermal switch.
I have boiled a couple of kettlefuls; so far so good!

What ticks me off about this is that I don't mind getting 'Made In China' ****; everything comes from China anyway. But don't charge me a ridiculous amount of money and try to pretend that I am getting a superiour product. If I had paid twenty dollars or less for it I would just chuck it and get the same one again because it looks nice, pours well, doesn't burn the hands, worked OK for couple of years, etc. Instead I walk away from this feeling really ripped off. I have a house full of Braun products(shaver, kettle multiple tooth brushes) but now I won't buy any more.

Oh and if you take your kettle apart and your house burns down it is not my fault. There, now I feel better.

Posted on Apr 12, 2009

  • 35 Answers

SOURCE: the power switch light on my kettle comes on but

1. Check the continuity on the power switch
2. Check to see if any thermal cut-out is open circuit
3. Check to see if the element has gone open circuit.

Any open circuit indicates the part will require replacing. Given the cost of the kettle, if the element has gone open circuit it may be worth considering replacing the kettle itself.

Posted on Mar 25, 2010

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Kettle shuts off before boiling?


I had a similar failure. Switch it on and the lights flicker and go out before it boils. Took it apart (Tamper Proof TORX, available from Snap-On, Canadian Tire, probably most auto parts places that also sell tools). The On-Off switch has a mechanical lock out for the lid being open and also for when it is not mounted on the base. The kettle also has three bi-metallic temperature switches. One shuts off the kettle after it has boiled long enough. The other two sit up against the element assembly adjacent to each end of the heating element.They protect against boiling an empty kettle by sensing the higher element temperture when there is no water to conduct away the heat. In the case where the lights flicker and go out, but the switch stays 'On' these are the likely culprit.
In my kettle the contacts did not line up correctly. Instead of making good contact they were only partially overlapping like a couple of the olympic rings or a couple of rings from the Audi logo. This resulted in a localized increased resistance and high heat in one of the contact holders which eventually melted the surrounding plastic. At that point the wires going to the element behaved a bit like springs which forced the contact holder further out of alignment until it all became hot enough to trigger the thermal switch.
I fixed it by bending the contact holder, which is fused into the now hardened plastic, to the optimal position and hopefully it will not generate enough heat to remelt the plastic or trip the thermal switch.
I have boiled a couple of kettlefuls; so far so good!

What ticks me off about this is that I don't mind getting 'Made In China' ****; everything comes from China anyway. But don't charge me a ridiculous amount of money and try to pretend that I am getting a superiour product. If I had paid twenty dollars or less for it I would just chuck it and get the same one again because it looks nice, pours well, doesn't burn the hands, worked OK for couple of years, etc. Instead I walk away from this feeling really ripped off. I have a house full of Braun products(shaver, kettle multiple tooth brushes) but now I won't buy any more.

Oh and if you take your kettle apart and your house burns down it is not my fault. There, now I feel better.

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