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Re: central air system notworking
You will need gages and temp meter to add refrigerant plus R22. Flare cap on large is the suction low side line. Put low side gage on there. Start unit .Your suction pressure should read about 70 to 75 if the house is very warm. Add refrigerant until this pressure is reached. You need to read the temp of the large line. It should not be below about 54 degrees. Normally. If you have not done this before be very careful to much freon will damage compressor. You have a leak somewhere if you have to add gas. Make a note of how much you add and when. Gives a base line to go by. Rusty
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the blower unit or air handler is actually blowing air through the ductwork.
Here are the details of what to check in what order if your air condtioner or heat pump doesn't start at all when you set the room thermostat to call for cooling:
Check the Room Thermostat Temperature Setting: Set the thermostat to at least 5 degrees below room temperature. Our elderly mom has no patience with switches and controls. She regularly calls her air conditioning service company with a service request, sometimes late at night, because she has simply failed to set the temperature on the thermostat lower than the room temperature. Don't drive your A/C like our mother.
Check that the Room Thermostat is set to "Cool"not "Off" or "Heat". If the thermostat is not set to "cool" it is simply turning off your A/C. If the thermostat display is blank then it's not receiving power (for modern digital thermostats). Check that electrical power is on at the air handler and to the the low-voltage transformer that supplies power to the thermostat.
If the thermostat has power, check that when you set the thermostat temperature down at least 5 degrees below room temperature the thermostat calls for cooling. If it doesn't then check for broken or shorted thermostat wires anywhere between the wall thermostat and the control board at the air handler.
You can easily eliminate possible thermostat problems as a cause of failure of the air conditioner to start by simply eliminating the thermostat from the picture: disconnect the thermostat wires at the blower unit's control board and instead connect the two thermostat terminals directly together with a jumper wire. If the system starts then the problem is in the thermostat itself or in its wiring.
If the thermostat is working but the compressor condenser unit won't start, you could skip ahead
to COMPRESSOR / CONDENSER DIAGNOSTICSbut I wish you'd double check the remaining steps in this article first because there are some sneaky snafus listed below that might still be the problem.
Check that electricity is on for the equipment. Check all of the electrical switches and controls that can turn electrical power off at the indoor air handler or at the outdoor compressor/condenser unit. There are more of these switches than you might guess. Here's a list of what to check:
Electrical power switches and service switches outside by the compressor, inside at the air handler, and fuses or circuit breakers in the electrical panel. Don't forget to check that the access covers to the equipment are properly closed and latched. Otherwise a BLOWER DOOR SAFETY SWITCH could be keeping the equipment from running.
There are several other safety switches and controls, both manual and automatic that can leave an air conditioner or heat pump turned "off" such as a blower compartment door interlock safety switch, an electric motor overload or overheat switches, and a condensate tray spillage detector switch.
Check the electrical supply voltage. Even if electricity is on, if the supply voltage has fallen too far below the operating voltage range of your air conditioner it's likely that the system will not operate, particlarly, you may note that the compressor motor won't start.
See VOLTS MEASUREMENT METHODS
Actually yes! You can install electric elements in the plenum that turn on by your thermostat. The convection blower from the furnace can be used. You can also install a heat pump system that will give you both heat and air conditioning.
Have to know what kind of heat it is, Gas, Electric or Electric Heat Pump.
Heat pumps, when air over air type, have an extra setting on the thermostat labeled Emergency Heat, Although these thermostats can work on the other types of heating as well.
Both modern Gas and electric furnaces have the blower controlled by a blower board. The flame and or heating elements can also be controlled by the same or a separate board. SO you could have a board problem, or a safety switch or other symptom causing a safety switch to trip off on you.
Consult with your diagram and find something you can recognize then trace the wires down and follow to where you get the power to turn on the heat (usually always R feeds thermostat and W feeds Heat). Colors of the attached wires means nothing at this point. Look for the terminal designations not colors.
Hope this helps you. Please grade me accordingly and GOOD LUCK. :)
the stat works using a bi metalic strip so that click you here is making a contact and telling the boiler to call for heating so if you getting no click you need a new room stat. Replace with same model and note the wiring most stats only use 2/3 wires depending on system