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Kenmore oven shuts off before preheated

I have a Kenmore model 79071363701 gas oven. The oven will no longer come up to temperature. The burner ignites fine and burns for several minutes, then shuts off (I can hear an audible click when it does). It then repeats this cycle indefinitely. The "preheat" light never shuts off. I have already tried replacing the igniter.

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  • 8 Answers

On any gas appliance there is a high and a low limit temp stat which could be indipendant or on the gas valve it's self, that is faulty.
When the oven reaches temp, it cuts out. sounds like faulty over heat stat.

Posted on Mar 22, 2014

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  • Nathan Williamson
    Nathan Williamson Mar 22, 2014

    Would that be the temperature probe?

  • Nathan Williamson
    Nathan Williamson Mar 22, 2014

    In looking at how it is wired, the valve appears to actually be two valves. One of them is wired in series with the igniter and the other I'm not sure. The valves are in series so both must be open it appears. I don't see that the temperature probe is connected there, it must hook to the control panel. So, I think I have two options (since I don't think the valve is faulty): replace the temperature probe, or replace the control panel. Or both. I think I will start with the cheaper probe.

  • Rockingham Plumbing and Gas

    this there a thermo couple or does it ignight automatically?

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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heatman101
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SOURCE: Whirlpool Gold model #GS395LEG oven control panel

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The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


heatman101

Posted on Sep 09, 2010

  • 2287 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Gas Range. Top burners

the ignitor should glow bright orange.it sounds like you have a weak ignitor but if the flame lites within 20 to 30 seconds it sounds like it's ok,it could be braking down though when it gets hot,it doesn't matter if it glows,it has to be putting out 3.2 amps,if you have an amp meter with a clamp on it you can read out the amps,if the broiler works ok i would change out the ignitor,then follow the tube down to the bottom and stick a paper clip in the orifice hole where the gas comes out and make sure that's clear,also there's a shutter on the tube to adjust the air flow,see if it's closed,it's usually almost wide open,check the tube to make sure the ignitor didn't burn a hole through it.i've found tubes with holes in them from a lazy ignitor,most of the time if there's a problem it will be the ignitor

Posted on Jan 23, 2011

richroth
  • 9472 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore gas range model 911.7388811.

The "F5" fault code means a loss of the relay drive circuit. This can be caused by a faulty oven control, oven sensor circuit, lock motor circuit or loose/corroded connections. See image below. You should be able to access the oven control by raising the top and removing the cover from behind the console. The oven temperature sensor connection can likely be check by removing the oven temperature sensor from inside the oven cavity. NOTE: Disconnect the power supply from the range before raising the top and removing the console cover.
richroth_150.jpg

Posted on Aug 16, 2011

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Over-temp condition due to either oven temperature sensor or ERC (electronic range control).
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Start earlier?
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My power went off today and when it came back on, my Kenmore oven shows error code "PF 5 AB". None of the buttons work that I press. Burners turn on, but can't turn on oven. Suggestions?


Could that be PF power failure 5AB in the Sabbath mode. That's a new one.
Your model number is useless. Sears has a big 3 digit product code followed by 8 digits.
But let me dig up my 5AB notes:

Here is what I have:

To
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4. Push the CANCEL pad to confirm your choice.

Other Displays:
When proceeding through steps 1 and 2 in the
Temperature Scale Conversion or in the elimination
of the Sabbath feature /12-hour Shut-off time limit,
two other words can be seen in the display. One is ESC
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Hope this helps
themobilian_1960.jpg

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Model # 36275621302 stove not maintaining proper temperature. Takes long to bake. Broiler comes on ok. Bottom burner gas comes on and ignites in preheat but then the igniter glows hot but the gas doesn't...


The problem is usually the igniter not reaching the correct amp draw .When the igniter does not reach the correct amp draw it may allow the gas valve to partially open or not open at all. The igniters are inexpensive and easy to replace. This video will walk you thru the correct procedure for testing an oven igniter. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

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My Kenmore Elite oven will take over an hour to preheat to 350 degrees and never does get done preheating.


There's a few things that can cause this.

1. Check to see if the both that Bake and Broil elements (burners) are heating up. Check the Broil element in Broil mode.

- during pre-heat the Broil element gets cycled on and off for short time durations to speed up the heating. If the Bake element is not working, then the oven will heat, but very slowly and never reach high temperature.

2. If the elements are both working, then it's possible that you have a bad temperature sensor.

- this is a temperature dependent resistance device that should measure 1080 ohms at 70 deg F (room temp).

3. If #1 and #2 are ok, then the problem is with your oven clock/control unit. We rebuild these at fixyourboard.com.

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Replace the glowbar ignitor in the oven. Turn off the gas supply. Remove the oven racks. Remove the base pan in the oven to access the ignitor. Most plug in. Some have wire nuts.
Your local appliance parts store will need the model number or the ignitor for a correct replacement.

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Shuts off when preheating with F3 or F6 error


The F3 error on this model is an open thermostat circuit. The F6 is a control or loss of power. Make sure the unit is plugged into a good 120 Volt outlet. Test this outlet with a power drill or lamp, wiggle cord in receptacle, if no other test experience or equipment is avaliable. Check the thermostate in the oven for physical damage. There may be a loose connection in the oven. This would require a good technican to find.
InMrFixIt

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