Question about Kitchen Appliances - Others
Hello, my kettle has NEVER given me any problems. Kettle still works. I heated kettle for a number of guests, Then needed to heat again for some more tea... Problem is the base is stuck to the kettle? It can't be placed incorrectly or it doesn't work... Any ideas?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
it is very hard to get rid off ass the sediment comes from the tap water untill you boil the water you dont see this sediment and take it for granted that the water is clean but as soon as you put it in a electric kettle this sediment builds up on the element then it brakes off and floats around in the kettle most new kettles have a filter near the spout so when you pour the water out it traps it in the filter then this can be removed and cleaned but the sediment floating in the kettle is hard to get out you can clean the element and descale it and then just keep pouring water in and out of kettle till its all out but it will soon build up again there are two ways to stop sediment one is filter all the water before putting in kettle but this can be slow process so not worth doing or the best sollution is buy a kettle that has a filter by the spout of the kettle and clean this regularly hope this is some help to you............................................
Posted on Nov 17, 2007
di you try calling GE @ 1800-ge-cares ? dont except much but my parts book only says :PRIVATE BRAND GE , MADE IN CHINA , NO PARTS ORDERED , NO PARTS , 0 IN STOCK ...........
Posted on Feb 20, 2009
My problem was similar for the Cuisinart KUA-17. I clicked down the on switch and it stayed down. However, the light and power together seemed finicky. That is, the light came on if I positioned the kettle in the base correctly, but then it sometimes went off without triggering the switch to pop up. When the light went off while the switch remained down the water never boiled, but when I was lucky to position it such that the light remained on, the water did boil and the switch popped up ... as it should have. It seemed to be getting more and more finicky and difficult to position correctly ... so I took it apart.
First of all, the base has screws that take a triangle screwdriver which I don't have. So I found a small flat-headed screwdriver (like one you'd use for glasses) that just fit along one side of the triangle. I was able to get three base screws out this way and since I expected to need to do this again in the future, I used my dremel to grind a larger flat-headed screwdriver slot in each. It's been about a year and a half since I fixed it last time and this time I was glad I had the slots.
Once you get the plastic base off, you'll see the mechanics of the switch. There are two wires that both turn on the light and power the heater element. Where the wires connect to the switch mechanism, there are two metal tabs that stick out in opposite directions from the center. When the switch is pushed down, you can see these two tabs move. They are each moving to touch a contact and complete the electrical circuit. My problem was they were not making a good contact. The contacts are hidden behind the tabs. All I had to do was bend the contacts one millimeter closer (i.e. as little as possible) so that they would make a good contact. The only other trick was I had to remove the switch mechanism from the bottom of the kettle to do this. Then I just used the same small flat-headed screwdriver to bend the contact as in the picture below.
Posted on Mar 11, 2009
Most likey a burned out heating coil. You can buy them let me know the model number and I can give you a web site to go to buy it.
Posted on Aug 06, 2009
sounds like the element has died. If it's still under warranty, take it back. If it's not under warranty, contact an electrician or appliance repair person. Unless it's an expensive kettle though, it's probably not worthwhile fixing, as elements can sometimes be as expensive as a new kettle
Posted on May 23, 2010
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