Question about GE Washing Machines
I have a GE washer WBSR3140G2WW: It is making a LOUD grinding noise when agitating, I pulled off the front panel and it seems to be grinding on the bottom of the washer, when I lift the basin up with my hands the noise stops, I need to be able to fix this myself as we have very little money to hire someone and I really don't have the money to replace. As far as the washer functionality it washed the clothes with no problem it is just VERY LOUD. If someone could help me I would truly appreciate it. I found a forum post that said it was a sagging apron and to buy a $70 kit to fix it, but when I put my model number in to see if the kit was compatible with my machine it was not.
GE Washing Machine WBSR3140G2WWTroubleshooting Repair Help
Try these links to see if it helps you. I have two that always helps me out. Praying you can fix it. They are really not hard to fix. Just have patience, take your time, be sure the water is turned off, and be sure it is unplugged while working on it.
Posted on Mar 21, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Well, Sounds to me like the Bearings are going out, but it could make that noise a good while, before it goes completely out.. Replacement would possably be more cost effective, Kinda hard to beleive !!!!!!
Posted on Oct 26, 2008
The usual culprit for a washer that will not stop filling is the pressure switch. The switch is located inside the operator console behind the load size, or water level knob (this knob has different names based on the washer model). Before assuming the pressure is defective, however, inspect the pressure switch and ensure the small plastic air hose is still attached to it. It is common for this small air hose to come loose or develop small cracks or breaks. Without the hose installed, the switch cannot detect the appropriate pressure in the wash tub and will not shut off. The result: as washer that continually fills and will overflow. What appears to be a significant problem may only be a loose hose and few minutes of your time. Please inspect the switch, check the entire length of the hose for cracks and make sure the electrical connection(s) are intact and not corroded, then get back to me. I hope this helps you.
PS Make sure you UNPLUG the washer before servicing!
Posted on Dec 20, 2008
I have the same problem, loud plastic squeak/grind when agitating only. I'd like to fix it, but have never taken apart a washing machine.
The advice below sounds good but where do you start with "begin dissassembly from the tub down"....etc. Anyone have a good internet resource with images for disassembling this machine?
Posted on Mar 16, 2008
Hello Friend, Your solution is a real quick fix. The problem you are having is very common, your motor coupling has broken and that is what's making the grinding sound, also in this condition it will always pump out the water. Go to your local appliance parts store and purchase a new motor coupler, your cost should be under $25. It's very simple to remove old and install new coupler. First remove two screws from control panel and tilt control panel backwords exposing area under panel. You will see a metal clip on each side of cabinet under panel. Remove these clips, and unplug wires from plug in on cabinet. Remove cabinet by lifting up in back and tilting forward. Once removed you will see the innerworkings of your washer. Lay washer on it's back and remove the two spring clips that hold water pump in place and remove water pump. Leave water pump hooked up just move to side out of your way. Then you will remove the two screws that hold the motor clips in place and just snap the motor clips off. Be sure to unplug the wire harness plug from the motor. Just simply lift the motor straight up and off of the transmission. There you will see the motor coupler broken and to replace, just pry old one off transmission and motor with large flat head screwdriver. You will notice that one half of coupler is attached to the motor and the other to transmission. In the coupler kit you will receive both pieces and the rubber center connector. Just replace all the old with all the new and your problem will be solved. Happy to help, Tim.
Posted on Jun 24, 2009
I believe you must have one of the bottom of the line cheapo washers, as I do--the one with the plastic, rather than steel wash tub and basket? These are pretty poor machines. They cut corners drastically in every part of the design. I've replaced the aluminum hub that supports the spin basket ( the hub is bare aluminum and corrodes within about 5 years use from the highly alkaline detergent, then it fractures under mechanical stress. Then the motor burned out. I was able to get a nearly new motor on ebay for $90 incl. shipping. (BTW, if you need appliance parts try GOOD Appliance on ebay for new and salvaged parts--they're excellent! 100% feedback rating) However, I now have the same problem--a fairly loud knocking noise during the agitation phases of the cycle. This is cause by a really crappy transmission design that does not wear well. My advice is just ignore it as long as it works and isn't leaking oil and the tub seal is still good. If it does finally go to pieces get one on ebay--that is if you feel up to doing the job yourself since a repair person would charge more than it's worth to install it. I believe new ones can be had on ebay for about $80, some are sold with seal kits. Bottom line is--if you want a machine that will last you for 15-20 years--don't buy a cheapo model. The front loaders are better as they use far less hot water (energy and water savings) but a good one is going to be anywhere from about $800 to $1600.
Posted on Sep 17, 2009
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