Question about Pacific International Pacific Evolution Men's Mountain Bike 26" 18 Speed

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Rear hub assembly pacific evolution

Chain still moves, gears shift properly, however the chain moving does not move the wheel itself. Have been informed this is a freehub issue, however being a single mom with limited income to begin with do not have the funding to take to a bike shop. Any links to diagrams, etc., would be greatly appreciated.

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  • 368 Answers

Unfortunately, there is only one last ditch effort to free up that freewheel. The following link takes you to a very simplified diagram of how a freewheel works : File Roue libre cliquet svg
What's happening in your instance is that the pawl, colored red, is not engaging the outer teeth, possibly due to corrosion, or age. What you can do is use a penetrating oil to get inside the mechanism to try to free it up. In the following link, you will see a freewheel that is most likely similar to yours: Shimano Hyperglide Freewheel
You want to add oil to the edge of that inner ring that says "Shimano" (yours may not say that), while spinning the cranks to draw the oil in. Hopefully, after a while, and maybe a lot of oil, the pawls will free up and start catching.

Good luck!

Posted on Mar 22, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

ftw1952
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SOURCE: mongoose tactic mountain bike / loose crank on

The crank has to be removed to tighten the nut that holds the gear on. I assume that is your problem is with the chain gear on the sproket that is loose

Posted on Apr 21, 2010

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dunnbiker
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SOURCE: How do you adjust the

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/derailleur-systems

Posted on May 22, 2011

  • 368 Answers

SOURCE: The chain is broken off

The chain goes from the top of the front sprocket to the top of the rear sprockets, between the rear sprocket and the top derailleur wheel and then between the upper and lower derailleur wheels. It then goes forward toward the front sprocket. The text sketch below shows the rear sprocket, chain and derailleur.I hope this helps.


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Posted on Aug 16, 2011

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the derailleur cable is too loose. Shift the shifter into the smallest cog, make sure the chain is on the smallest cog. The derailleur cable will most likely be very slack now. At the rear derailleur, there will be a nut or a allen bolt pinching the cable to the derailleur. loosen this, pull the cable finger tight, tighten the nut or bolt again and then try shifting again. You can dial it in using the barrel adjuster on the derailleur or the shifter.

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Cannot get rear derailer to work properly 24 inch girls evolution


Don't start messing with the derailleur yet! Make sure your shifting trouble isn't due to something else, such as a warped, dirty, or stretched chain, gummed-up pulleys, crud in the cable housing, trapped cable, or a bent derailleur hanger
Clean the chain and the rear derailleur pulleys. Pull the chain away from each pulley, and turn the pulley to make sure it can move freely. A pulley that offers resistance to turning must be replaced.
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Let the high-gear limit screw. In your highest gear on the shifter, and with the chain on the smallest cog, position the derailleur so the upper pulley exactly matches the teeth of the small cog. Run the chain a bit with the front derailleur in the large ring, adjusting the limit screw until the pulley and the cog seem to match perfectly.

Setting the high-gear (small cog) limiting screw.



Once you're sure the derailleur matches the cog, move it just a whisker (1/8 to 1/4 turn) towards the other cogs. (You may need to readjust a bit if you get chain-skip.)

Closeup of setting the limiting screw.



Now adjust the low-gear limit screw. Shift into the lowest gear (largest cog). If it won't go, loosen the limit screw. With the chain on the largest cog (and the front derailleur in the small chainring), adjust the derailleur so the upper pulley exactly matches the teeth of the large cog.Once it's perfect, turn the limit screw so it moves the derailleur a tiny amount towards the other cogs (1/8 to 1/4 turn usually works).

Setting the low-gear (largest cog) limiting screw.



Now shift to the highest gear (smallest cog). Push the shift lever to downshift one gear (go from the smallest cog to the next-smallest). If it doesn't shift, tighten the cable with the barrel adjuster, 1/2 turn counter-clockwise. Backshift and try again. Continue tightening until it shifts. If it overshifts, going from the smallest cog to the third-smallest, loosen the cable by turning 1/2 turn clockwise. Backshift and repeat until it shifts exactly from the small to the next-smallest cog.

Fine adjustment of tension in the derailleur cable.





Now go to the second-smallest ring. Tighten or loosen the cable slightly, until the outer side plates of the chain are just clearing the third-smallest cog. Shift up and down, fine-tuning until you're satisfied.

Checking the position of the chain on the cogs.





Mar 04, 2011 | Pacific International Pacific Evolution 24...

1 Answer

Won't just stay in one gear. constantly doing gear changes on its own. Hardrock. Rear set, reguardless of which front gear.


This happens when the back wheel is not aligned properly with the chain. As the wheel turns the chain is being pulled to one side causing it to slip to the next set of cogs. To solve the problem first you need to loosen the wheel by opening the 2 nuts on the axel. If the chain slips inwards towards the wheel you need to move the front part of the back wheel to the left from a view point behind the bike. If it slips outwards away from the wheel then you need to move the front of the back wheel to the right as viewed from behind the bike. When the chain and cogs of the rear wheel are lined up in a straight line the problem should be solved.

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You will need to raise the back wheel to perform these adjustments... so that you can activate the pedals and oberve closely the functioning, as you adjust....

On the tube mounting: The derailleur needs to just clear the teeth of the front chain wheels, as it moves from one to the other. It needs to be square with the chain wheels.

The other adjustments are limiting in nature. You need the derailleur to not move the chain off of the outside of either front chain wheel. as you get closer, move the rear derailleur to extremes and then shift the front derailleur, slow and fast..... Limit is correct when you can move the derailleur so as to not ride on the chain, but not throw the chain off the wheels.

Sometimes, guys turn the front derailleur, slightly so that the last portion of the derailleur body gives the chain a little boost to the bigger gear...This is just a very small amount. Sometimes it just works better that way.

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I had to take off the rear weel of my falcon apache mountain bike to get it in my car o travel from my grandparens home to mine but i cant get the back weel gear arm back on. how do i do this??


By the "gear arm" I assume you mean that part of the rear derailer that the chain zig-zags through. This arm moves in two ways. It moves in and out (toward the wheel and away) as you move the shift lever - which is how it changes gears, by moving the chain onto different sprockets (gears). It also moves forward and back (toward the front and back of the bike) under spring pressure. This forward and back motion is necessary to take up the slack in the chain when you are using the smaller sprockets (the smaller the sprocket, the "higher" the gear). When the wheel has been removed, this arm moves forward (under spring pressure) as far as it can to take up all of the slack in the chain. All you have to do is grasp this lever and pull it toward the back of the bike, allowing the lever and the chain to pass behind the sprockets (gears) as you pull the wheel back into it's position. You can safely pull this arm forward and back at any time without doing any damage. One more tip-- I find it a little easier if you first put the shift lever in a "middle" gear position. Then when you pull the wheel into place, you should aim to put the chain on a middle sprocket. You don't have to hit the exact correct sprocket as you can simply lift the rear wheel and turn the pedals forward (after installing the wheel) and the chain will move to the correct sprocket corresponding to the setting on the shift lever.
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