During cycle water does not drain, but continues to fill until water gets above door and forces bottom of door out and water leaks out. No error codes appear. Have replaced drain pump motor and problem persists.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Alarm code Description of fault User code Effect E11 Problems with water fill in wash phase E10 Cycle PAUSED 8.2 E12 Problems with water fill in drying E10 Cycle PAUSED 8.3 E21 Problems with water drain in wash phase E20 Cycle PAUSED 8.4 E22 Problems with water drain during drying or drying condenser blocked E20 Heating phase skipped 8.5 E31 Analogic (electronic) pressure switch circuit faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.6 E32 Incorrect calibration of analogic (electronic) pressure switch --- Cycle PAUSED 8.7 E33 Incongruency between level of analogic (electronic) pressure switch and level of anti-boiling pressure switch 1 --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.8 E34 Incongruency between level of electronic pressure switch and level of anti-boiling pressure switch 2 --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.9 E35 Water level too high --- Cycle blocked with door closed and water drain 8.10 E36 "Sensing" circuit of anti-boiling pressure switch 1 faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.11 E37 "Sensing" circuit of anti-boiling pressure switch 2 faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.11 E38 Pressure chamber blocked --- Heating phase skipped 8.12 E41 Door open E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.13-14 E42 Problems with door closure E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.15-16 E43 TRIAC which powers the door interlock faulty E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.17-18 E44 "Sensing" circuit of door delay interlock faulty --- Cycle blocked 8.19 E45 "Sensing" circuit of door delay interlock triac faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.19 E51 TRIAC which powers the motor short-circuited --- Cycle blocked with door closed (after 5 attempts) 8.20 E52 No signal from tachometric generator --- Cycle blocked with door closed (after 5 attempts) 8.21-22 E53 "Sensing" circuit of motor TRIAC faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.23 E54 Relays (motor) contacts faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed (after 5 attempts) 8.23 E61 Insufficient heating during washing --- Heating phase skipped 8.24 E62 Overheating during washing --- Drain, end of cycle 8.25 E63 Insufficient heating during drying Heating phase skipped 8.26 E64 Overheating during drying --- Heating phase skipped 8.27 E66 Power relay to heating element faulty --- Drain, end of cycle 8.28 E71 NTC wash sensor faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.29 E72 NTC sensor on drying condenser faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.30 E73 NTC sensor on drying duct faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.31 E84 "Sensing" circuit on circulation pump triac faulty --- Drain, end of cycle (door open) 8.32 E85 Circulation pump faulty --- Drain, end of cycle (door open) 8.33 E91 Communications error between main PCB and user interface --- --- 8.34 E93 Configuration error E90 Cycle blocked 8.34 E94 Incorrect configuration of washing cycle E90 Cycle blocked 8.34 EF1 Drain filter blocked LED-EF0 --- 8.35 EF2 Excessive detergent LED-EF0 --- 8.35 Regards David Marsh
A-- If you hear the water filling for 3 minutes before the lights flash, 2 things could be happening:
a.1) water never reached the proper fill/run level so the computer prevents the heater from starting and alerts the user. There should be a code list in the troubleshooting section of the user manual describing the blinking lights and what they mean.
Solution- verify by sound if water flows at the same rate as the sink tap, if not then shut off the water and check the inside the connection hose for debris against the screen inside the hose end or insid ethe machine end where there is a intake valve. The debris keeps sediment out so it works but there's no auto cleaner for the screen.
a.2) Otherwise the heater itself is faulty meaning it does not conduct an electrical path or maybe overheating (could be dry) and the computer senses the wrong temperature either too high or too low.
Solution- A service call to determine the reason why; heater continuity, water valve, heater relay, hi-temp fuse, etc.
B-- Now, if you do NOT hear water filling for those first 3 minutes, 3 things could be happening;
b.1) House water supply is turned off. b.2) hose is clogged (see solution a.1 above) b.3) Drain pump inside dishwasher was clogged during the last run and old water didn't drain out (maybe some water is evident in the tub bottom). Solution- Most dishwashers start each wash cycle with 30 second drain pump running to make sure the tub is completely emptied so the next fill cycle can't overfill. This ensures that if the user finds a 3 liter pot that flipped over during the last wash and if they dump that full pot of water into the unit to make it lighter, that the water will get drained before the new water enters the tub. If the drain pump is clogged reset the power and restart the wash cycle. Note how much water is in the tub and see if it goes down any during those 30 seconds by opening the door afterwards. Find the clog either a bone or plastic bag or some small pice of a childs toy is stuck in the drain pump or the other end is clogged maybe by grease or bones if you have a sink disposal unit. The things they grind up drop into the drain 1" inch above the hole for the dishwasher drain tube.
NOTE: There is also an overfill [float] switch if the water inlet valve gets stuck open and the water keeps filling, the drain pump is switched on until someone comes and shuts off the water supply. When the tub drains the float drops and the drainpump stops. This will also make lights blink so check the user manual for codes or call the factory service reps [1-877-337-3639].
Either way, there should be instructions to reset the machine for restart. If it doesn't reset you need someone to fix the control that tripped the unit, maybe a safety fuse or a broken piece of the puzzle.
The bosch dishwashers use a fill valve that is attatched to the inlet hose. yours is stuck in the open position. this usually happens when you have hard water, as the minerals build up on the sealing surface of the water valve. there is no easy fix. the fill hose will have to be replaced. It requires removing the machine, removing the bottom pan, and changing the hose connections.
the valve uses water pressure to stay closed. if the water pressure is very low coming in, it may not be enough to close the valve. there is a filter screen between the fill hose, and where it connects to your water valve. try cleaning the filter out and see if that makes a difference. If not, you will have to get the hose changed.
Your drain hose needs to have the "curved" part above the level of the basket top. Otherwise, water will continually run out (usually onto the floor).
Some models have a stand alone water pump that is turned on to drain the washer. The timer (during drain, spin, etc cycles) turns this pump on and off. If your hose is inserted into the stand pipe as it should be, then the water pump being turned on is likely the problem.
Since you aren't mentioning that water is all over your floor, I think that a loose / torn hose can be ruled out as well. You need another timer switch assembly.
Water siphoning out the drain line If the water is
continues to fill and water is draining while it is filling or
agitating, Check the height of the stand pipe. It should be about 36"
above the floor. If the height is correct it may need to have an
anti-siphoning valve installed into the drain line. The washer fills and drains at the same time only on the rinse cycle. Shut the machine off
with timer during this period and raise the drain hose. If the water
continues to drain, you will need to install an anti-siphon kit.
The drain hose needs to be lifted above the high fill level in washer.The easiest way to fix this is take the drain hose (if your drain hose starts from the bottom of machine and goes up)tie or strap it to the back of the washer so it cant sag or drop down and start syphoning the water.Remember the washer will drain out the water if the drain hose is lower than the amount of water in the tub.Thats why your making sure by tieing the drain hose to the highest point before it makes it way to the drain .
Typically the machine only uses 5-6 quarts of water, If you're floor is getting 1 or 2 quarts check for a loosly connected intake or drain hose. I've never seen any overflow drain on a Miele. It only fills the bottom of the tub. The machine uses a logic program that continuously checks the level of fill and drain by water pressure weight so it always runs with proper amount, even if your intake pressure is weak. Now, If you add too much soap then the bubbles can carry a few ounces over a worn door seal. If the seal is damaged then more spray arm water can run down the front of the machine into the float pan. But after it gets less than a pint of water the drain float will start thr drain pump and shut-off the machine controls and alert you. It won't let you run the machine until the water ( and the problem) is gone. Call Miele for help.