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Hi, The description you have provided looks like it going to be a thermal limit switch that is bad (some of them are resettable). You need to remove the control board display. Once behind there you will see 2 limit switches. Try to test both of them with an ohms meter. Both should read infinite but I am sure one is bad. Here is a link to a schematic that may help you find the limits. The part numbers you are looking for is 158 and 159.http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=216517&diagram_id=21205724#d21205724. Let us know if you were looking for something more else please accept the suggestion. Thank You for contacting Fixya.com
There is no generic Horizontal Transistor for all Sony Televisions. Having repaired many different tyupes of sets over the years, the only thing that will help you is a set of schematics, and the model numbers on the transistor. You will need the schematics to find/check the other components in the display circuit that may also be bad. Very rarely did I just need to replace a HT without other power supply components as well.
Nowadays, it really does not pay to bother opening most CRT sets anymore. If you can get the schematics, you usually spend $25-$35 just on those, before you get into the actual repair.
That's common for the burners to work since they & ignightors have nothing to do with the control board. The oven light is also run by the control board. Before replacing the control board, make sure you have both phases of the power coming in. One 1/2 of the 220 operates the burners and the other phase is the power to the controller. The controller then put both phases on the heating elements. There should be a tech sheet and schematic on the back of the stove or under the hood where the controller is. Good luck
Depending on how the element blew, in some cases it will also ruin the Electronic Oven Control (EOC) board. This is your clock assembly. The EOC controls all the oven functions on electric ranges. There are separate relay controlled circuits on the board that control the BAKE and BROIL functions. The EOC will still display the time and the broiler may still work, but the bake feature will not. My bet, it the relay for the bake element, or a component in the bake circuit is blown. There should be a schematic diagram located inside the operator console, or on the back of the range for assistance in troubleshooting. I would recommend you inspect the EOC for any burned components or wires.
Now...there is a remote possibility you've purchased a bad element (it does happen). A resistance check from terminal to terminal should yield a high resistance in the K ohms range. Next, check the resistance between one terminal and the outer shield of the element. You should get an infinite reading. Anything else, you probably have an element that is shorted.
I hope this information is helpful to you in some way. If you have questions please let me know.
Bad components in the horizontial/vertical output. High voltage (flyback), even a bad relay or weak component. These 'steady' failures are often thermal problems as some components fail, they work when cold, turn them on, they heat up, they fail, they cool off, they work. You can pinpoint with some cold spray. When it fails hit the chip or component you suspect with the spray, if it comes right back. Thats your circuit.
even if the ingitor glows, and the oven wont lite, the odds are that the ingitor is bad. it must draw 3.2 amps to open the gas valve. the only way to test the ignitor is with an amp probe.
replacing the ingnitor is about 90% a sure thing.