Question about Freezers
I have a frost free hisense HR6VFF177A,its is all ice up. Had a power cut last Saturday due to storm and all my meat is staring to faw out. Could it be my fuse and if it is where on my freezer is it.
If it's iced up it's not the fuse. It needs defrosting so the air can flow again and refreeze your stock
Check the thermistor, heater and pcb timer, and clean the condenser to check it's not running all the time just to get to set temperature.
Posted on Apr 28, 2014
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The drain has most likely frozen over. It is at the bottom behind the back panel inside the freezer. You will need to remove all of the ice and run hot water down the drain until it is clear.
Posted on Nov 16, 2007
I'm not sure if this will help but the freezer that is located on the bottom of my refrigerator started forming ice on the back part where the cold air was supposed to be coming out. I kept hearing a hissing sound like water dripping on a hot surface. I called the repair man in and he had to replace the defrost timer. Once he did that it worked like a charm.
I am not an expert by any means although removing ice from a frost-free freezer is a pain and this took care of the problem for me. Good luck!
Posted on Apr 08, 2009
Sorry I don't have a solution for you, however would like to know if you found out what was wrong. I have an identical problem with my Beko fridge/freezer. It's only 14 months old and the freezer just wont freeze. I've turn it off for 24 hour and let it defrost completely (even had the panel off to make sure there was no ice left). I've turned it back on again and it still wont freeze. Everything seems ok, ie fan blowing, motor running etc. I really am beginning to regret buying Beko. thanks
Posted on Jul 01, 2009
Frost Free Freezer have an automatic defrost, which is essentially a heating element which melts any ice. If your door seals are in poor condition or something is preventing the door from sealing the ambient air may be melting the ice more than the drain can accommodate. Check the drain in the bottom of the freezer. Humidity can also cause more water to accumulate, especially if the door seals are not sealing.
Posted on Jul 11, 2009
I have the same
model + problem. You should not need
to defrost this model manually if it's working correctly, but the ice build up you
describe is probably due to a blocked
pipe in the auto-defrost system at the back. You need to defrost properly to
Behind the upper freezer drawer there's an aluminium tray behind a plastic grille. Every few days this tray warms up to melt any accumulated ice behind this plastic grille (full height of the freezer). A pipe should take the meltwater down to a plastic tray below (pipe + plastic tray are visible if you take the lower panel off the back). Your problem is too much ice blocking that pipe: the heater can't cope and it doesn't melt, so the ice 'cascades' down the back behind the bottom drawer.
When you manually defrost, you must ensure that this pipe is clear, otherwise the auto-defrost won't work, and you may have to defrost manually again within days.
I have found that the best way to defrost the pipe is to remove the lower back panel, disconnect the corrugated flexible plastic pipe from the stub that comes from the bottom of the freezer, + pump steam into the stub (gently) using a hand-held steamer (with tube + nozzle). You don't have to empty the freezer or move your food as the door stays closed, and no steam gets into the freezer until the pipe is unblocked. Be sure to unplug the freezer before taking the back off! [There is a fan in this area that could start up without warning]
Check how much of the pipe is blocked by gentle probing with a pencil: the aluminium tray is about 105mm above the bottom of the stub. This measurement is important…
When the pipe is clear, there may still be too much ice in the aluminium tray above (not sure how much is 'too much') if you only created a narrow 'chimney' though the block of ice (likely to get blocked again). You need to widen that chimney by melting more of the ice in the aluminium tray. I use a simple steam nozzle made from an old-fashioned Bic pen with a couple of 1mm holes drilled just below the coloured bung at the end. This directs steam onto the walls of the 'chimney' rather than upwards.
There's no point steaming the walls of the plastic 'stub' pipe, so only use the home-made nozzle when your probe reaches 105mm (i.e. when you have melted all the ice in the plastic stub tube but before your 'chimney' has broken through the block of ice in the aluminium tray). If you judge this right, you'll melt almost all of the ice under a still-frozen top surface: no steam will get into the freezer and your food will stay frozen. With a probe it will be clear when you've broken through the top surface of the ice. When you have done so, it's time to look inside the freezer to see how well you have cleared the aluminium tray.
It's perfectly feasible to get all this done in 30 minutes.
Don't forget to replace the corrugated plastic pipe + valve at the bottom. It stops humid air from going into the freezer and icing up in exactly the area we've just been defrosting.
Take a lot of care with steam jets as they can burn you badly. You should check a first aid website so you know what to do BEFORE it happens.
Some of these tips may be helpful: (1) run the freezer at -18 degrees (the 'warmest' setting) so it's not working so hard. (2) Leave a big gap (>100mm) between the back of the freezer and the wall. (3) Clean the matrix of delicate tubes to the left of the fan whilst you have the back off [a small bottle brush is ideal; remove the fan for better access]. (4) Put something between the middle of the freezer and the wall to prevent the warm air that's being blown out behind the fridge from being sucked into the air intake behind the freezer (there is a baffle built in underneath, but nothing behind. (5) Mount the fan on spacers (with longer screws) so that it's closer to the heat exchanger… this means that a larger area of grille can act as an air intake. (6) Raise the unit off the floor a little to free up the air intake path beneath the freezer.
Posted on May 10, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Hello Yellow, thank you for your post!
I understand that your Frigidaire freezer is dripping water out of the corner of the door. It is possible that with your power going out the heat may have caused the gasket to warp. Do you see any frost build-up? The water that is dripping could be coming from condensation within the freezer. I would recommend checking the gasket to see if it is allowing warm air to enter the freezer.
I recommend that you visually inspect the door gasket for defects such as gaps or tears. You can also use a dollar bill to test the door gasket. Place a dollar bill in between the door and the body of the freezer. If the dollar bill pulls out with no to little resistance, you may need to replace the door gasket. A faulty door gasket can allow warm air to enter the compartment and cause frost to condensation or a leak. I hope this information is helpful. -Matt
Sep 01, 2015 | Frigidaire 13.7 cu. ft. / 388 liter...
May 18, 2015 | Arctic Air 22 cu. ft. Commercial Freezer...
Aug 22, 2010 | Kenmore Freezer 20.3 cu. ft. Frost Free...
Sep 29, 2009 | Freezers
Aug 01, 2009 | Freezers
Feb 01, 2009 | Kenmore Freezer 20.3 cu. ft. Frost Free...
Dec 30, 2008 | Freezers
Sep 09, 2008 | Kenmore Freezer 20.3 cu. ft. Frost Free...
Jul 13, 2007 | Frost Freezer WCWO F15WA FREE - POCKET...
98 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: