Question about Viking VGBQ410-3RT Grill

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Ignition "clickers" and interior lights all not working. Outlet has power but not juice getting to the electronic components.

Had my electrician come out and the outlet has 120 volts so something is wrong with the unit. It has tripped the GFI a few times over the years, but that was remedied by resetting it.

Posted by Anonymous on

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1462 Answers

SOURCE: Refrigerator trips GFI outlet

unlikely to be the defrost timer. more likely to be the defrost element. try disconnecting the element and see if it trips then. could be of course a wiring fault - frayed wires etc

Posted on Jun 19, 2007

  • 20 Answers

SOURCE: My 48" Viking Range top trips the GFI

One leg of the power is "dead shorted" to ground. Use a Multimeter and start looking/testing to determine which component is bad.

Posted on Sep 01, 2009

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: unit has no power.

Hi,


Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with your Microwave Oven....

Basic
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heatman101

Posted on Feb 15, 2011

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Have you tried different electrical outlets? Maybe the circuit breaker for your particular outlet blew when the electrician turned the power back on. Or maybe the electrician disconnected power to that particular outlet.

Also try leaving tv unplugged for 30 minutes or so, then plugging back in [to a known good outlet] to see if it will turn on.

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Our electricity went out for a few minutes, and since then the TV will not turn on. The green light is flashing. We tried resetting it by pushing a pen point into the reset hole, but it does nothing. ...


Your power outage may have been caused by a nearby lightning strike, or any number of
1000 different reasons that cause power surges, brown-outs, voltage spikes, inductive loading,
and/or utility pole breaker trips and resets (this accounts for your power loss (a pole breaker trip),
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Whenever a power outage occurs, quickly power off (or better, unplug) any/all computers, TVs,
etc. that are not protected by surge-protection.
As an electrician, when someone loses an item of electronics concommitant to an electrical
anomaly, its almost
always traceable to a nearby lightning strike (or the power company provided equivalent), accompanied by inadequate surge protection for
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Surge protection can
be provided by the consumer at the power strip (a good one with builtin MOV protection and a
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Your electrician can provide whole-house surge protection where a whole-house MOV-based (metal oxide varistor) surge protector, or per-circuit protection can be installed with
a GFCI breaker (or better, an AFCI breaker) can be installed.
GFCI = ground fault circuit interruptor
AFCI = Arc fault circuit interruptor
Lightning protection is especially important in Florida, which is the "lightning capital of the world."
I've never found a good solution to lightning-fried electronics (random power supply components are destroyed and/or fuse blown), other than renters insurance or homeowners insurance.

Your only real hope for an economical fix is to look for a blown fuse, and replace it.

If desperate to attempt a fix on your own, you could try replacing the entire TV power supply as a module, but even this provides
no guarantee of a fix - lightning damage can extend beyond the power supply.
When traveling, I will always unplug everything before I leave (except the security system),
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always traceable to a nearby lightning strike, accompanied by inadequate surge protection for
the VCR/TV/Computer/Stereo/uninsured valuable electronic item/XBOX 360. Surge protection can
be provided by the consumer at the power strip (a good one with builtin protection and a
warranty costs $20, whereas a zero-protection 4-outlet or 6-outlet power strip will cost $4-$5).
Your electrician can provide whole-house protection, or per-circuit protection at
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Lightning protection is especially important in Florida, which is the "lightning capital of the world."
I've never found a good solution to lightning-fried electronics (random power supply components are destroyed), other than renters insurance or homeowners insurance.
The converter box may be replaced by DirecTV, you'd have to contact their customer
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no guarantee of a fix - lightning damage can extend beyond the power supply.
When traveling, I will always unplug everything before I leave (except the security system),
and also turn off the breakers to unneeded house circuits (which kills the wall switches that
control interior lighting - forcing a burglar to use their flashlight instead of interior lighting)
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As an electrician, when someone loses more then 1 item of electronics in 1 day, its almost
always traceable to a nearby lightning strike, accompanied by a lack of surge protection for
the VCR/TV/Computer/Stereo/uninsured valuable electronic item/XBOX 360. Surge protection can
be provided by the consumer at the power strip (a good one with builtin protection and a
warranty costs $20, whereas a zero-protection 4-outlet or 6-outlet power strip will cost $4-$5).
Your electrician can provide whole-house protection, or per-circuit protection at
the breaker box, where a GFCI breaker (or better, an AFCI breaker) can be installed.
GFCI = ground fault circuit interruptor
AFCI = Arc fault circuit interruptor
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I've never found a good solution to lightning-fried electronics (random power supply components are destroyed), other than renters insurance or homeowners insurance.
If desperate, you could try replacing the entire power supply as a module, but even this provides
no guarantee of a fix - lightning damage can extend beyond the power supply.
When traveling, I will always unplug everything before I leave (except the security system),
and also turn off the breakers to unneeded house circuits (which kills the wall switches that
control interior lighting - forcing a burglar to use their flashlight instead of interior lighting)
which is the least convenient lightning protection, but highly effective, and cheap (free).

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