Question about Magic Chef CMV1000B Microwave Oven

1 Answer

Unit turned on by itself with no touchpad control.

Recycled power and it returned to normal for a short time then problem came back. No control, no vent, no light. Occasionally everything ok for a short period of time then symptoms returned.
This morning it lost power; the display is blank.

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  • mcook30512 Jun 16, 2009

    My unit is a Magic Chef Model MCO160UW.
    A couple of days ago it turned itself on. At that time there was no response from the control buttons. I had to open the door to make it stop.
    The display panel was frozen. I could not turn on the over-the-range fan nor the lights.

    After I recycled power, it appeared to be normal for a few minutes, then the display again went blank with no button response. The oven turned on by itself a short time later.

    I have left the power turned off, as this is an obvious safety hazard.

    I think this is either a power supply problem or a control board problem. I have seen a replacement control PSU somewhere on line for about $250, but as the microwave cost less than that, it seems pointless to try and replace the board.

  • William Miller
    William Miller May 11, 2010

    Please reply back with your brand and model number so we can help you.

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  • Magic Chef Master
  • 9,047 Answers

HTML clipboardYou have a shorting membrane keypad. If and when an oven is coming on or doing anything by itself, this is very dangerous and can result in a fire.

So until it is repaired, please leave it unplugged or leave the door open when it's not in use, and please do not leave it running unattended.

If you (or someone you know) might want to replace it yourself, I have uploaded a handy guide with pictures showing you what's typically involved.

You can order parts here. You have to search by model, then look for the "switch membrane". It's part number 3518572100W.

In this case, you simply move your circuit board into the new frame. That is a simple do-it-yourself job.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you would like to have us do this repair for you, we do that for $39.95 plus part costs & shipping ($45.85) for a total of $85.90.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

HTML clipboardWilliam E. Miller, AS-EET
prototech@usa.net
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

Posted on Jun 16, 2009

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Ge jnm1541sn1ss


please do these test and fix it. God bless you
  1. Controller is confused A power surge or random non-reproducible action of the universe may have resulted in the controller's program ending up in an infinite loop. Pull the plug for a minute or two to reset it.
  2. Defective Interlock switches This can result in the controller thinking the door is open and ignoring you.
  3. Cleaning Cleaning solutions (spray cleaner) may have gotten inside and shorted out the touchpad or controller. If this happens remove the touchpad, let it air dry for a few days, and then attach it back on the microwave.

Dec 12, 2013 | Microwave Ovens

Tip

Troubleshooting Guide


  • Problem: Totally dead oven.
    Possible causes:
    1. No power to outlet (blown fuse or tripped breaker or GFCI).
    2. Blown main fuse - likely due to other problems.
    3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
    4. Defective controller or its power supply.
    5. Clock needs to be set before other functions will operate (some models).

  • Problem: Totally dead oven after repair.
    Possible causes:
    1. Cabinet screws replaced in incorrect location (safety interlock not engaged).
    2. Any number of screwups. :)

  • Problem: No response to any buttons on touchpad.
    Possible causes:
    1. Door is not closed (some models).
    2. You waited to long (open and close door to wake it up).
    3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    4. Defective interlock switches.
    5. Faulty controller or its power supply.
    6. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    7. Defective/damaged touchpad.

  • Problem: Oven runs when door is still open.
    Possible causes:
    1. Damaged interlock assembly.
    2. Cooling fans (only) running due to bad sensor or still warm.

  • Problem: Oven starts on its own as soon as door is closed.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective triac or relay.
    2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    3. Defective controller or its power supply.
    4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    5. Defective/damaged touchpad.

  • Problem: Oven works but display is blank.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective controller or its power supply.
    2. Broken display panel.
    3. Oven needs to be reset (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).

  • Problem: Whacked out controller or incorrect operation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
    2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    3. Defective controller or its power supply.
    4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    5. Defective/damaged touchpad.
    6. Defective sensor (particulalry covection/mirowave combos).

  • Problem: Erratic behavior.
    Possible causes:
    1. Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
    2. Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
    3. Faulty relay - primary (or HV side, much less commonly used).
    4. Defective controller or its power supply.
    5. Bad contacts/connections on mechanical timers. Intermittent fuse.
    6. Power surge at start of cook cycle confusing controller.
    7. Microwave (RF) leakage into electronics bay.

  • Problem: Some keys on the touchpad do not function or perform the wrong action.
    Possible causes:
    1. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    2. Defective/damaged touchpad.
    3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    4. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Microwave oven does not respond to START button.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective START button.
    2. Faulty interlock switches.
    3. Door is not securely closed.
    4. Faulty controller.
    5. You waited too long - open and close door to wake it up!

  • Problem: No heat but otherwise normal operation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Blown fuse in HV transformer primary circuit or HV fuse (if used).
    2. Bad connections (particularly to magnetron filament).
    3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
    4. Open HV capacitor, HV diode, HV transformer, or magnetron filament.
    5. Shorted HV diode, HV capacitor (will blow a fuse), or magnetron.
    6. Defective HV relay (not commonly used).

  • Problem: Timer and light work but no heat, cooling fan, or turntable rotation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective (lower) door interlock switch or door not closing fully.
    2. Faulty relay or triac.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when closing or opening door:
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective door interlock switch(s).
    2. Interlock switch knocked out of position.
    3. Misaligned door.

  • Problem: Loud hum and/or burning smell when attempting to cook.
    Possible causes:
    1. Shorted HV diode, magnetron.
    2. Burnt carbonized food in or above oven chamber.
    3. Shorted winding in HV transformer.
    4. Frayed insulation on HV wiring.

  • Problem: Arcing in or above oven chamber.
    Possible causes:
    1. Burnt carbonized food deposits.
    2. Exposed sharp metal edges.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when initiating cook cycle.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective interlock switches or misaligned door.
    2. Shorted HV capacitor.
    3. Shorted HV diode.
    4. Shorted magnetron (probably won't blow main fuse but HV fuse if used).
    5. Defective triac.
    6. Old age or power surges.
    7. Defective HV transformer.
    8. Short in wiring due to vibration or poor manufacturing.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when microwave shuts off (during or at end of cook cycle).
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective triac (doesn't turn off properly).
    2. Defective relay.
    3. Shorting wires.

  • Problem: Oven heats on high setting regardless of power setting.
    Possible causes:
    1. Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).
    2. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Oven immediately starts to cook when door is closed.
    Possible causes:
    1. Shorted relay or triac.
    2. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Oven heats but power seems low or erratic.
    Possible causes:
    1. Low line voltage.
    2. Magnetron with low emission.
    3. Faulty controller or set for wrong mode.
    4. Stirrer (or turntable) not working.
    5. Intermittent connections to magnetron filament or elsewhere.
    6. Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).

  • Problem: Oven heats but shuts off randomly.
    Possible causes:
    1. Overheating due to blocked air vents or inoperative cooling fan.
    2. Overheating due to bad magnetron.
    3. Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
    4. Faulty interlock switch or marginal door alignment.
    5. Faulty controller.
    6. Overheating due to extremely high line voltage.
    7. Stuck stirrer fan resulting hot spots detected by sensors.

  • Problem: Oven makes (possibly erratic) buzzing noise when heating.
    Possible causes:
    1. Fan blades hitting support or shroud.
    2. Vibrating sheet metal.
    3. Vibrating transformer laminations.
    4. Turntable or stirrer hitting some debris.

  • Problem: Oven light does not work.
    Possible causes:
    1. Burnt out bulb :-).
    2. Bad connections.

  • Problem: Fans or turntables that do not work.
    Possible causes:
    1. Gummed up lubrication or bad motor bearing(s).
    2. Loose or broken belt.
    3. Bad motor.
    4. Bad thermostat.
    5. Bad connections.

on Mar 30, 2008 | Kenmore 80412 Microwave Oven

1 Answer

Microwave showing FO1 when turn on all switches


this code normally means defective keypads. test it and replace if necessary, follow this steps . God bless you
  1. Controller is confused A power surge or random non-reproducible action of the universe may have resulted in the controller's program ending up in an infinite loop. Pull the plug for a minute or two to reset it.
  2. Defective Interlock switches This can result in the controller thinking the door is open and ignoring you.
  3. Cleaning Cleaning solutions (spray cleaner) may have gotten inside and shorted out the touchpad or controller. If this happens remove the touchpad, let it air dry for a few days, and then attach it back on the microwave

Dec 10, 2013 | Miele H187MBALU Convection/Microwave Oven

1 Answer

Sunbeam Microwave Display


follow this steps and fix it. God bless you

  1. Controller is confusedA power surge or random non-reproducible action of the universe may have resulted in the controller's program ending up in an infinite loop. Pull the plug for a minute or two to reset it.
  2. Defective Interlock switchesThis can result in the controller thinking the door is open and ignoring you.
  3. CleaningCleaning solutions (spray cleaner) may have gotten inside and shorted out the touchpad or controller. If this happens remove the touchpad, let it air dry for a few days, and then attach it back on the microwave.

Oct 23, 2013 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

GE spacemaker microwave turns off during cooking and display goes black


Step 1:


Door Switch




If the microwave runs for a few seconds and then shuts off, a door switch might have failed intermittently. Check each of the door switches for any signs of overheating, arcing, or burning. Also check each of them for continuity. Replace any of the switches that is visibly damaged or that only has continuity intermittently


mwswitchtest2.jpg

Step 2:

Main Control Board




If the microwave runs for a few seconds and stops there may be a short circuit in the main control board. Check other components first, these boards are often misdiagnosed.


Touchpad and Control Panel




If the microwave runs for a few seconds and stops the touchpad and control panel might be defective. There are several other components that can cause this problem, be sure to check any other components before replacing this board.

Touchpad




If the microwave runs for a few seconds and stops the touchpad might be at fault. This is not common. Generally speaking, if the microwave display is working and some of the buttons respond correctly but some don't, the problem is with the touchpad.

High Voltage Transformer




If the microwave runs for a few seconds and stops the high voltage transformer might have an intermittent short. This is not common. Check other components related to the microwave symptom first.

Thermostat




If the microwave runs for a few seconds and stops the thermostat might be defective. Watch our video on testing thermostat

Step 3:

2_8_2013_11_35_08_am.gif2_8_2013_11_35_30_am.jpg

Step 4:

2_8_2013_11_36_20_am.jpg

Step 5:

2_8_2013_11_37_03_am.jpg

Step 6:

use the DVOM tester and fix it. God bless you

Feb 08, 2013 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

GE JVM1440SH001 f3 error


see the commentaries and repair:
F3--Shorted key panel(touch pad), will occur if a shorted key panel is detected continuously over 60 seconds.
test the following:
1. Door is not closed (some models).
2. You waited to long (open and close door to wake it up).
3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
4. Defective interlock switches.
5. Faulty controller or its power supply.
6. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
7. Defective/damaged touchpad.
8_1_2012_8_14_31_am.gif8_1_2012_8_15_01_am.jpg

Jul 31, 2012 | GE Spacemaker JVM1640SJ Microwave Oven

1 Answer

F1 keeps coming up in oven mode


Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
@#@EWR

Feb 14, 2010 | GE Advantium 120 Convection/Microwave Oven

1 Answer

My advantium microwave / high speed cooking oven comes up with an error code F1 while in the middle of high speed cooking


Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
etry$

Jan 11, 2010 | GE Advantium SCA2000B Microwave Oven

2 Answers

Touch pad on microwave doesn't work


HI, since this happen before and it suddenly fixed itself, i don't think its major. i recommend checking the ribbons for a tight fit. theses connection ribbons may be lose or partiality separated form the control board, in return, causing this fault. you can accesses the ribbons by removing the backcover of this unit. if the ribbons are in good condition, i recommend replacing the touch pad membrane.

May 21, 2009 | KitchenAid KHHS179LSS Convection /...

1 Answer

After preheating, the convection oven displayed F1 and did not heat further


Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
^&^%tg

Jan 29, 2008 | Kenmore 64282 Convection/Microwave Oven

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