Question about Toshiba Satellite M35X-S114 Notebook

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Celeron M processor 1.3 Mhz

Can it be upgraded and if so, what is compatible / recommended?

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Hello Rafael, Based on the stats this looks like a pretty old notebook. Depending on what you want to use it for it may be a better option to buy a new one. Let me know what you use the notebook for primarily and I'll try to guide you through your options.

Posted on Mar 21, 2014


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SOURCE: Dual Processors for Toshiba Satellite A205-S5000 533Mhz FSB

you got a cheap laptop. maybe from walmart or some other store that was selling it for about $400. It doesn't have a processor that you can switch out. I'm sure it's horribly slow for Visa, so my advise would be to sell it and get something with a dual core.

Posted on Feb 26, 2009

  • 5660 Answers

SOURCE: upgrade this cpu

Hold onto your hat tamiagrad09, it may be a 'bumpy ride'.

1) Processor:
Intel Core 2 Duo, Model T5200, 1.6GigaHertz maximum frequency rate. ('Speed'. 1.6GHz)

Read across from the blue - Core 2 Duo T5200 - in the left column.

A) Core Technology used:
Merom; Merom 2M, and is based on the 65nm architecture.

(nm stands for NanoMeter.
One Billionth of a Meter )

B) FSB = 533MegaHertz
Front Side Bus is 533MHz.

C) Voltage = 1.0375 volts to 1.3 (1.3000)
[ DC Voltage ]

That is the voltage range of the processor you are using now.

2) Processor socket:

3) Intel 945GM motherboard chipset,


FSB (Front Side Bus) support is for processors, that have either a 533MegaHertz Front Side Bus, or a 667MHz FSB.

Now your chipset;
Intel Core 2 Duo, model T7250, mobile processor;

Scroll down to Core 2 Duo T7250

A) Core Technology used is also Merom; Merom 2M, and the 65nm architecture.

800MHz. <- This = NO

C) Voltage:
1.075 to 1.175
This would work.

Processor socket:
Socket M just like the T5200 you have now.

No tamiagrad09, the Intel Core 2 Duo, Model T7250, will Not work.

The highest FSB supported by the motherboard is 667MHz.
The T7250 must have 800MHz.!

Hmmm, did you see the Intel Core 2 Duo, Model T7200, will work?

Same Core Technology, and architecture.
Also uses the same Voltage range.
-> Also only needs a FSB support of 667MHz.

Maximum frequency rate ('Speed') is 2.0GHz

Just from a quick search, not advertising.
Besides, we computer geeks have gotta stick together.



Ignore all of the following if you are aware;

1) Tools;
A) Spudger Tool.
You be able to use a thick guitar pick, or kitchen tool, as a substitute, but nothing beats a Spudger Tool,

Used for gently prying the Palm Rest Cover from the Base Enclosure, among many other uses.

B) Jewelers screwdriver set.
(A lot of times the checkout aisle racks, at major discount stores have them )

C) Isopropyl Alcohol.
91 percent is best, 70 percent will do. (Rubbing alcohol)
IMHO 50 percent = No.
50 percent water, and 50 percent alcohol.

D) Q-tips

E) Thermal Paste

F) Multi-compartment container for the various screws you will remove.
Label each compartment for the area the screw/s come out of.
SOME screws look VERY similar to other screws.
Advise DO NOT mix them up.

G) Plastic scraping device.
Old credit card is what I use

H) ESD wrist strap.
(Electro Static Discharge)

Your body carries Static electricity. Static WILL fry out (Short Circuit), the delicate hardware components inside a computer.

A Processor is the MOST susceptible hardware component to Static shock.

Do not use an ESD wrist strap, and have it's alligator clip attached to a good ground source, and you can use the motherboard/processor/ram memory, for a Frisbee.

Average cost is $3 to $6.
I connect to an unpainted surface, of the metal frame of an open, empty desktop computer case.
(Feel an Anti-Static Mat is unwarranted. 10+ years at this says I'm right)

You can also set a large metal serving tray (Unpainted), on the table you're working on, and connect to it.
Or a large metal knickknack. (Unpainted)

In Step 23 per the Irisvista link, the four Philips head screws, securing the Cooling Tube processor plate to the Processor; SHOULD be loosened with a sequential pattern.

Same thing when tightening. A sequential pattern should be used.
Tighten one screw until it just touches, then go in a spiral pattern with the rest of the screws.

After all 4 screws are lightly snugged down, then tighten the first screw to the desired torque, and spiral pattern again.

That is sort of backwards information, but I wanted to bring up about the proper procedure, when loosening.

I would scrape off the old Thermal Paste, and use alcohol dipped Q-tips to clean it further. (Takes a LOT of them babies)
Put it in the case, or carton the new one comes in.
Perhaps you, or someone else might need it in the future.

Isopropyl Alcohol is EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE!
Use in a WELL ventilated area with NO sparks or flames present.

The screw in the Socket M processor socket, ONLY turns 180 degrees to loosen. (Half circle. Don't e-slap me )
L = Lock

Make SURE the Dot/s or Triangle/s in the corners of the Processor, match up with the corresponding marks on the processor socket.
Most of the time they line up with missing socket holes, in the Processor socket.

Hold the Processor down with your thumb, turn the screw 180 degrees towards L.

Apply a small pea sized drop of Thermal Paste, to the center of the Processor. That small blackish rectangle in the center.

Holding the Thermal Module flat, line it up, gently set it down.
Tighten the mounting screws as outlined above.
DO NOT forget to plug the Fan Assemblies power cable, into the motherboard.

(Good time to break those Q-tips out again, along with a small fine soft brush, { makeup brush? }, and a can of compressed air for computers.

Clean the fins of the Heatsink out, and the fan blades, center hub, and surrounding cage, { Shroud } of the Fan Assembly

Also the rest of the laptop, and motherboard.
That thin 'aluminum plate' that is above the Processor, and to the side of the Fan Assembly, has the graphics chipset underneath it.
(I believe)

I would remove the aluminum plate Heatsink screws, clean the top of the graphics chipset, (Credit card/ alcohol dipped Q-tips), and the bottom of the 'aluminum plate Heatsink'.

Then properly apply fresh, new Thermal Paste.

(If there is a Thermal Pad, carefully peel it off, then scrape, and alcohol dipped Q-tips.

You CANNOT reuse a Thermal Pad, and you SHOULD not try reusing the old Thermal Paste.
Even if it is still gooey, Thermal Paste looses it's thermal conductivity over time. (And repeated heating)

The Keyboard Cable is a FFC. Flat Flex Cable.
A FFC has NO connector on the end. The Keyboard Cable STAYS attached to the Keyboard, and removes from the motherboard connector.

The flat contact strip 'pins' need to go back the same way, as they were positioned originally in the motherboard connector.
I suggest make a mark on one side of the cable, and a matching mark on the same side of the motherboard connector.

Same for all components that use a Flat Flex Cable.
(Touchpad, etc)

The motherboard connector is a ZIF connector.
Zero Insertion Force.
Is a rectangular shaped connector, and composed of two parts, or pieces.
HOWEVER it does -> NOT come completely apart.

The bottom part is larger, and stays stationary. It is the BODY.
The top part is smaller, and moves. It is the Locking Bar.

Two styles being presently used to my knowledge;

Style 1: The Locking Bar slides. Slides towards the LCD screen.
ONLY moves about 2mm. That is a little larger than 1/16th of an Inch, or about the width of this capital -> O

Use your thumbnails, be gentle.

Style 2: The Locking Bar flips straight up to a 90 degree angle.

If the Flat Flex Cable of the component you are trying to remove seems stuck, gently move it side to side, then ease it out.
Still no? Check to make sure the Locking Bar is in the fully unlocked position.

IF, the Locking Bar comes off of the Body, you are looking at MOTHERBOARD REPLACEMENT.

Hence why I am being so detailed.

For additional questions please post in a Comment.


Posted on Oct 22, 2012

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I wish that I had better news for you.

Cindy Wells
(do not attempt to use a CPU that your motherboard doesn't support. It probably won't boot.)

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