I just changed my whole coolent system but the last time i drove it my gauges kept dropping to zero. so i cut the car off and now it dont want to start back up. the radio and everything comes on but when i got to turn the key to start everything goes out
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If the thermostat is bad (i.e. stuck open at all times), this would allow coolant to circulate in the engine even when it is below the desired operating temperature. This leads to OVERcooling of the engine. You can either replace the thermostat as a first step or remove it and test it -- closed when cold, open when heated above 190-200F.
If there truly was no oil pressure it would make a horrendous rattle sound from not only the rods but especially the hydraulic valve lifters. It sounds like probably the pressure sensor or the wiring, or both are not reading correctly. The older Chevy V8's had the pressure sensor on the side of the block, under the exhaust manifold where it would just cook it and make it leak and not work right. I always kept a direct reading pressure gauge with hose and adapters in my tool box when I felt I couldn't trust the onboard gauge. Many times it proved the gauges and idiot lights wrong.
You need to put a mechanical gauge on it to read actual oil pressure, sometimes the sensor is wrong, have seen the gauge be off (even on newer than yours). The first thing anyone would do is the mechanical pressure test with a screw in oil pressure gauge. That would be my advise.
It sounds like the coolant temperature sensor is beginning to fail. It is highly unlikely that the in-dash gauge is a problem. The coolant temp sensor inputs to the computer affecting everything from radiator fan speed, engine fuel/air calibration and a variety of other parameters.
Be absolutely certain to "burp" every bubble of atmosphere from the coolant system too. Air bubbles have the amazing ability to prevent coolant flow and will cause all sorts of problems, especially if the bubble wants to hang around the temperature sensor location.
Normal operating temperature is going to be around 210 F.
Most Autozone, Advance locations will read engine problem codes at no charge, so drop by one of those locations and let them read the problem code.
My guess will be the coolant temperature sensor. Then have the problem code reset, remove all air from the coolant and let us know how this worked.
It could be a bad oil sending sensor, or the oil pump. When it drops, does the gauge stay on zero or fluctuates. The sending sensor isn't to bad to replace or cost wise, but pump is a different story. Have someone check the sending unit or just have it replaced to see if that's the problem.