- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Start with the first, front supporting wire / rod & feed it through the lining hoops & roof mounts, then work your way back along the roof doing the same for each rod. This rods fully support the liner & do most of the work.
When all the rods are fitted, start loosening any trim where required, push the liner under & re-seat the trim. Use a blunt tool to lift the edge of any window seals & run it slowly along the seal, inserting the edge of the liner as you go
when you turn the ignition key it activate a metal rod to ignition switch on top of column steering this switch is adjustable by loosing the two bolts and nuts look if you bend that rod could be the problem hope it helps
More than likely that blue disc came from the brake light switch. You state that the brake lights will not go off. The solution is a relatively easy fix. Under the dash near steering column, attached to the brake rod (or above brake pedal) is the switch that controls the brake lights. It is usually held in place with a small connecting rod with a kotter pin or clip. Remove the pin or clip and slowly pull the switch out while (depending on design) slowly pulling the brake pedal rod the opposite direction. Be careful when removing the plug(s) on old switch. Replace the new switch in the opposite order in which you removed the old switch.
Use bicycle spoke or anything similar, pour in some water and thn poke it slowly through the tube and you will feel the choked dust give away, you may need a longer rod kinda thing say a CCM gas weilding rod would work out best as its longer in lenght and about 3mm in diameter.
Hope this helps!
I may have a solution for the unrecognized film holder/clunking problem. The fix is not for the faint of heart, but you can do it yourself and save a bunch of money. The problem lies in the two rails inside the scanner that the film carrier rides on. After unplugging you scanner, remove the 8 screws from the rear of the unit and slide the cover rearward about 3/4" and then lift it straight off. Inside you will see two shiny machined rods running from front to back. The problem is those two rods have dried up lubricant on them and the film carrier drags a bit during film carrier insertion and/or scans. The easiest way I found to clean the rods is to remove the front cover (look for screws inside on each side), and then carefully slide those rods out (but NOT all the way) and wipe off what is exposed and then apply a little silicone lubricant to the rods (be very careful to not get any down into the lens area). Then slide the rods back in and repeat for the portion that is exposed in the rear. Carefully re-assemble everything and you should be all set. This fix worked for me on an 8000ED that I purchased used on eBay. Hope this helps someone. Brian