Question about Kenmore Front Load Washer
Kenmore washer model 970-C47062-00. The washer fills and pumps out but the drum will not move. The lid switch seems to check out fine. The timer also cycles through the final spin real quick and just turns machine off like it is finished. The motor and belt seem ok the drum bearing was starting to get a bit noisy but spinning it by hand seems to still be holding together. Thanks Ryan
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Well, it sounds like you've done your homework. My first suspect would have been the agitator dogs too, but you said they were fine. Another likely suspect would have been the motor coupler, but you said the washer spins during the spin cycle. If the coupler was bad the unit would fill, but wouldn't agitate or spin. Plus, it would make an awful noise. I would have also suspected a clutch assembly, but you said the wash tub can spin. Normally, when the clutch goes bad, the drum won't spin, or spins slow. Another suspect could have been a bad lid switch, but the washer would have filled and stopped, without agitating or spinning. The only remaining suspect that I'm aware of is the gear case (transmission). Checking under the washer can give you some clues. Normally, when a gear case starts to go bad, they leak an amber colored oil. You may find puddles or drips under the washer. If you see no signs of oil the gear case could still be defective, however. But, before you go through all the trouble, double check the agitator one more time. Completely remove it from the tub and check the under side to ensure the grooves that grip the top of the gear case shaft have not been worn smooth. I hope this may have been some help to you.
Posted on Jul 10, 2007
Not_a_fixit is correct. If your agitator does not spin, it is the motor coupling. Then again, if your agitator tries to spin, it is the dog agitators.
Posted on Mar 14, 2008
SOURCE: Kenmore 80 series won't agitate
You will need to check you water level switch. Sound like it is bad or has something clogging it. You can test it like this. Find the tube that runs from the back of the level switch down to the outer tub. Unplug it from the tub. Now turn machine on so that it will start to fill. Now blow pressure into the tube. If it does not cut the water off, you have a bad switch. I would think it's bad. I see them about 5 ir 6 times a week.
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Posted on Aug 25, 2009
Yes sir, a bad motor coupler could cause the machine not to spin. You did the right thing in checking out the lid switch and the pump first. It sounds as if the motor coupling is worn and may be slipping. I will attach a link to a video that may assist you. Hope this helps and best wishes.
Posted on Aug 27, 2009
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number (110.20722990) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Three possibilities: Ranging from relatively easy to messy (draining oil)
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.
It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.
Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.
The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:
Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.
See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.
You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.
Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.
Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.
See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.
It's also possible that the Neutral Drain Assembly in the transmission is broken:
The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.
If it will drain but won't spin the problem is likely in the transmission. "Neutral Drain Assembly".
See the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for top load direct drive washers.
WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.
Ours had a similar problem.
After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).
You don't have to remove the drum.
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.
Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.
Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
All of the above sound more difficult than they really are. If you're comfortable with a socket set, pliers/vice grips and willing to get a bit dirty (oil) you can save some considerable money.
As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.
Posted on May 26, 2010
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