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If Disc brakes jack up wheels , make sure the cable is not binding or frozen , pull hand leaver on three clicks, adjust cable till brakes just start to bind, release hand brake and check the wheels are free to turn. Drum brake check cables are free, back off cable till slack, check lining to drum adjusters are free and adjust if need be, pull hand brake on three clicks, adjust cable so brakes just start to bind release hand brake and make sure the wheels are free to turn ,
You could try momentarily releasing the bleed nipple. If that frees the brake it is a hydraulic problem causing it to bind.
You might have assembled wrong and should take a look at the repair manual or compare with the other side but most commonly such problems are caused by the handbrake cable or levers not fully returning or being adjusted to tightly.
When working on a drum brake the cable adjustment should be fully released before finally fitting the drum and then the brake pedal should be pressed hard several times and then the cable readjusted and the brake checked for correct operation before fitting the wheel. Any problems then are obvious before it goes anywhere near the road.
Your car has drum brakes on the rear. Did you have the parking brake engaged during the time it sat? If so the parking brake lever probably rusted in place. You might be able to loosen the cable at the drum. Otherwise, you need to remove the wheel and drum to free up the parking brake.
hi, you could try lubricating the cable first with some lite oil, or wd40 or similar, are you sure it is the cable and not the brake shoe cam, try undoing the cable, push manualy on the arm from the rear brake drum, doing this will eliminate the cable being the possible cause, when you push on the lever on the rear brake drum with the cable undone from it, the arm should return freely when pushed or pulled, if it is seized at this point you will have to remove the rear wheel,remove the lever from the cam drift out cam from hub, and clean and lubricate before reasembly, when replacing the cable it is important you alow at least 10mm free play in travel, and check for free movment of wheel before use, also ensure you have enough travel to alow operation of rear brake light.
Your saying as you drive it locks and skids? You say as you try to pull out the wheel is shuck and it won't turn? Or your saying that you detect that the wheel is dragging and the wheel turns fine? Is the other rear wheel sticking? The parking brake pedal is it all the way up? With the pedal up are the parking braek cables under the truck going to rear wheels tight or taugt but moving or slack and hanging. As this cable enters the hosing going to the rear wheel about an inch from the housing ( cable Housing ) clamp on a pair of vise grips or other locking pliers and hit them with a hammer towards the rear wheel. As your trying to make the cable go back as much as it's going to. Check both sides as it's possible that thier frozen in the cold weather. It's wise to avoid using the parking break in cold weather as they get mositure in them over time and with them frozen on the brake wil stick. If you find the cables slack with the pedal released and beating them back towards the wheel does'nt seem to be releasing the break you may need to heat the cable with a tourch to free them. The other answer is the rear break came aprt someway and the break shoes are bound up against the drum. The wheel bearing is possible too unless you can tell is the break.
You could have a parking brake cable sticking, or just your rear brake is over adjusted. Rear brakes can be adjusted in, and after the rear drum is removed, the parking brake cable should be checked to see if it moves in and out. Replace if needed!
If you can't get emergency backed off to allow for movement, then you'll have to get small pointed object (screwdriver or whatever) in adjustment hole to lift lever holding adjuster wheel, then back off adjuster wheel at same time until free. If it's emergency cables seized at backing plate area, try spraying where cable goes into sleeve with penetrating spray, and rap sleeves of cables going into backing plate with a stick, or screwdriver handle and it may help them retract enough to loosen up shoes in drum. Good Luck.
If you have steel wheels I would remove the plastic hub cap and hit the wheel close to the center without hitting the lugs with a sledge hamer a few times to release the rusted bond.You may want to try to grab the parking brake cable near the wheel and move it around first to posibly loosen a frozen or stiff cable.
Place the bike on a stand, disconnect the cable, remove the wheel, set
the wheel brake side up, use the bolt slightly inserted in the drum, or
two oposing screw drivers around the drum to pull it from the wheel.
Once pulled, remove the springs and shoes,lightly sand the inner drum
on the wheel, install new pads and springs, spray both drums with brake
clean, reassemble drums and wheel, install the wheel, and then adjust
cable tension and brake pressure at first the wheel, and then at the
bars. Test and readjust as needed.