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If you look at the case , you should see a cast spacer in it. If the sprocket "Rocks" on the shaft, you may have some debris on the case mating face (the inside of the sprocket) - remove the sprocket and clean the shaft and mating face to make sure there is no debris. When the sprocket securing nut is fitted, the sprocket should have no noticeable rocking. Make sure the nut is torqued to the correct setting.
Because of the extreme caustic nature of salt, that substance can ruin any machine, regardless of the materials it is made of.
If you should try to spread it, it may work if the granule size matches the product the spreader is designed for, but immediately upon completion of your task, you would need to completely wash the spreader, getting any trace of salt off, and then if there are any metal parts, you would need to completely dry it.
That task could cause you to "forget about it".
God bless your efforts.
indications are that it is very possible that you have fixed the leak
the only extra thing that you have have to do is use a sealer under the collar but if the nut tension is correct it may be satisfactory
Thank you for contacting FixYa with your inquiry. I have been going
over some of the older help requests that have been archieved and
trying to provide solutions for those that didn't get answered. Hope
this information helps.
KTM Torque settings
Collar screw, front wheel spindle Front axle nut 40Nm 30ft lbs
Brake Caliper front Brake Caliper front Loctite 243 2 19ft lbs
Brake Disk, front Brake disk front Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
I assume you're talking about the front belt drive sprocket. First, disconnect the negative side of the battery. If you haven't already done so, you must drain the primary and remove the outer primary cover. Then you must take the engine compensator nut off and the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster. Remove the circlip and pull the clutch adjuster plate out of the center of the clutch. The mainshaft nut in the hole in the center of the clutch. The nut has LEFT-HANDED THREADS on it. Remove the engine compensator sprocket, primary chain, and clutch assembly all together. Then remove the small bolt that holds the jackshaft in and remove it and the coupling. Remove the starter. Then, take the bolts out and remove the inner primary cover. Now, you can see the front belt drive sprocket. You must take the large nut off the sprocket. It too has LEFT-HANDED THREADS. You need a special deep socket and a sprocket locking tool to get the sprocket off and retorque the nut when you put it back on. This is a major job requiring a fair amount of disassembly of the bike. If you're going to change the belt, the rear wheel and swingarm must come out as well. I would high recommend that you purchase a service manual to help with this project.
Install mounting bolts, washer and collar plates. Insure upper sprocket collar is mounted so the "0" mark can be seen in the large round opening in the collar and locating tab engages in the unmarked sproket groove.
Insure lower sprocket collar is mounted so the "0" can be seen in the square opening of the collar plate and the locating tab protudes into the '0" marked sprocket groove
Pertaining to disengaging the pull-type clutch from a 6 speed transmission:
Remove the rubber access plug from the front/bottom of the bellhousing. Insert a long flat head screwdriver into the opening to reach the pull collar at the pressure plate. Once behind the collar, twist the flat head screwdriver to pop the collar off the pressure plate.
ANY other method of removal will damage the ring and or the pressure plate.
Be certain during reassembly that you do NOT hit these components or damage may occur.