Question about Refrigerators
This is a stand alone model(no freezer) and has been running between 56.5-57.5 degrees since last night. Does anyone have any advice or suggestions for me before I call for service. I do have electronics background and knowledge.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
We are not sure what precipitated the temperature swing up; however, within about an hour of emptying quite a lot of foodstuffs from top and bottom sections of the unit, I felt the cold air start to flow out of the rear vent. Within two hours, the upper section had dropped to about 50 degrees and by the next morning to 36. The freezer seemed to recoved on its own too, having risen to almost 8 degrees and then recovering to 0. Just patience and a smaller food payload?
Posted on Oct 02, 2008
I had this problem last year. I unplugged the the refrigerator and plugged it in an hour later it worked for a little while then quit over night. I finally called a sears repair they came 2 weeks later it was the motherboard, could have fixed it myself, what a hassle. Thankfully I have a fridge in the basement. Still this is a do it yourself.
Posted on Nov 17, 2008
Check to see if there is any ice built up on the back wall of the freezer. If so thaw the ice and take the back wall out of the freezer. next check to see if the fan is running in the freezer (evaporator fan) This fan is what circulates the air from the freezer to the fridge. If it does run then you have a defrost problem (if ice is on the coils and back wall). Then replace defrost timer, heater, and thermostat.
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
If you're handy with a soldering iron, it's possible to 'trick' the fridge into cooling down a few more degrees.
If you open the door to the fridge, on the right wall near the bottom is a small plastic grate. You should be able to pull this straight out from the side wall. There is a temperature sensor attached to the back of the grate. Unplug the sensor. (The fridge will then give you a very annoying error beep and display "EE" on the readout. Pushing the °F-°C button stopped the beeping.) This sensor will change resistance with temperature. (The lower the temperature, the higher the resistance) I was reading a resistance of about 3700 ohms at 43°F and 2460 ohms at 68°F. Throw in a rough assumption that the response is linear and it works out to almost 50ohms/degree. In order to 'trick' the fridge into cooling down more, you need to drop the resistance. I was aiming for about 6 degrees cooler. Assuming the resistance response was linear, 6 degrees cooler would give me about 4000 ohms from the sensor. By jumpering a 50000 ohm resistor (yes, 50K ohm) in parallel with the sensor, I should get about 6 degrees cooler. I did the soldering, plugged the sensor back in, and ended up about 8 degrees cooler. Two days so far, everything appears good and the beer is cold.
Put a 50K ohm resistor in parallel with the temperature sensor behind the grate on the inside right hand wall.
The temperature read out will be inaccurate forever after though. But then, I just want cold beer, my wife wants cold water, and the kids want to play with the cool blue light. I don't care what the number on the readout is.
Posted on Mar 02, 2009
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