Question about Black & Decker BDSF1610 Stand (Pedestal) Fan

Open Question

Remove cover from

This is NOT a regular fan, does not oscillate, front grill is plastic, not metal, not held in place by tabs that I can find. Need to clean it.

Posted by on

Ad

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

How do I remove the front cover off a Frigidaire Through-the-Wall Room Air Conditioner with Supplemental Heat unit? (FRA10EHT2, FRA12EHT2, FRA14EHT2)


Here's how to do it:
1. Remove the filter right behind the front grill. The top of the filter sticks out just a bit right under the movable louvers. Pull it towards you just a bit and upward to remove. See the care instructions that came with the AC unit if you still need help with this.
2. Behind where the top of the filter was, there are two screws, one at each end that hold the grill to the chassis. Remove these.
3. Face the side of the unit. Just where the leading edge of the plastic grill meets the sheet metal casing and up about a third of the way up from the bottom, there is a hidden tab on the plastic that engages a slotted hole in the metal. With your thumb, press in on the sheet metal about 1/8" while pulling gently up on the plastic grill. The tab in the grill holding it to the sheet metal case should release. Do this for the other side of the AC unit as well, and now the bottom of the grill should lift up.
4. Pivot up the grill. There are 4 tabs in the top edge of the grill that grab onto detents in the sheet metal housing. The grill will pivot up around those as a hinge. Lift the grill up about 45?.
5. There is a wire harness between the front electronic controls and the main board located in a metal box. Gently pull the wires and cable out of the box until the connector is exposed. Disconnect the connector.
6. You can now remove the grill from the sheet metal case. However, disengaging it from the sheet metal case may be difficult as when the grill pivots, the plastic tab hooks under the metal. You might try sliding a wooden popsicle stick between the plastic and the metal to raise the plastic enough for the tabs to clear the metal of the slots. Don't use a typical metal screw driver or you will damage the painted finish of the AC unit. You might find the following easier to do.
7. If you need to remove the sheet metal case as well, go ahead and remove all the screws that hold it to the chassis. There are a number on the top, sides and back. Unscrew and remove all of those. Then remove the grill and the metal case together. You should be able to separate the plastic grill from the casing more easily.
8. If like me, you need to straighten out the bent sheet metal of the chassis and the metal case (bent in shipping to me), I found using channel-type pliers with the teeth covered with a piece of towel to prevent scratches to the finish worked well.
9. Reassemble the unit in the reverse manner. Those tabs at the top of the plastic grill, since they are chamfered, can easily be pushed onto the metal case (i.e. they go on much easier than they came off). Just line up the grill square with the casing and push straight back.
10. If you find you have a couple of extra screws, check the back side near the top for two screws holes that are easy to overlook.

Note: after installing the AC unit into the through-the-wall sleeve and turning the unit on, it took about 3 minutes for the compressor to kick on and the unit to start cooling. I think this is part of the built-in compressor or circuit protection in case the unit is tipped or moved.

Hope this is helpful to you.

Sep 17, 2013 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

How to remove front cover from frigidaire hvac fra12eht2


Here's how to do it:
1. Remove the filter right behind the front grill. The top of the filter sticks out just a bit right under the movable louvers. Pull it towards you just a bit and upward to remove. See the care instructions that came with the AC unit if you still need help with this.
2. Behind where the top of the filter was, there are two screws, one at each end that hold the grill to the chassis. Remove these.
3. Face the side of the unit. Just where the leading edge of the plastic grill meets the sheet metal casing and up about a third of the way up from the bottom, there is a hidden tab on the plastic that engages a slotted hole in the metal. With your thumb, press in on the sheet metal about 1/8" while pulling gently up on the plastic grill. The tab in the grill holding it to the sheet metal case should release. Do this for the other side of the AC unit as well, and now the bottom of the grill should lift up.
4. Pivot up the grill. There are 4 tabs in the top edge of the grill that grab onto detents in the sheet metal housing. The grill will pivot up around those as a hinge. Lift the grill up about 45?.
5. There is a wire harness between the front electronic controls and the main board located in a metal box. Gently pull the wires and cable out of the box until the connector is exposed. Disconnect the connector.
6. You can now remove the grill from the sheet metal case. However, disengaging it from the sheet metal case may be difficult as when the grill pivots, the plastic tab hooks under the metal. You might try sliding a wooden popsicle stick between the plastic and the metal to raise the plastic enough for the tabs to clear the metal of the slots. Don't use a typical screw driver or you will damage the painted finish of the AC unit. You might find the following easier to do.
7. If you need to remove the sheet metal case as well, go ahead and remove all the screws that hold it to the chassis. There are a number on the top, sides and back. Unscrew and remove all of those. Then remove the grill and the metal case together. You should be able to separate the plastic grill from the casing more easily.
8. If like me, you need to straighten out the bent sheet metal of the chassis and the metal case, I found using channel-type pliers with the teeth covered with a piece of towel to prevent scratches to the finish worked well.
9. Reassemble the unit in the reverse manner. Those tabs at the top of the plastic grill, since they are chamfered, can easily be pushed onto the metal case (i.e. they go on much easier than they came off). Just line up the grill and push straight back.
10. If you find you have a couple of extra screws, check the back side near the top for two screws holes that are easy to overlook.
Note: after installing the AC unit into the through-the-wall sleeve and turning the unit on, it took about 3 minutes for the compressor to kick on and the unit to start cooling. I think this is part of the built-in compressor or circuit protection in case the unit is tipped or moved.
If you or other views like this answer, please rate it a Thumbs Up.

Jun 10, 2012 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I need to replace the interior bulb on my GE profile model jvm1850dm2vv microwave oven. Can I access it from the area where the replaceable filter is?


The oven interior bulb is on the top. Look closely at the grille above the door. There are two recessed screws that hold the grille in place. Remove these and carefully pull the grille straight out. You may have to wiggle it a bit - it's a tight fit on most of those I've serviced. Look in the center of the oven above the door. There is a sheet metal cover held in place with one or two screws (usually one, plus a plastic tab going into a slot in the sheet metal). Remove this screw and pull out the sheet metal. You will see the light bulb and the microwave stirring plate motor. Note that the instructions say you should unplug the oven before changing the light bulb. GE's lawyers are afraid you'll stick your fingers in the wrong place and somehow get shocked if you don't have the power removed.

Jan 31, 2011 | GE Profile Over-the-Range Microwave

1 Answer

How do u change the front signal bulbs on SRX 2004 with out taking the whole car apart???


Remove the bottom plastic cover along the front grills by pulling the push pins which hold them in place. You can slide the cover out . Remove the plastic cover inside the wheel which is also held by push pins.

When both the covers are out you ca use an 9/32'' wrench to remove the two bolts which hold the whole lamp assembly.You then need a torx driver to remove the six torx screws in the light assembly and you can replace the bulb.

Jan 04, 2011 | 2004 Cadillac SRX

1 Answer

Fan is working, but not cooling. Can't get the front cover off. It sticks at the top


Hi!!
First, to remove the front cover, the assembly has two or three plastic tabs that fit into the same amounts of slots in the metal casing, release grill assembly from the bottom and lift it a little to release the tabs.
Second, On the non cooling issue, check the evaporator coils when you first start unit, does the compressor starts at all, starts and quits after short periods???
Keep me posted!!

Aug 14, 2010 | GE Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

How to i remove the rear speaker grille on my 1989 astro van


In order to remove speaker grill, you will have to remove the whole panel. The speaker grille is actually held in place with metal tabs tabs.

Mar 10, 2010 | Visonik V117SX Car Audio Amplifier

1 Answer

How do I access the power window switch


I remove the silver speaker grille cover 1st. pick a place by the front bend ( by the cup holder in the door ) and insert a plastic trim tool in, and pop it loose. If you do not have a trim tool, a plastic putty knife usually will work, last resort should be a screw driver, this can mark the plastic.
95cb244.jpg
Once the speaker grille is off, the switch panel is held on with spring clips on the side facing into the truck. Place the trim tool under the edge of the switch cover, and turn anti clock wise. This will release the spring clip, do the same for the other one.
2c8c364.jpg

At this point, the tabs on the side towards the door can be picked up, and pulled out, freeing the switch panel from the door.
9030655.jpg

Feb 14, 2010 | 2004 Ford F150

1 Answer

I neede to remove the headlights for my 2008 E 350 and need instructions. OIt appears that removing the front bumper is needed ? Thanks


Here's some instructions for removing bumper and headlights.

E-Class W211 front bumper removal (standard body style).

Tools needed:
- Automotive wheel ramps (Rhino ramps from Autozone).
- 1/4" drive socket set with 8mm and 10mm sockets.
- #20 torx bit.
- Floor jack, optional but useful.
- Flat blade screwdriver.

Instructions for bumper removal:

1) Turn front wheels full right to remove push-pin fastener at lower front corner of left wheel well plastic splash guard. It's difficult to remove this fastener once the car is up on the wheel ramps.

2) Turn front wheels full left to remove push-pin fastener at lower front corner of right wheel well plastic splash guard.

3) Drive car up on wheel ramps. Block rear tires. Open hood.

4) Remove lower mesh plastic grille. There are five attachment points on the top edge of the grille. You can get to three of them with your hand by reaching between the radiator and the back side of the grille. The two outer ones can be released with a screwdriver also reaching in between the grille and radiator. Once the plastic tabs are released, you can remove the grille by pulling it out from the front of the car.

5) Remove the plastic panel located immediately behind the bumper from the bottom of the engine compartment. This panel is held in place with nine sheet metal screws with a 8mm hex head. Five screws are on the bottom of the car and there are two screws in each wheel well at the inner lower edge. After removing all nine screws you can work the panel free.

6) Disconnect the cable from each fog light and remove both fog lights. They are held in place by two sheet metal screws with a #20 torx head.

7) Remove the side marker bulbs. The one on the passenger side turns clockwise to remove and the one on the driver side turns counter-clockwise.

8) Remove the temperature sensor from its socket on the driver side.

9) If you have a floor jack, raise the car at the jack point on the cross member below the engine. You do not want to raise it off the wheel ramps. But it helps to have more clearance above the tires to work in the front wheel wells.

10) Remove three of the plastic nuts holding the forward half of the plastic wheel well liner in place. It's not necessary to remove the plastic liner. You just need to loosen it up so that you can pull it away from the fender to gain access to the screw and bracket securing the bumper to the fender.

11) Pull back the wheel well liner and remove the sheet metal screw from the rear end of the metal bracket . There is only one sheet metal screw (#20 torx head) holding this bracket in place. Don't attempt to remove the bracket yet. I used a #20 torx bit in a 1/4" socket with a 6-inch extension for a 1/4" drive wrench. The head of the screw faces the ground.

12) Remove the 5mm bolts (8mm hex head) holding the bumper to the headlight assembly between the small lens and large lens (both sides).

13) Remove the two 6mm bolts (10mm hex head) on either side of the large grille area opening.

14) Remove the two 6mm bolts (10mm hex head) securing the bumper to the bottom edge of the crashbar. You can access these bolts through the front where you removed the plastic mesh grille.

15) Remove the three 5mm bolts (8mm hex head) holding each headlight assembly in place. Two longer bolts are on top. One at the rear outer corner and one at the front inner corner. The third bolt is accessed from the bottom. It's in the area above the fog lamps. You don't need to disconnect the headlight cables and remove the assembly. But it helps to allow the headlight assembly to "float" freely while you disengage the bumper from the fender.

16) At this point all of the fasteners holding the bumper in place have been removed. The only thing left to do is to remove the two brackets "clamping" the bumper cover to the lower front edge of the front fenders. Before you do this, position some cardboard boxes, bags of packing material, six packs of paper towels, or other suitable items to protect the bumper in case it falls off the car.

17) The bracket holding the bumper cover to the fender has a "pin" that slips into a slot at the front edge of the bumper cover. There is a matching slot near the front edge of the fender. It's not possible to see this pin from the bottom of the car. Use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the bracket away from the bumper/fender and towards the center of the car. The bracket will "hinge" on the pin at the front end of the bracket. After you swing the bracket away from the bumper, you need to slide it forward to remove it from the slot in the bumper cover and fender. You will probably scratch some paint off of this bracket with the screwdriver. I recommend repainting the scratched areas of the bracket before reinstalling it.

18) After removing the bracket from each side of the car you need to deal with the small plastic "hook" holding the bumper cover to the very front tip of the fender. This hook is an integral part of the bumper cover. Disengaging this hook from the fender is probably the most difficult step of removing the bumper. Simultaneously raise the head light assembly slightly, push the leading edge of the fender outward slightly, and push the bumper cover inward toward the headlight assembly. Don't get too aggressive with the fender. It's aluminum and you will make a real mess if you apply too much pressure on the fender. It took me about 20 minutes to free each side from this hook. It should take you less time, since you now know that the hook exists!

19) Gently pull the bumper forward and away from the car. This is one step where a second person would be helpful. But I did manage to do this step alone. There is a "pulley" like attachment point on each side just below the fender/bumper seam.

To re-install the bumper, reverse the order of the steps above. When re-installing the bracket between the bumper cover and fender, I smeared a thin coating of car wash soap on the bracket to facilitate snapping the bracket back into place.




Oct 09, 2009 | Mercedes-Benz E350 Cars & Trucks

5 Answers

Taking apart the fan


Whew!! Finally figured this one out!
How to Clean Seville Classics Tower Fan
Approx Time: 1.5 hrs

Tools:
Long Phillips head screw driver
Metal Skewer or very thin/sturdy screw driver
Empty egg carton (to keep track to the hundreds of screws)
Leatherman or small pliers
Toothbrush
Vacuum

Make sure the fan is unplugged!

1.Filp fan over and remove the 2 larger screws that hold the pedestal together (keep screws organized)
2.Remove the 4 inner screws that connect to the base
3.Remove base
4.Unscrew the 6 screws that hold the lower rear cover
5.Remove lower rear cover
6.Unscrew the 4 screws around the underside of the fan case (in a half circle)
---Very Important in cleaning---
7.Replace pedestal! Yes all 6 screws (4) smaller inner screws and (2) larger screws
8.Stand fan upright (lower rear base cover removed)
9.At top of control panel (buttons) locate a small circular hole (top of fan) towards the rear handle
10.Take the skewer or thin/sturdy screw driver and stick it in the whole
11.Gently but firmly pop up the control panel. (it took some patience, working around the panel but it popped up.
12.Remove (4) screws and remove the secondary plate
13.Remove (3) larger screws toward the front of the fan and (4) smaller screws around the edge
---Leave the screws in the metal plate in place---
14.Remove the 3rd cover
---Now the fun part!!---
15.To remove the metal screen push the plastic front in slightly at the edge with the open plastic vents (this side doesn't have tabs). There is a bent edge that is held in place by the plastic screen on this side.
16.Continue to pry the screen backwards and push edge with tabs (side of plastic front with no vents) towards the front of the fan. There are 3 metal tabs that slide in the plastic front at that edge.
---The front plastic vent face should be left in place, all of the control wires run through it---
17.With metal screen off, you can use your vacuum (highly recommended) while you scrape the "turbine" with the toothbrush. There are a lot little turbine edges and they get quite dirty. Vacuum is a must!! In fact, I had mine running the entire time.
---The plastic turbine does not come off and must be cleaned in place---
18.Putting it back together!!! The metal screen tabs might have bent a little when you pried it off, I used a leatherman (pliers) to bend them straight. With patience you slide the tabs back into the plastic slots (working from the bottom up is best), slowly start to place the screen back around the fan. When you get to the side with the bent edge, you must push the plastic vent face inward (bottom up is easiest) in order to snap the screen around the edge.
19.Now, while not letting the plastic front slip from the metal screen, grab the plastic plate and slide it on top (make sure to get the metal rod back into the rubber gasket) and push down. This will hold the metal screen in place.
20.Put all the screws back in place and snap the control panel back on.
21.Remove the bottom pedestal in order to put the rear plate back on.
22.Replace the pedestal.

This is definately a fan made by engineers with disposable income that can afford to buy a new fan every year instead of cleaning it on a regular basis! I have had my fan for the past 4 years and always leave my windows open. After sometime, the performance when down, barely eeked out a breeze and shot dust bunnies on to my carpet. Often it would overheat and shut off automatically.

After all this time, I finally figured out how to clean it and boy, was I suprised how much dirt and junk this fan collects.

Hope this helps all the frustrated tower fan owners!!





Jun 22, 2008 | Seville Classics MSC10166 Tower Fan

8 Answers

How to open seville classic fan for cleaning


you can find the manual here. It shows assembly, etc,

https://www.sevilleclassics.com/products.php?pid=339

Mar 31, 2008 | Dryers

Not finding what you are looking for?
Black & Decker BDSF1610 Stand (Pedestal) Fan Logo

Related Topics:

30 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Black & Decker Dryers Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

76649 Answers

Donald DCruz
Donald DCruz

Level 3 Expert

17130 Answers

Brad Brown

Level 3 Expert

15956 Answers

Are you a Black & Decker Dryer Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...