Question about Refrigerators

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Flashing lights and sounding alarm and not cooling.turned thermostats off then compressor did start.fridge not working freezer ok.it has been off for a week.opened the panel inside and realised air flow flap does not open when compressor is on,but when the compressor is off and fan is blowing it opens.but as soon as the comp starts air flow flap shuts.

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  • jcalishab Jun 15, 2009

    hi,the fan works ok.if i remove the air flow flap the fridge works what causes it not to work its becoz the air flow flap shuts when the compressor starts,but flashing lights still on.so do you think it will be the door sensor.i can not see the door switch i think it has an electronic sensor.

  • jcalishab Jun 16, 2009

    hi muzzi,model is hotpoint ff200e no frost.fridge/freezer.replied you yesterday but i have not recieved an answer.pls help coz am stranded.

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It's noisy Noise can come from these areas:

The inside of the freezer
The outside back of the refrigerator
The bottom of the refrigerator
The inside of the freezer Self-defrosting refrigerators use a circulating fan to move the air through the freezer and refrigerator compartments. This fan runs whenever the unit is cooling. The fan is located in the freezer, as follows:

  • If the freezer is on top, the fan is on the back wall, near the top or bottom, in the center of the freezer.

  • If the freezer is on the bottom, the fan is on the back wall, near the top of the freezer.

  • If the freezer is on the left, the fan is on the back wall, halfway up or near the top.

Over time, the fan may become noisy--usually making a chirping or squealing sound, though it may make a loud groaning noise instead.

To find out if the fan is causing the noise, just open the freezer door and push in any fan/light switches. If the noise is louder when the door is open, the evaporator fan motor is the cause. You can't lubricate or repair this motor. You must replace it.

The outside back of the refrigerator There are three components on the outside back of the refrigerator that may become noisy: the compressor, the condenser fan motor (if self-defrosting), or the defrost timer (if self-defrosting).

  • The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. You can see it on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. It is usually black and has black or copper-colored tubes and various colored wires attached to it. If the compressor is the device making noise, there is probably no repair that will reduce the noise. You will have to replace it--which can be quite costly.

  • If the condenser fan is making noise, there may be a build-up of lint or other debris on the fan blade. The fan is located near the back of the machine, sometimes behind a thin panel. To clean it, first unplug the refrigerator, remove the thin panel, and use a soft bristle brush to clean it. If there is no lint build-up or debris on the blade, you will have to replace the motor.

  • The defrost timer is often located at the bottom of the refrigerator, near the front and behind the kick plate. Occasionally the electric motor inside the timer may become noisy. The timer must be replaced to solve this problem.

The bottom of the refrigerator Noises detected at the bottom of the refrigerator almost always originate from the back of the refrigerator. However, sometimes the drain pan under the refrigerator will rattle. You may need to tape the pan in place to stop a rattle. Also see the “Outside back of the refrigerator.”

Posted on Jun 17, 2009

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Can you give me the make/model of the unit?

Posted on Jun 15, 2009

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In older models the motor for the fan just turns on when the compressor turns on, in these case you may want to check on the wiring.  
Some models would turn on only when the freezer door is closed.  You may want to check the switch on that.  
While other models would have an electronic switch, which uses sensors to decide if the fan should turn on or not which may be defective or would need cleaning because it may have iced or other reason.

Posted on Jun 14, 2009

  • Nicolo Carlo Parazo Jun 16, 2009

    I looked up for the beeps based on the model number that you have. You may have a sealed system issue. Take the
    back panel off the freezer and see if there is an abundance of frost
    build up behind it. If you find no frost then look at the silver coils
    behind the back panel, they should be coated with a very thin layer of
    frost about 1/16" all the way around. If the coils are partially
    covered or not covered at all then you have a sealed system issue. This could be caused by leaks or faulty defrost thermostat.


    The back panel is found inside the freezer.

    Usually this option is for new units, I suggest to try to leave the unit off for 24 hours before bringing it back on to let the fuids settle down.



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Fridge not working but freezer is. Why?


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Hi,

Your description is quite complete but is rather baffling. Pls bear with me while we process by elimination. A few basic/working ideas:
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  • the cold air in the freezer is drawn towards the fridge to cool that area;
  • this is performed by a fan drawing air in the freezer through the evaporator;
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As applied to your concern:
  • compressor is working since freezer is OK;
  • fan is working as you posted but is the air drawn from the freezer, better still, is the air forced/vented into the fridge?
  • could you please check that the air is strongly blown into the fridge area;
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For a more precise answer I need more information.
A lot of things may be incorrect:
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1 Answer

Freezer stays cold but fridge has been warm. I turn the thermostat to off for a day and then everything is ok for a week. Sounds like the fan is frozen solid when fridge doesn't work( no sound) Th


If there is no cooling at all on the fridge section but the freezer works then it is confirmed that the compressor and gas pressure is OK. Now shut off the fridge and leave it powered off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.
However if ice forms in the freezer then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked. Frost formation without defrosting could block the air flow and so shut the air passage to the fridge. Also the blower fan must work and if this is not working then the fan can be faulty. Also a fault on the control unit is a suspect to non functioning of any one of these components.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
So try this test using a multi-meter on the defrost timer and the thermostat and make your observations so that we come to the solution.

Please check the link below for tips to remove the panels/parts: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/fridges-and-freezers/a/2

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If there is no cooling at all on the fridge section but the freezer works then it is confirmed that the compressor and gas pressure is OK. Now shut off the fridge and leave it powered off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.
However if ice forms in the freezer then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked. Frost formation without defrosting could block the air flow and so shut the air passage to the fridge. Also the blower fan must work and if this is not working then the fan can be faulty. Also a fault on the control unit is a suspect to non functioning of any one of these components.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
So try this test using a multi-meter on the defrost timer and the thermostat and make your observations so that we come to the solution.

Please check the link below for tips to remove the panels/parts:

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/fridges-and-freezers/a/2

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For Samsung Refrigerator SR-L629EV my freezer


If there is no cooling at all on the fridge section but the freezer works then it is confirmed that the compressor and gas pressure is OK. Now shut off the fridge and leave it powered off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.
However if ice forms in the freezer then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked. Frost formation without defrosting could block the air flow and so shut the air passage to the fridge. Also the blower fan must work and if this is not working then the fan can be faulty. Also a fault on the control unit is a suspect to non functioning of any one of these components.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
So try this test using a multi-meter on the defrost timer and the thermostat and make your observations so that we come to the solution.

Please check the link below for tips to remove the panels/parts:

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/fridges-and-freezers/a/2

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