Question about Audio Players & Recorders
Trying to add a kill switch
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It won't work like this due to this being a computer only speaker system. It requires the drivers to work with a computer & a Home theater does not recognize the format. Sorry.
Posted on Feb 25, 2009
Your adapter is Part No. AVX300-A6859, Model No. 9701-00748-IUND.
Or You could get a universal that is rated for output of 18volt DC, 650ma, Center Positive.
I have used a 15volt DC, 900 ma with no problem, but I never run the volume high.
Posted on Dec 04, 2008
I did the same! Thanks for suggesting a call to Customer Support (800)258+3288. The guy didn't seem overly pleased to help, but he did promise to send me a new power supply. Also, he said that they don't make the iM7 anymore, but I had already found out that the iM9 uses the same power supply. I, too, will wait and see.
Posted on Jul 07, 2008
Unfortunately the subwoofer supplies the power to the amp on the speakers, Once again I have the solution,
These speakers are factory molded so that the only way to open them is to break the factory seal
this can be done by sharply rapping the seam at the bottom of the speaker with a heavy screwdriver handle or something similar.
Now you need to supply power to the amp...If you do not have the subwoofer you will need a 4.5volt power supply, after removing the board from the casing find the red white and black wires connecting
the orange plug wire to it, Personally I removed the entire cord from the unit, shough you can splice in at this point if you desire.
Connect the white lead to your posative on your power supply by either splicing or soldering, connect the ground to the heat sink using the screw that is already there holding the chip to the sink. reassemble the speaker.....super glue... and you are now in business.
Posted on May 22, 2009
I've managed to fix the amp in the ADA995 when I blew the rear channel amp. There is a design fault with the voltage regulator that causes it to run very hot, which frys the plastic housing glued near it, which corrodes the circuit board trace.
Getting the sub/amp apart is a *****. But doable. You need to not only remove the screws in the back under the flat grills, but ALSO 3 screws behind the top speaker that also hold the amp in place. And getting the power supply out is another rather difficult procedure, which is needed if you want to run the amp on the bench to troubleshoot.
The amp chips are available, though no NTE equivalent, and replaceable.
Posted on Apr 22, 2012
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