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When I accelerate my battery drops

Everytime I accelerate the battery drops and the machine they put on at the auto store said alt and battery were good

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2006 Cadillac CTS help My car was tested @auto zone for the batery n alternator n both passed Good voltage Everytime I go to crank my car it does not crank I have 2 jump it of even if it's for 15 mins


Luis: That makes no sense. But here is what others are saying: " How possible is it for a bad alternator to be tested good? I already had people telling me to replace it.

I got both the battery and alt tested. Both passed.

Reinstalled on the car and it ran good surprisingly after the battery was charged @ the autostore > till after about 10 minutes, then the battery meter dropped back down.

Soon as i turned on the lights/ac the battery meter dripped down real low. SOon as i turned them off the meter jumped back up.


Soon as i revved the engine the headlight would brighten then dim back down after the rev was over.

I can jump the car, but it will turn off by itself if you leave it idling to long then it needs another jump.
Driving it doesn't charge the battery up.. its actually drops the battery meter down more and more and more till its dead.

-Car doesn't drain the battery while its off.. so its nothing left on.


>> Now people are telling me there alternator was tested good, but the problems went away after buying a new alt.
"
Some people say there could be a loose belt not turning the alternator fast enough to supply power to lights/ac and charge battery. Or bad wires". or possibly a bad voltage regulator.

May 28, 2015 | 2006 Cadillac CTS

1 Answer

02 toyota camry dies everytime foot is off accelerator


Most auto parts stores offer free Alternator testing takes 5 mins. if the Alternator is good and will hold a charge,then your problem sounds as if it is a spark plug/ fuel mixture issue,,check plugs and plug wires.

Jun 07, 2012 | Toyota Camry Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Battery on full charge then start truck drive to town and noticed volt gauge at low turned lights and access off got home shut truck off tried starting after shut down and noting but dead bat havn prob...


You need to fully charge the battery and load test it, then check the charging system and alternator drive belt for tightness. do not remove cable when running or it can harm the charging system...ok on older cars, no longer good practice. Quick check of charge system can be done with volt meter across the battery. Volts should read between 13 and 14volts and not drop over time. With all lights, heater etc on volts should be better than 12.5 (usually above 13 and again, not drop with time.

Oct 26, 2010 | Ford F-250 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Battery,ABS,brake dash are on.when it first happend i could rev the motor and the lights would go out.took alt.out had it tested at auto zone they said it was fine.put alt back in same thing. any info...


test and check battery and or connections to and from alternator also check the connections for the abs sensors may have a loose or damaged connection if looks good than have car scanned for trouble code [even with light out compute still stores code] some auto stores such as auto zone / advanced auto scan for free check ur local area the code will give u a start point towards fixing ur problem good luck

Feb 25, 2010 | 1994 BMW 5 Series

2 Answers

Not charging battery


check the alternator at a repair shop or auto parts store .they can put a gauge on it

Dec 03, 2009 | 1997 Ford Econoline

1 Answer

ELECTRICAL PROBLEM


May I can put a nail in this one for you.The problem is your alternator. The proper charge rate is 13.6 to 14.2v Now get this. The higher the voltage, the lower the amps.Voltage @ the 14.2 end is moving the minimum amps. @ 15 v there os no charging happenning. Go to the other end and you'll find at 12v the alternator is puring the coals to the battery Alt @ max output. The difference between 12 and 13 / 14 and 15 is the is like a buffer. If the alt charges @ less than 13v for any length of time, It goes poof because of excessive heat.which is an indicator the battery is possibly ready to go poof also. Alt. function as a source of maintenance charging when deman is low and a compensator when demand goes up. That is why a low cranking amp battery is for lawnmowers and people that like buying batts and alts.Now, solution! Have your battery load tested. Chances are real good that it is not up to par. Hence, overworked alternator. If so, replace it. 650 to 850 cold crank amps rating . (cca ) Then have your alt tested output checked if you you end up with a new batt. If your alt puts oout in the given range, which should be around but not below 13v) After starting, it will charge heavy to make up for the cracking, but should get up around 13.6v within 15 seconds. Alts charge at all speeds, unlike generators of old which needed speed (rpms) to put out power. Alts do all the thinking and have internal regulators. Well anyway, You didn't ask for a course in Automotive electrical just a course of action. Remember, Battery first ten alt. Good luck. Any autozone or checker parts store can do all that checking for you. -Ned-

Sep 04, 2009 | Mazda MX Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Volt gage drops when not accelerating, replaced battery and altenator, its running worse now


What are the voltage readings?
Voltage may drop when idling and a larger voltage drop can be present when a large load (amp draw)is present on the alt.
A low charged battery is a large load.
Operating accessories is a large load.
A slow spinning (idling) alt will not put out it's max output.
This would be normal.

We like to see.....above 12.7V at idle....max 15V.......
.......and a min of 13.5V to a max of 15V at higher engine speed.
If you are with-in this.......don't worry about it.

Aug 27, 2009 | 1992 Buick Century

2 Answers

Possible bad alternator?


Bad alternators straight out of the box are not uncommon. Replace it again and hope you get a good one. Make them test it on the bench before taking it out of the store.

Sep 03, 2008 | 2002 Saturn VUE

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