Question about Whirlpool Duet 4.0 Cu. Ft. Steam Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Possible your belt is loose; you have to unscrew the back after disconnecting electrical connection from wall socket. If the belt "gives" more than half an inch, you have to loosen the motor bolts and push motor upwards, then tighten the bolts very well. Try spin only to check, before closing the behind. It shd spin very fast.
Posted on Apr 25, 2007
Sounds like you may have lost your basket drive and clutch assembly. This is a pretty involved job to replace for sure, and requires you to remove the inner basket, drop the transmission, etc. Does the unit make any wierd noises, like popping or grinding? Does it agitate ok in wash? I would bet almost for sure that its that basket drive and attached sub-pack thats went bad. If you want to try and tackle this yourself, let me know, and will get you directions to do so. Good Luck!!!!
Posted on Feb 02, 2008
I would assume that you are using HE detergent if not the pump could go into a suds lock. You may have a bad drain pump. The other options could be possibly a bad central control unit. (however these are very expensive) or possibly a door lock issue but usually you will get a door lock error.
Posted on Jan 13, 2010
The error is an indication a motor speed problem. You will need to check the following:
- Check the wiring harness. Verify all connections between the Drive Motor, Motor Control Unit (MCU), and Central Control Unit (CCU).
NOTE: The MCU is a circuit board located in the vicinity of the Drive Motor on the bottom rear of the washer. To access the MCU, you will need to remove the back panel of the washer.
NOTE: The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located behind the wash tub. You will need to remove the top panel to access the CCU. This is accomplished by removing the three screws in the back of the washer that hold the top in place. Once the screws are removed, the top panel will slide back, then lift off.
- Check the Drive Motor. Perform a continuity check of the Drive Motor windings. Remove the connector plug and check across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3, and 1 to 3. All readings should be approximately 6 ohms. HINT: You can also take this reading by removing connector 2 from the MCU and measuring across pins 1, 2 and 3. If the readings are good, this will also prove the wiring and connector good.
- Check the MCU. The connectors are numbered 1 to 3 (L to R). That is, with the MCU installed, connector 1 is on the bottom, followed by 2 in the middle, and 3 on top.
Connector 1 - is the serial communications link between the MCU and CCU and has three wires. At the opposite end, this will be the 2nd connector from the rear on the left-hand side of the CCU.
Connector 2 - is the link between the MCU and the Drive Motor. Pins 1, 2, and 3 on this connector are the Drive Motor windings. Pins 4 and 5 are for the tachometer.
Connector 3 - is the primary power connector. Pins 1 to 2 should read 120VAC with the door in the locked position. Pin 3 is ground. At the opposite end, this is the 4th connector from the right on the front of the CCU.
NOTE: All the connector pins are numbered R to L.
If your continuity readings are normal for the Drive Motor and you have verified all connectors, replace the MCU.
If any of the Drive Motor windings indicate readings higher that 6 ohms, replace the Drive Motor.
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Posted on Sep 28, 2010
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Aug 22, 2017 | Washing Machines
Apr 15, 2015 | GE Washing Machines
Hey friend, thank you for your post!
I see that your Frigidaire washer, FWT449GFS2 is not entering the final high spin cycle. It is possible that you could have a defective motor or timer. Since it could be any one of these underlying issues I would recommend you having a professional come out to the home for the repair of your washer. -Matt
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