Question about Kenmore Dryers

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Kenmore 700 series Dryer shuts down after a few minutes in heated cycle, runs forever with no problem in Air Dry (no heat) mode, I disassembled the entire machine drum, motor, vents and removed every spec of dust - no change, I am running with the vent hose disconnected to test it, there is plenty of hot air flowing freely out of the vent, but it still shuts down after a few minutes

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  • John Mock Mar 18, 2014

    Hi Brian Best, I want to help you with your problem, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box? Does your dryer have a moisture sensor in the controls?

  • Brian Best
    Brian Best Mar 18, 2014

    Yes - 3 options: timed, moisture sense and air dry

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  • Kenmore Master
  • 932 Answers

Brian, look inside your drum for some curved strips of metal that may be 6-8 inches in length. There may be two of them that run parallel to each other about half an inch apart. This is your moisture sensor. If you use dryer sheets like a lot of people do you may have an issue where there is a build up of residue from the dryer sheets on the sensors. Take some rubbing alcohol and some cotton balls or a rag and wipe down the sensor strips. If they come back blue in color there is build up on the strips. Keep wiping down until you no longer get any blue color. That build up can make the dryer think that the clothes are dry and shuts the dryer down. Hope this helps, I have done this on a couple of different dryers and it made a big difference.

Posted on Mar 18, 2014

Testimonial: "John - thanks for your suggestion, we don't use the dryer sheets but your question made me think to try the Moisture Sensor cycle and the dryer ran through the cycle OK. Maybe after I cleaned it and checked the connections it finally shook something loose. When I tested the heated cycle before it only ran a few minutes. Over the last couple days I tried this at least a dozen times, but now in Moisture sense it worked OK. I'll try the heated cycle again and see what happens."

  • Brian Best
    Brian Best Mar 18, 2014

    OK, well now it just ran successfully through a 60 minute cycle. I hate to say I fixed it because I don't know for sure. But I guess a god thorough cleaning and checking all the connections made a difference. Thanks again.

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when you try to start it again do you hear a humming comeing from the motor? can you jump start it by turning the drum while holding the start button? If you say yes to these questions you have a bad motor.

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

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Hi, Here are the obvious parts to check: Heater, High limit, Thermal fuse or thermostats...these are all generally located in the back but some models you access them from front. the most common cause is either heater or thermal fuse, I will include a picture of the thermal fuse. If you test these parts and find they all work you may be looking at a centrifiacal switch problem.

Here is a picture of the thermal fuse check this part first:

http://www.partselect.com/repair.aspx?appliance=dryer&part=replace-thermal-fuse

Please feel free to contact again if you have any other problems.

Hope this helps.

Posted on Jun 24, 2009

protek480
  • 1714 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore dryer shuts off after five minutes

The vent box inside the dryer still has lint in it. You need to reach way inside to get at it. Turn power off.

Posted on Jul 22, 2009

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1 Answer

My danby dryer keeps shutting off and turning on and the clothes take forever to dry


GOD IS STILL GOOD !!!!

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating.

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.html

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What is wrong with my gas dryer ? no heat and wn't shut off.


FIRST OFF IN THE AUTO DRY MODE THE DRYER USES THE MOISTER SENSOR AND AS LONG AS THE MOISTER SENSOR DOES NOT DETECT HEAT OR DRIED CLOTHES IT WILL CONTINUE TO RUN FOREVER.

NEXT AS FOR UR NO HEAT:

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating.

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.html

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eb4e482.jpg
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