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as the head bolts are being torqued up there is a movement on the head gasket sort of like ironing the wrinkles out
BY pulling the head bolts down in the correct rotation ( sequence) this allows the "wrinkles" to be worked to the outside of the gasket and so the head is pulled down evenly on to the block with a flat gasket in between
The first stage is to get all the bolts to a predetermined tension so that the head is flat
the next stage starts to flex the head to carry out the "ironing" effect
this is repeated until the gasket is flat and the head is also flat on it
I my self use the tightening sequence for smaller ft/lb settings or degrees and almost twice the number of rotations as required because it makes for a better control of the stretching process of the bolts
You should be tightening it down to angles of degrees and not ft/lbs
The reason for this is that the head is clamped on by the stretch of the head studs and that stretch has to be even on all bolts
using a tension wrench means that the wrench will click off at a predetermined setting BUT that doesn't mean that the stretch is correct as the friction loading on the threads of the studs will vary according to thread cleanliness and finish, water or oil in the holes, wet or dry /rusty threads
BY using angles for tension, there is near a guarantee that each bolt is stretched the right amount regardless of the thread conditions
you can set the tension on the cable knob. take an 11/16 wrench and loosen the nut on the back side of the knob bracket. there is a plastic knurled nut on the front side of the bracket, tighten the plastic nut a little then the metal nut to tighten it to the bracket. be careful tightening the metal nut, it is easy to over tighten and break the cable housing at the threads.
Just inside the coarse focus knob you will see a "chrome" ring with holes it it. That ring needs to be tightened just a bit. It will make the coarse focus knob stiffer so tighten only enough to stop the downward drift of the stage.
A funny looking tool should have come with the scope. It is used to adjust this "tension" ring.
Just inside the coarse focus knob you will see a "chrome" ring with holes it it. That ring needs to be tightened just a bit. It will make the coarse focus knob stiffer so tighten only enough to stop the downward drift of the stage. A funny looking tool should have come with the scope. It is used to adjust this "tension" ring.
There is a tension adjustment for this.
It is located on the coarse focus knob which is on the same side as the switch.
It looks like a chrome ring with about 3 holes in it.
A strange looking tool should have come with the scope. It is designed to fit into these holes and allow you to adjust the tension on the coarse focus knob.
You need to tighten it just a little bit. Not too much or you will have trouble operating the coarse focus knobs smoothly.
First, a scope of this grade will not be completely in focus as you move from one magnification to the next. But it should be close enough that you do not loose your point of interest.
Be sure you are not pressing down on the stage specimen platform as you change magnifications. It is very sensitive to pressure.
Also, be sure that the coarse focus tension is tight enough that the platform is not drifting down imperceptibly as switch magnifications. Look through the scope and watch if the image goes out of focus while you are watching it. If so, you have what is called "stage drift".
This is corrected by tightening the tension on the coarse focus knob.
The tension adjustment is on the coase focus shaft. It looks like a chrome ring with about 3 holes in it. There should have been a strange looking tool that came with your scope. It is used to adjust the tension. If your specimen is "drifting" out of focus, simply tighten the tension ring a little bit at a time until the specimen no longer goes out of focus. Do not get it so tight that it is not easy to operate the coarse focus knob.
You need to tighten the coarse adjustment so it generates enough friction to keep the stage in place. How to tighten it will vary from scope to scope, but most just have the screws on the knob (metal circle inside the knob with two holes in it). To adjust this type, you'll need a special key wrench.