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The wig-wag can be tested with an ohm or multimeter. The wigwag plug must be disconnected in the tiller console or at the split-frame connector. Speed dial must be turned up all the way. Measure the wigwag with the ohm meter from the outer most tabs. It should read 5,000 ohms +/- 5%. Then measure center tab to either outer tab. When in "neutral" position it should read 2,500 ohms +/- 10%. If the wigwag is in tolerance I would have the batteries and battery harnesses checked next. Each battery should be charged and tested by a battery shop. These should be 12volt 18-35amp hour batteries.
If the batteries test fine then you have a wiring issue where a loose or corroded wire is dropping voltage under load. Sometimes these types of "bad" connections will cause the wire/connector to become warm or even discolor the connector/wire.
WOW you have a old washer its been a few years since i even heard "wigwag" now then their are a few possiblities;
1) the belt is loose/streched..is their more than a 1/2inch play in it...if yes try adjusting it by loosing top bolt on motor bracket and tighten belt by using hammer and push motor bracket to the left
2) are the plungers on the wigwag straight..if they are bent the plungers need replacing
3) is a wire on the wigwag broken..after years of "oscillating" a wire will break..the side with the red and white wire is for the spin
4) the lever that is pulled by the red wire side of the wigwag hanging up..check spring on back part of transmission to be good and pulling down the plate it attaches to when wigwag has positioned that lever in spin position
5) finally..when the above mentioned lever is in spin position( lever moves toward the rear) is the pulley above and in the center of the transmission spinning free or is it turning...if it spins free when lever is set to spin it should not spin free but move the tub to spin
Here are the part numbers;
WIGWAG w/the plungers...89814
Thanks for taking me down a trip on memeory lane..its been since 1987 that Whirlpool has made a washer with a belt all are direct drive and its been a few years (several) since i have worked on on as "vintage" as the one you have...but like riding a bicycle i have never forgot :)
Sounds to me like your WigWag switch is bad. I know name sounds funny, but it is the switch that makes it go back and forth (WigWag) and agitate. It is a small unit with two wires going to it. Usually about in the center if looking from under the machine.
Well if this is a belt driven model then your solenoid coil is bad. This model 's motor only revolves in one direction. To spin it has to shift gears. It does this by means of a solenoid mounted on the transmission called a wigwag. Note: if the lid switch is bad no power can go to the wigwag and shift it. If this is a direct drive model(no belt) then it has to be a bad lid switch.
To activate factory wigwags in a 2007/2008 Police Dodge Charger, connect pin 1 of the 24way upfitter connector found at the console (near the radio) to battery voltage -- the 47k series resistor is only required for MY2006.
That connection causes the VSIM module (located under the AM/FM radio) to send a CAN message to the FrontControlModule, where the front control module drives the headlights in the wigwag mode.
Pin 2 of the upfitter connector does the rear wigwags.
Some of the pinout of the 2008 upfitter connector from the VSIM to the console is different than 2006/2007 -- a Chrysler harness booboo for 2008.
Note that the VSIM (also known as PTIM) module is only on factory police Chargers -- civilian cars do not have this module.