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It could be a few things. The most common is that the charger was zapped during a lightning storm or a power surge. This would require you to replace the charger. Another reason could be that your battery voltage level is too low some chargers will not come on if the voltage level is below 16v. This sometimes requires the batteries to be replaced. Get them load tested before you replace them by your local battery shop to determine if they need to be charged or replaced. The last thing that is not very common but happens is that the inline fuse has been blown. If this has happened, you will need a qualified service tech to determine the reason the fuse was blown. This should never be the problem unless ther is a serious problem with your wiring.
Nothing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times: I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!
1.Home breaker flipped or the fuse blown?Possibly an electrical surge has flipped the breaker. Check your breaker or fuse box and replace or reset as necessary.
2.Power cord plugged in?Grab the plug and wiggle to determine a good connection.
3.Power cord damage?Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires.
4.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
6.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.
If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.
With electronic controlled appliances today and in this case your dishwasher. The printed circuit board (PCB) transformers are very susceptible to power surges. The windings are just large enough for the normal operational voltages. Anything above or below that range causes the windings to fail rapidly. When they fail you do not get the 5V or 3.3 V for the LEDs ' and IC chips or the 12V for the controlling the relays for normal operation.
I don't see a model number listed for your dishwasher so I can not provide the replacement part information at this time.
Before I went into the parts changing mode I would first go back and reset every breaker in the house by:
1. Pushing each breaker with conviction to the OFF position. This completely resets the breaker.
2. As you turn each of the breaker ON push hard on the face of the breaker near the center of the main panel to ensure it remains connected / engaged to the main power buss bar.
Then go back and check the dishwasher for signs of life. If it works great! If not.... I will be watching for model number information if you need help with the dishwasher control parts information.
Just a side note... you may want to check your home owners insurance coverage (if your a home owner) to see if it covers repair of equipment other than the one that caused the original problem.
That makes sense, you were pulling well over over 20 amps. It doesn't make sense but it appears the heater failed. I would assume the heater has an electronic control that got zapped by the surge generated by the vacuum cleaner when the breaker tripped. If it is not an expensive heater just get a replacement. Unless you are experienced in repairing these things it is much safer just to replace it. Good Luck, Gilshultz
did you change your battery ? there is a procedure for replacement of the cables. If you do it incorrectly odd things happen. It is probably a fuse or a relay out. if you have a owners manual find the ones for those things. but dont change them yet. When changing a battery. Install the Positive side (red) first. but make sure the clamp or fastener is clean. put some petroleum jelly on to keep out corrosion. then install the Negative ( black) otherwise you get a power surge when the computer and other memeory features regain. think of it as a 650 amps or the 15amp fuse in a breaker box in a home .. times 20 surging thru your home computer. Pretty much the same effect. ...household current is 110 volts at 15-30 amps and auto is 650-850 amps and 12volts.