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Re: Makita drop saw is very tight when dropping
I assume when you say drop saw you mean miter box. The bearing and spring are direct targets for debris that is not discharged through the discharge part near the top of saw. Usually sawdust , sap and general dirt can get the hinge/bearing/spring all clogged up. Clean it as best you can with an old toothbrush and then spray with a good quality liquid grease available at a hardware store or Lowes.
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I have an old Craftsman table saw that had this problem. I read the owners manual for your saw and it suggests cleaning and lubricating the height adjustment screw threads with grease. I found that grease is not a good option with all that sawdust blowing around so after cleaning the threads thoroughly I lubricated them with Dri-Coat. It comes in a spray can and does not attract the sawdust like grease would. This should take care of your problem. Let me know if you need a source for the Dri-Coat spray.
The LS1011 doesn't have a table angle release lever like the newer models so it's harder too swing the table from angle to angle, this also causes the plastic swing body to crack. Have you loosened the locking screw for the table? The table may have to be removed and the pivet shaft greased. I had this problem with an old Makita Table Saw 10" 2600.
The screw in the bottom of the chuck is reverse threaded (left tight, right loose). It is also lock-tited so will be hard to remove. Make sure you have a screw driver well seated in the screw and turn it backwards (clockwise) to break it free. Once that is out, lock the short end of an allen wrench (at least 3/8" to 1/2") in the chuck. You'll have to lay the drill on a bench with the long end of the allen wrench hanging over the edge so you can hit it with a hammer hard enough to break the chuch free from the anvil. The chuck is threaded left loose, right tight so hit the wrench to turn the chuck counter clockwise. When you replace the new chuck use a small drop of lock-tite on the anvil threads and screw if it doesn't have some on it already.
Just remove the brush caps. You may need to use a small pick or needle to pop the brushes out. In this diagram reference number 14 is the brush cap. They are just like a screw so you need to turn them to the left (counter clockwise) to remove them.
the gearcase for this saw is under the blade and you would have to remove the blade and the screws holding the gearcase cover in place. There is a small amount of GREASE in this cavity. If you want to replace the grease use a small amount of white lithium type grease. DO NOT pack this area full or you will cause more damage. Let me know if you need more assistance and if you give me the model and brand I will locate a breakdown for you so that you know what is involved.
1. Remove the two screws that hold the guide shoe 2. Pull and wiggle the guide shoe straight forward and out. 3. Remove the metal support from the front of the rubber boot by prying it out of the groove. 4. Using a pick or a very small screwdriver, pry the retaining pin from the blade release handle and remove from the front. It removes without much friction. 5. Remove the blade release handle through the side of the saw by wiggling and releasing the return spring. 6. Remove the rubber boot off the front of the saw by gently prying near the center of the saw and firmly pulling. 7. Remove the six screws to remove the black plastic dust cover. 8. Remove the remaining two screws and lift the grease guard to access the reciprocating mechanism, being careful not to drop the needle-bearings. This area can be packed with grease.
Is the axle tight? Has the tool been dropped to warp the frame? But a quick fix if everything else is OK is to loosen up the axle and put a THIN metal shim on the backside of the axle and then tightening it back down.