Question about Miele 23 in. KM360G Gas Cooktop

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I have 250 chainsaw change coil an plug wires not corroded still on fire what can i do next.

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Check to make sure the ground wire going to the on/off switch is not grounding out anywhere. If that wire is making contact with the metal case it will stop it from creating a spark

Posted on Mar 18, 2014

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Induction is not heating.


Disconnect power from the unit. Open it up to gain access to the coil and controller. Disconnect the coil and use an ohmmeter to check its continuity. If it is open, replace it. Also inspect the connector pins and sockets to make sure they are not corroded or oxidized. (If the connector shell or the wire insulation at the connector show signs of overheating, this is very likely where the problem is.) Clean and polish, or replace the connector contacts if necessary.

If the coil, coil wiring and connector pass, then inspect the controller board - if the coil drive switching device (probably a transistor for a high-frequency induction system) runs hot, it may cause thermal fatigue in the solder on the bottom of the board, leading to a cracked connection. The repair is to remove the burned solder, polish the affected transistor lead with fine-grade Scotch-Brite abrasive, then resolder with lead-free (i. e., high-temperature) solder. It may be necessary to wrap a short piece of 18 or 20 AWG wire around the transistor lead and bridge it across the pad to the circuit trace going to the coil connector if the board is damaged from the heat.

If both of the power connections on the transistor are overheating, the transistor probably does not have a good thermal connection to its heatsink. In that case, you should remove the transistor, clean up the heat sink transfer grease, put a thin film of new heat transfer grease on the transistor, and remount it. (This is not ordinary grease, it's a compound specially made for the job - you can get it at any electronic supply or computer component supplier). If there is a mica insulator sheet between the transistor and heat sink, carefully clean both sides, and apply the heat transfer compound to both sides of the insulator instead of the transistor. Do not apply too much; you want just enough to make sure there is good thermal contact between the adjoining surfaces. If there is a rubber-like sheet between the transistor and heat sink, but no grease, inspect the sheet for tears or hardening, and do not use grease for reinstallation. You may find that the transistor was not flat up against the heat sink because the lead bends held it away from the mounting surface. In that case, tweak the leads using two pairs of needle nose pliers - one next to transistor case to keep the bend from cracking the seal at the case, and the other to bend the lead.

NOTE: do not touch the gate/base lead (left side lead on most power transistors) with your fingers or a tool unless you are first touching the other two leads to discharge any static electricity buildup. The gate is easily damaged by static electricity from your clothing, even if you can't feel it discharge. Likewise, do not put the transistor on plastic unless it is the anti-static kind. The entire controller board should be considered static-sensitve. Handle it only by the edges; avoid touching the circuitry. If you must remove it, place it component side down on your work surface so static discharges from the work surface won't reach the printed wiring on the board, or use an anti-static work mat.

If these measures do not solve the problem, you may have to replace the controller board.

Jul 03, 2015 | Cooktops

1 Answer

Electrical wiring


ones connecting to anther set of plugs red on postive top countuins sending power to next box in a chain

Jan 19, 2008 | Jenn-Air JED8430 Electric Cooktop

1 Answer

We have a JennAire model CP220W-C01 cooktop. We use the old coil type heating elements. There was a flash and smoke from the right front element. A repairperson replaced the connector, only to have it blow...


Unplug the element from the receptacle and then disconnect the receptacle from the point where it plugs into the stove. Now, carefully, turn on power to this heating element. If nothing happens then you have removed the likelihood of a problem in the large portion of the stove's wiring. Next, plug the receptacle cable back into the stove without connecting the heating element. Again, carefully turn on the power to the heating element in question. If there is no spark then the cable, connector and receptacle are ok. If it does spark, replace the receptacle and cable assembly. No spark, then inspect the heating element where it connects to the receptacle. Look for melting or signs of damaged insulation that would allow for a "dead short". If you see damage to the element then replace the element. No damage, clean the connections with a toothbrush, and plug the element back in and turn on the juice. If it sparks again, replace the element. Good luck and be careful. Don't attempt any of this if you are inexperienced in working with electricity. 220 Volts can cause death or serious injury... just the flash from an arc can cause blindness and burns.

Nov 05, 2013 | Jenn-Air Cooktops

1 Answer

Coil element on kitchen aid model ker1201 slow to


some of the coiled eyes have two coils(elements). one of the coils can burn into at any point around the element rendering it useless while the other can still work. when you lift the glass top you will see the elements are shaped like springs. the elements metal is very britlle.it is you have to replace the entire eye to fix it. the coil most likely had a very gap in the break and acted like a short making and breaking connection until the gap was too wide then nothing. easy fix. just replace the entire eye (power UNPLUGGED!!!) match the old wires with the new part as you take the old part off. I mark them even with a sharpie. it has 3 to 5 wires on that plug into the eye unit. estimated cost for the part online is about 40 to 65 bucks.

Jun 07, 2009 | KitchenAid 30 in. KECC506R Electric...

2 Answers

All 4 burners are firing although the knobs are all in the "off" position. I can't get them to stop firing.


Unplug the oven for at least 30 minutes. Plug it back in and see if it stops. If not, the control board has a problem (could be just bad connections).

May 16, 2009 | Magic Chef 30 in. 8241RT Gas Cooktop

2 Answers

Whirlpool Cooktop igniters keep firing, even after igniting


when you cleaned the unit you may have gotten water in side the igniter, dry it out w/ a hair dryer. Once dry should work .

Mar 29, 2009 | Dacor Preference SGM365SS Gas Cooktop

1 Answer

Ignitors all quit working.


I am solving the same problem on my thermador cooktop now. From what I can tell there is an electrical box inside the unit that generates the spark. called the ignition control unit or ignition device. I bought a new unit at http://wwaparts.com/index.php and had it on my doorstep the next day. The next trip is taking off the burners to get inside your cooktop so you can replace it.

Oct 08, 2008 | Jenn-Air 34 in. Expressions CVGX2423 Gas...

1 Answer

Chef Electric Hotplates


Never...ever change the fuse rating upward on an existing circuit to accomodate a new appliance. The fuse is a protective device designed to limit current to the level the wiring can safely handle. There is a strong possibility of fire at some point!!!!

If you are rewiring, most places require up to 30 amps for cooktop wiring anyway. Use #10 copper wire for that purpose. If you are doing this yourself, make all connections tight and install all grounds.

Jun 14, 2008 | Cooktops

2 Answers

Ge 36


You may need to consult near you an electrial engineer this couild be happened you need to design all parts of igniton line / many thing to change replace the switch knobs iugniter tips terminals and wirings also high voltage igniter coil. so many thing thing to buy.

Jan 07, 2008 | GE 36 in. Profile JGP963 Stainless Steel...

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