Sears only shows the purchase of a new armature or new motor. They do not show this bearing seperately. This route will end up being just short of purchasing a new saw. Correctly measured, the bearing can be purchased through a bearing supplier. I have a good automotive parts supplier that was able to obtain the bearings I needed. I caught the problem quickly and was able to salvage the rear housing. The housing is available from Sears for approximaely $30 if yours needs replacement.
Find a local tool repair shop and they should have the right bearing on hand for repair - This is what I have done and they had both the rear and front bearing - It cost me 40$ to have them both changed
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Sounds like the bearings are wearing out. Is the blade wobbly? Does it squeal like a pig? If so, the bearings are shot. You will be able to replace the bearing on a high dollar saw. If its and off brand or homeowner type, buy a new one.
I looked up your model and it is VERY similar to that of a Frigidaire model. Same rear bearing as a Frigidaire type. The front of the drum rides on felt. The controls are all quick connected with molex blocks so that is not an issue. I ran across a homemade video of the bearing being replaced by a homeowner who is by no means a tech just a guy who can git her done!
Most likely the front drum supports (either rollers or slides) are worn out, forcing the drum to slide over an uneven surface. If the drum is supported in the rear on rollers, these could also be the problem. Rear axle/bearing mounted mechanisms can also cause this problem.
Less likely is a worn belt or worn idler pulley bearing. All these components can be replaced by a reasonably skilled homeowner, although the dryer will have to be disassembled to do so.
Go to midlandhardware.com.For about $4.00 more than just price ofthe motor,you get the complete saw 15amp.motor with a laser guide!The table saw has a 3yr. warranty,3 extension wings,and a sturdy stand.Shipping to your door $24.00,$198.58 total.
Sears no longer sells repair parts for this motor, only the whole motor as a replacement part, and it is $140.00, but you can buy replacement bearings from drillspot.com the bearing needed is an Enduro 6200 zz c3
SOUNDS LIKE THE PROBLEM I HAD, BUT WAS JUST A SEIZED-UP BEARING. I WENT TO LOCAL ELECTRIC MOTOR REPAIR ($15.74) PARTS AND LABOR, THEY REPLACED THE BEARING, THERE ARE 2 BEARINGS ON IT, COST IS THE SAME FOR EACH. THE BEARING IS PRESSED ON, SO REPLACEABLE. HOPE THIS HELPED
did you check the pulley on the crank shaft ??
is it warped ?? ( bent )
because i do not think that the truck will run with the crankshaft moving.....back and forth.
so in any case you have a lot of work to do.
here is how to remove the crank shaft. REMOVAL
Identify bearing caps before removal. Remove bearing caps and bearings one at a time.
Lift the crankshaft out of the block.
Remove and discard the crankshaft rear oil seals.
Remove and discard the front crankshaft oil seal.
Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine oil.
Install the new upper rear bearing oil seal with the white paint facing towards the rear of the engine.
Position the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine oil.
Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into the bearing cap with the white paint facing towards the rear of the engine.
Apply 5 mm (0.20 inch) drop of Loctite 518, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main bearing cap. DO NOT over apply sealant or allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assemble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after sealant application.
lb align the bearing cap, use cap slot, alignment dowel and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap more than 2 times for proper engagement.
Clean and oil all cap bolts. Install all main bearing caps. Install all cap bolts and alternately tighten to 115 Nm (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
Apply Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap to block joint to provide cap to block and oil pan sealing. Apply enough sealant until a small amount is squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess sealant off the oil pan seal groove.
Install new front crankshaft oil seal.
Immediately install the oil Dan.
if you have an email address i can send some images