Question about GE 5.8 Cu. Ft. Extra-Large Capacity Electric Dryer

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Need to know the name of the ceramic connector for the heating element wire coil

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Heat cuts out shortly after dryer starts. Have taken apart several times. First replaced thermal cut off (tested bad) and thermostat. Element ok. Good airflow. Dryer seems to heat up very quickly and very...


Sure can!
Most Kenmore style dryers have a heating element that has a long wire coil inside it, (often there are two wires or elements inside one housing). Regardless, if you have carefully checked the air exhaust, and you find it is "perfect" ( means no back-up heat from a plugged or impeded air flow) and you have determined the air flow inside the machine is like new, ( no back up there either), then what has possible happened is the wire heating element has wiggled loose and is touching itself, thereby shorting out and making super heat.
The wire coils are usually held loosely in place with white ceramic rings, to keep them from touching the metal housing. If you carefully remove the heating element "box or "tube" and look inside , you may be able to see the problem. Testing it with an ohm meter will not work, it will simply test OK. The element is made to heat at a certain temperature according to it's length, if it touches itself, the elecrttricity will take the shortest route and may make your element glow white hot in one spot. Be blessed.

Sep 02, 2013 | Kenmore Series 70 80 90 PN281798 Dryer...

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Lhe5700wo won't heat after power outage


the heating element may have burnt out , you can purchase on for around $25 dollars , also check thermostats, I usually find where the heating element has burned into, then spice it back together with a stainless steel electrical **** connector , check with ohm meter . heating element runs in a metal box shaped container and looks like a spring coiling through ceramic insulators .

Mar 13, 2012 | Dryers

1 Answer

Heater bionaire bch9224-cn no heat


The Bionaire BCH9224-CN is a ceramic space heater, one of apparently 4 related units. The 9224 is the tallest in the family and I also have the shorter BCH9212-CN. They are electric so I have no idea what all this talk about 'gas', 'pilot light' and 'flame' is. My 9224 failed in a way that seems quite common with Bionaire space heaters in general, namely, first the smell of burning electrical insulation, then a snap or pop accompanied by a flash of light out the lower side, and then no more heat. It is possible that the original questioner had this happen but wasn't around to witness it. Now it is possible that the failure is in the electrical control board but in my case (and in fact I'm betting for many or most of the Bionaire failures) it was a wire running to the ceramic heating block (element) that fried at the connection to the ceramic element. I would say it is very unlikely the failures of the Bionaires are in the ceramic heater blocks themselves, and in fact the 9224 and the 9212 (and I assume many or most of the other Bionaires) actually have two ceramic blocks/elements fastened together, one being used for the 750 watt heating and both for the 1500 watt heating. The central wire running to the blocks must support enough current (about 12.5 amps) for both of the blocks, whereas the wires to the individual blocks need half that (about 6.25 amps). In my 9224 unit the weak spot was clearly where the central, common wire was connected to the spade-like connector that was crimped onto the central, common tab of the ceramic block pair. At first I thought I'd just toss the thing but then I opened it up, did the autopsy and repaired it by replacing the 3 wires from the circuit board to the ceramic blocks with 14 gauge wire, and made the connection of the wires to the three soft metal (tin or tin alloy?) tabs of the ceramic blocks by carefully drilling holes in the tabs and bolting eye, crimp-type wire connectors to the tabs using small screws. Oddly enough I opened up the smaller unit (the BCH9212-CN) and it has the same ceramic element pair but no indication of burnt wires.

Jan 08, 2012 | Bionaire Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Wires to heating element keep burning off


One of the creramic insulators that hold the heater elements may have broken allowing the element to ground out to the metal casing creating a short.
Also a loose wire or crimped connection where the heater element connects will create overheating and eventually a shortout.
If a ceramic insulator is broken, its probably best to purchace a replacement element wich may be available thru appliance parts online.
a loose factory connection can be replaced with a screw type wire connector be sure it will withstand the heat and amperage.

Aug 27, 2011 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

Not getting hot


Hello there and welcome to fixya
There are many things that can cause a no heat symptom in an electric dryer, here is a list of possible causes in order of likelihood or ease of access.
  1. An open fuse/breaker in the house fuse panel. There are 2 fuses or breakers for the dryer, both must be good in order for the dryer to function properly. If one is open, it is possible for the dryer to run but not generate heat. In the case of breakers, try resetting them as sometimes one of the two can open but not physically tip the mechanical lever.
  • An open thermal fuse in the dryer. Some models use a thermal safety limiter or thermal fuse which could open the circuit to the heat element. These are used to prevent a runaway or over heat condition and are often found mounted to the blower or heater element housing (see the links below for examples). These devices are a fairly current development and may not be found on very old dryers.

    alertbubble.gif Note: If this is the cause of your current problem (pardon the pun), I strongly suggest you check the vent for obstructions and ensure its length meets the manufacturers recommended limitations, the shorted the better. Failure of this part could be the first indication of a potential fire hazard in the dryer!
  • The element coil is burnt out. Dryer elements are bare wires coiled like springs, when they fail the wire will break opening the circuit. This breakage could be intermittent, only opening as the element expands as it heats. Sometimes the element coil has to be physically checked for breakages, especially where the coil goes through ceramic insulator which could hide a breakage from plain view.
  • Depending on the brand and style, the replacement element may be just the coiled wire that has to be mounted into the original element housing. On other models the element assembly comes already mounted on a frame that then in installed into the element housing or directly into the dryer. Whichever the case, the element coil has to be replaced not just joined together using connectors.
    Open switches.These can include the heat selector switch mounted on the console panel, one of the thermostats (from 2 to 5 on some models) mounted in various locations of the internal dryer ducting, the motor switch or the heater contacts of the timer or a 'heater relay' on newer models with an electronic heat control mechanism.

    Aug 16, 2011 | Dryers

    1 Answer

    Dryer wont heat up


    check to make sure that the element doesent have a break in it it might be hiding inside one of the ceramic holders if you have a volt meter disconect elect connectors and use ohms scale no beep or meter does not regestor bad element ps there is a thermal overload connected follow the element wires you will see it two wires check it also with meter

    Apr 12, 2010 | Magic Chef CYE4000AWW Electric Dryer

    1 Answer

    I have a GE profile 3 years old. It won't heat


    There are many things that can cause a no heat symptom in an electric dryer, here is a list of possible causes in order of likelihood or ease of access.

    1. An open fuse/breaker in the house fuse panel.
    There are 2 fuses or breakers for the dryer, both must be good in order for the dryer to function properly. If one is open, it is possible for the dryer to run but not generate heat. In the case of breakers, try resetting them as sometimes one of the two can open but not physically tip the mechanical lever.

    2. An open thermal fuse in the dryer.
    Some models use a thermal safety limiter or thermal fuse which could open the circuit to the heat element. These are used to prevent a runaway or over heat condition and are often found mounted to the blower or heater element housing (see the links below for examples). These devices are a fairly current development and may not be found on very old dryers.

    Note: If this is the cause of your current problem (pardon the pun), I strongly suggest you check the vent for obstructions and ensure its length meets the manufacturers recommended limitations, the shorted the better. Failure of this part could be the first indication of a potential fire hazard in the dryer!

    3. The element coil is burnt out.
    Dryer elements are bare wires coiled like springs, when they fail the wire will break opening the circuit. This breakage could be intermittent, only opening as the element expands as it heats. Sometimes the element coil has to be physically checked for breakages, especially where the coil goes through ceramic insulator which could hide a breakage from plain view. Depending on the brand and style, the replacement element may be just the coiled wire that has to be mounted into the original element housing. On other models the element assembly comes already mounted on a frame that then in installed into the element housing or directly into the dryer. Whichever the case, the element coil has to be replaced not just joined together using connectors.

    4. A burnt wire or wire connector. Replace the burnt wire connector and/or wire and inspect the component terminal it was attached to. If any sign of charring or discoloration are visible on the component's terminal or repeated failures occur at that same location, replace the component the terminal is part of. Such items can include the main power junction terminal block (very common), thermodiscs (thermostats), heat selector switch, centrifugal switch (on the motor) or the timer.

    Feb 20, 2010 | GE Dryers

    1 Answer

    Will run but will not heat up


    Most likely a bad heating element and or bad thrmostats. you'll need to check these by ohming out after removing the rear panel to your dryer.

    NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

    Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

    Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

    Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

    If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

    Oct 26, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

    1 Answer

    It keeps running non-stop but wont heat up


    Your temperature thermostat or heater coil is most likely bad, you can test by ohming each. NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

    Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

    Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

    Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

    If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

    Oct 26, 2009 | Whirlpool LEB6300 Electric Dryer

    1 Answer

    How do you replace a bad heating element? I purchased a replacement set of elements but the old elements appear to have been welded to the wires and the new ones would need to be welded also? No...


    Hey Bill,
    The few things I know about heating elements is for 1, they can be a pain to replace, if you put them on wrong or have any of the element touching itself, there will be problems.2, It doesnt necessarily need connectors, it just sits on the metal post that stick out, thats what supplies the power to the coil. Hope this helps.

    Jun 29, 2009 | DeLonghi AD679 Airstream Electric Single...

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