Question about Garmin 185 Sounder GPS Receiver

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Having powerup problem

Fuse ok, ground ok, Power at power pin and ground at ground pin in end of cable. Opened back of case and have power and ground at power strip. When I push power button, the screen darkens but will not display any of my menue pages or GPS data, or transducer data, and will not power off. Its like the unit is dead. It has been used rarely and I keep it in a dry box when not used. Male and female pins look ok. No discoloration or burns on pc board. What about the battery? looks like a lithium memory battery of some kind. Did not remove to look at or test.

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  • jdlangjr Jun 14, 2009

    Still DOA

    Acts like it is on because screen goes a little dark but still will not respond or turn back off. Weird

  • jdlangjr Jun 18, 2009

    This problem is not the battery.

  • jdlangjr Jun 22, 2009

    Removed battery for about one hour. Tested the battery and it has 3 volts like it should. Put it back in, and now when I try to power up the screen goes dark and then turns right back off. it didn't do that before. Before, I had to unplug to get the screen off. In any case, I get no menues or other signs of life.



3 Answers

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This looks thike a inverter that went out in this lcd withc couses the display to become blacked to you will not see anything the inverter is a part of th screen so both will need ot be replaced at this point.

Do not shoot the messagner but my soltuon will be to replace the lcd withinverter at this point


Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

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U say it isn't the battery? not so sure here, what is the voltage reading at the battery when u attempt turn the unit on, don't assume it is any good, that is a very common mistake, do the tests and you will find the problem. Let me know the results

Posted on Jun 18, 2009

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Hi there,

Yes, remove the battery and insert it back after 10 minutes.
It this trick do not work than you try changing a new battery (coz. it seems like battery problem).

Good Luck!!

Posted on Jun 14, 2009

  • Mukesh Kumar Jun 14, 2009

    Its because of a fault display ic, need to change that ic.



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What engine?

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I’m happy to assist further over the phone at

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Where is the fuse for the cigarette lighter on a 1964 ford fairlane?

There's only one fuse block on the old cars, in the instrument panel on the driver's side. If the fuses are not labeled, use a test light to check every fuse. Only takes 5 minutes.
These are the old style fuses, with a round cylindrical clear glass in the middle? They push into metal clips on each end of the fuse?

Then ground a test light to a good ground under the dash- a bolt, screw, or metal. Now turn the key to ON. Every fuse should now be powered. Touch one end of the fuse or the metal clips with the test light-it should light up. If it doesn't, recheck the ground clip of tester-have to have a good ground. A good fuse will light the tester on both ends of the fuse. A bad or blown fuse will only light the tester on one end of the fuse. Power comes in on one side of the fuse terminal, and if the fuse is good, power will also be on both ends or terminals of the fuse.
A few fuses are hot at all times- the horn, tail lights, and brake lights for example. With key on, all fuses are hot-should have power on them. Modern fuses can be tested this way as well-all modern fuses have a test port on each end of the top of the fuse-this port is open to the metal strip inside the fuse. If power is on both ends of the fuse at the test ports, that fuse is good-you don't have to take it out to inspect-use a test light and check for blown fuses this way.

To test a cig. lighter: Ground the test light lead. Pull out the lighter. Use the needle probe of tester and carefully touch the center element inside the lighter base-the heating element-don't let the probe touch the sides of the case when touching the heating element-you may blow the fuse. If the lighter is good, with key on, the element should have power-will light up the tester. If the base part is good, has power, then maybe the pull out piece that lights cigarettes is bad. Or the lighter case is not grounded good. Some are case grounded to the metal dash, but some may have a ground wire on the back side of the base, behind the dash-check for that. The power wire to the lighter attaches at the center of the lighter base. If there is a ground wire, it will be attached on the side of the base, again this is behind the dash.

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Atx motherboard wiring diagram

For the power cables from the Power Supply? Or Power Supply, and Front Panel header on the motherboard?

For both of these you need to state the computer manufacturer name, and Model Number.
Post back in a Comment.

If you just wish a generic, one-size-fits-all explanation;

A) 20 or 24-pin ATX main power cable.

The older computers use a 20-pin ATX main power cable. As computers needed more power to the motherboard, the 24-pin ATX main power cable was brought out,

Scroll the page down for info on the 24-pin ATX main power cable.

[ Much older motherboards (AT) used two main power cables. { In the link - Original PC main power cables} ]

B) 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable.
Was brought out because Processors needed more power, than the 24-pin ATX main power cable feeding the motherboard, could deliver.

Power for the Processor,

C) 4-pin standard Peripheral power cable
Commonly misnomered as 'Molex'.

Molex was a model name given by the first manufacturer, of this design of power cable connector.
The name stuck. Kind of like referring to an adjustable open-end wrench as a Crescent wrench.

It is also referred to as a 4-pin Standard Peripheral power cable, because there are two styles of 4-pin Peripheral power cables.

4-pin Standard Peripheral power cable,

Generally used for IDE (PATA) harddrives, and IDE optical drives.

4-pin Small Peripheral power cable,

Older computers used it for power to the Floppy Drive. It's generally used now to provide power for a Card Reader.

Note that both types of connectors use the same power wires, and 2 ground wires.
Yellow is 12 Volts
Red is 5 Volts
Black is Ground

[ Also, in the ATX main power cable:
Orange is 3.3 Volts, the Green wire is the Soft Power On wire. Abbreviated as PS_ON.

Power Supply plugged into power, the Soft Power On wire is briefly touched to ANY Ground wire. This is bypassing the Power On switch.
If the computer (Power Supply) comes on, you have a bad Power On switch.
IF the computer (Power Supply) does NOT come on, you have a bad Power Supply ]

(ALL Black wires are Ground wires. They all lead back to one central Ground point.
ALL power wires lead back to one point in the power supply, for EACH power wire.

The 12 Volt power wires, (Yellow), all lead back to one point in the Power Supply.
This is the 12 Volt power rail.

The 5 Volt power wires, (Red), all lead back to one point in the Power Supply.
This is the 5 Volt power rail.

The 3.3 Volt power wires, (Orange), all lead back to one point in the Power Supply.
This is the 3.3 Volt power rail ]

D) SATA power cable
15-pin power cable for SATA harddrives, and SATA optical drives,

[ The smaller 7-pin SATA connector is the interface cable, or data cable.

IF, you have a SATA harddrive that has a provision for a SATA power cable, AND a 4-pin standard Peripheral power cable, ONLY use the SATA power cable.

It will burn out the harddrive if you use both. It may not do it right away, but eventually it will.
I have had people state over the years, that they were using both power cables. Came back two months later to tell me their harddrives had burned out ]

More to follow in a Comment.


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Looking at the connector, there are 3 rows of pins.
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If you are trying to connect two JVC units, you will need an 8-pin cable that has the SAME pins connected on each side. You will need to test this using a multimeter set to ohms or 'connectivity'.
There are other 8-pin cables out there like the one for apple networking, but they use a crossover pinout where pin 1 on one end = pin 3 on the other end. This is bad. JVC needs pin 1 to = pin 1.

This is a standard connector/pinout setup that JVC uses, so connecting a TH-C3 to a TH-C50 works fine. There is a bunch of intermixing that you can get away with. The only thing to keep an eye on is the power in watts that one unit sends and the other recieves. Worst case is that the speakers are quiter than expected or that you can turn the volume up so high that it can damage the speakers. In all cases, you should get desired volume somewhere on the dial.

If you are trying to wire the speaker set custom, then you will need to take note that an '8-pin' connector is actually a 9-wire connector. Along with the above pinout, you will need to add Case Ground, which is the metal circle that surrounds the pins. To make the speakers turn on, you will need to apply 12v to the Power On pin and ground the 12v source to the Case Ground outer ring.
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1 Answer

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You may have a short between the board & the case. (check it).
Even if this means removing the board. That clicking you hear through the speakers suggest a short. Make sure your using (Stand offs) which keeps your board off the case's mounting surface. Check the back plate so the tabs are touching the ports comming off the board for good ground.
Double check the you have fully connected both the main power ATX_ 20 pin power connector & the auxiliary 4-pin power
connector. pg. 10. Connecting 20/24-pin power cable Remove & re-seat. If your PSU has a 20 pin connector make sure you connect the cable from the correct end.
Without POST you will not get video to load. Reset your bios
pg. 9 in your manual. Re-enter your bios and setup the bios settings for your board.

Let me know if this helps you reach POST?
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