You need to remove your positive connection at the battery first. Now you connect one end of test light to battery clamp, and the other to battery. Make sure they have good contact. Test light will light up anytime there is a draw. The brighter the light, the more draw there is. Start by removing one fuse at a time and watch for light to go out, or at least dim quite a bit, and leave it out & record which one it was. The ideal way to do it is to remove all fuses, making sure light is out completely, then start re-installing them and watch for one that light comes on bright. That will tell you which circuit is causing the excess draw. If you think that will get you in trouble, or confused, just pull one at a time and if no difference in light, put it back in. Just leave those that make light dimmer, out, making sure you note where they go. That way if you have 2 or 3 with slight draw, (like radio, clock etc.,) but 1 with big draw, then you can zero in on that circuit as the culprit. Take's a little time, but it works.
There was a significant power draw with the test light. I checked with my volt meter from +post to + cable and it read 11.38 volts. I found a 40amp breaker ACC/BACKUP that killed all draw when removed. I put it back in and started checking each fuse starting from under the hood and then inside the cab. I found #7 fuse on drivers side reduced the draw to 10.6volts when removed but no other fuse or relay dropped it lower after that. I checked both boxes under hood, and both inside boxes, one on driver's side and the other on passenger side. Is there any other box I have missed.
Obviously 11.38 volts shows that draw is still there, especially on a new battery. I'm a little confused regarding the fact that your saying you removed # 7 fuse and voltage dropped to10.6. Are you sure on that? When fuse is removed, if that circuit is a significant draw, the test light should dim, and voltage reading should increase if anything?
A little more info for you Danny. That 40A breaker/fuse, appears to be feeding about 5 fuse cavities in fuse panel under dash on drivers side. Try testing for power at fuse #'s 5,6,7,8,9, with that 40A in, then out, and see if they are the right ones.Those 5 circuits (possibly one of those is not used at all-no fuse) power a lot of the accesories such as mirrors, power stations(plug in for chargers etc) sliding door modules, interior lights etc. Long list. Try pulling those 5 all together and see what happens to test light then. If it goes out, or really dim, start putting them in one at a time and see what happens to test light as you go. The one that is put back in and causes the test light to become the brightest, is the one causing the most draw. That should help to narrow it down.
Sorry, I'm referring to the 40A under hood marked ACC/Backup.
Hi Mike, here is where I'm at. Battery tested across + to - at 12.40
Sorry I didn't mean to hit enter yet. Battery tested at 12.40 With all fuses in and testing from + to + cable (disconnected) it read 11.67 but steadily dropped .01 at a steady rate. test light was very bright with a very slight pulsing. With #5 and #7 fuses out tested at 12.40 steady. Test light was out, no light. With #7 fuse out only it tested at 10.60 but had steady .01 increase and increase slowed as it approached and passed 11.0 but continued to rise. Test light was very dim but had strong pulsing. With #7 fuse in, and #5 fuse out tested at 12.40 steady. Test light was bright but had a bit more pulsing. I thought with the reading of 12.40 on that last scenario the test light would be dead but it was as bright as the bright reading on one of the earlier tests. Can you tell me what this means, or what I should do next.
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Have the alternator check if it is charging the right voltage, you have used the new battery for 2 days before it went dead again it means that the alternator is not giving enough charge to the battery, if you jump start the engine let it run on idle remove one cable from battery the engine would stall or stop if the alternator is not charging, replace
SOURCE: Radio Code Needed
look in your owners packet sometimes there is a card in there with code otherwise will have to get from honda
SOURCE: Charging system
change your battery cables and check all wires on the alternator for loose connections, expecially the grounds.
SOURCE: 87 f250 drained brand new battery
I would first have the alternator checked by an auto electrician to ensure it is working correctly and is providing the correct volume of current. It may be faulty and when driving you will be drawing battery power instead of power from the alternator to run the electrics. This will drain the battery.
Alternators do not last forever and if you are still running the original unit it is likely to be on it's last legs and you will need a replacement unit.
SOURCE: Honda Odyssey -DVD stuck in "Loading" after dead battery replaced
I have identical issue, took it to the dealer and they "offered" to remove the unit and send it for repair..... not very helpfull.
SOURCE: 2002 Honda Odyssey will not start. Everything is
We've had our 02 Odussey do this a few times in the 8 years we've owned it, each time one or more interior lights were left on, usually one of the rear passenger map lights. Simple jump start and a few miles of driving to get it charged back up and all is fine. (IHMO battery capacity isn't sufficcent for all the accessories.)
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Hi Danny , I want to help you with your problem, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box? Do you have a multimeter that will test for amp draw? Perhaps a 12 volt test light? Are you familiar with using 12 volt test light to find draw?
I have a volt meter for my work, but I am not sure how to use it to test for amp draw, and I do have a 12 volt test light. Again though, I don't know how to use it to test for draw.
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