Sump drains but keeps switching on and off - Zoeller M53 Mighty Mate Iron Body, Poly Base Automatic Sump Pump 1/3 HP

GENERAL INFO ERROR CODES PROBLEM PARTS SOLUTION E1 NOT ENOUGH WATER INLET VALVE CLEAN OR REPLACE E2 NOT DRAINING DRAIN PUMP KINKED HOSE--ADJUST HOSE TOO HIGH--ADJUST PUMP FAULTY--REPLACE E3 WATER TEMP TOO COOL THERMOSTAT STAT OPEN--REPLACE TIMER CONTACTS OPEN-- REPLACE HEATER OPEN--- REPLACE ABOVE FAULTS CAN ALSO CAUSE TIMER TO STALL(TIMER STOPS TO ALLOW HEATING OF WATER) TIMER WOULD STALL AT THE 2,5,7 AND 10 O'CLOCK POSITION E4 OVERFLOW SWITCH ACTIVATED CHECK FLOAT IS FREE CHECK LEVEL OF D/W SOAP- AMOUNT AND KIND WASHARM STUCK OR SPLIT E5 E6 & E7 TEMP SENSOR THERMOSTAT REPLACE ERROR CODES: DDW497W Problem Solution Error 1 Water supply is turned off Turn water supply on Detached / damaged pipe Replace / readjust pipe Low water pressure Requires min. 0.04Mpa water pressure Defective water fill valve Replace water fill valve Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective pressure switch Replace pressure switch Heavy water usage elsewhere in home Use unit when water usage is at a minimum Defective electric control Replace electric control Error 2 Sump or filter is obstructed Clear the sump and filter Damaged/defective drain pump Repair or replace drain pump Drain hose is obstructed or detached Clear out/readjust drain hose/tighten clamps Defective pressure switch Replace pressure switch Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 3 Voltage is too low Minimum voltage of 198 V Damaged/ defective thermostat Replace the thermostat Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring NTC thermistor damaged/out of position Replace or readjust the thermistor Damaged/ defective heating element Replace the heating element Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 4 Sump or filter is obstructed Clear the sump and filter Loose or damaged sump pump/drain pump Repair or replace sump pump/drain pump Drain hose is obstructed or detached Clear out/readjust drain hose/tighten clamps Defective pressure switch Replace pressure switch Loose heater element Tighten heater element mounting nuts Loose spray arm Tighten spray arm Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Defective Microswitch Replace microswitch Float- defective or not in the right position Reajust / replace float Error 5 Damaged/ defective power switch Replace power switch Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 6 NTC thermistor damaged/out of position Replace or readjust the thermistor Temperature is too low Temperature should be above -20? Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 7 NTC thermistor damaged/out of position Replace or readjust the thermistor Temperature is too high Temperature should be below 120? Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric contr

in what way is the oil a problem..?
does it keep saying there is no oil ?
if it is saying this there is three parts you need to check.
1. is the breather for the sump. ( pipe coming from the bottom to the top of the engine.. ( can become clogged with burnt oil )
2. the oil switch on the sump. ( check for water in the plug if is replace the seal)
3. you need to take off the cam cover and clean out the oil drains. ( burnt oil can block the drain holes).

When you say ices up do you mean the line ices up back to the compressor. is water overflowing over sump tray? or is it dumping out drain? If you are not getting water over the evaporator plate then it will frost up the evaporator plat all the way back to the compressor.if the water is dumping into the drain during freeze cycle check the dump valve this will not let sump tray stay full of water. make sure water filter is good as this will not let sump tray stay full fast enough. is water pump pumping water over the evap plate?

there is an electronic solenoid near where the drainhose connects to the sump that changes the waterflow direction from recirculate(washing), to evacuate (draining). this is electronically controlled by the timer. you can test the power leads at the solenoid for voltage when it sould be draining. if none then the timer is faulty. if there is voltage then the solenoid is faulty. if the solenoid is engageing, then the water diverter is faulty. if the water diverter is broken, replace the dishwasher.
overflowing is another problem of its own. the water level float/ sensor is not working and could be caked with detergent. work the float from the inside of the dishwasher, it should move freely. if so, then there is a switch connected to the float on the underside. test it with an ohmmeter. if bad replace it. if it is an electronically timed water level control then it could be a problem with the timer as well, but with hotpoint they are usually manual.

It is a long drain error and appears when the washer is not fully drained after 10 minutes of draining. It can be due to a clogged or kinked drain hose, clogged pump filter, or the pump is not working properly.

LG Front Load Washers Drain Problem Troubleshooting and Repair Guide

1. Remove the two screws on the back of the top panel securing it to the cabinet.
2. Slide the top panel to the back of the machine then lift it.
3. Disconnect the wiring harness connector from the control panel.
4. Pull the dispenser drawer out and remove the two screws under it.
5. Lift the left side of the control panel and pull it out.
6. Remove the four screws holding the top part of the front panel to the cabinet.
7. Open the pump filter cover and remove the screw holding it.
8. Insert a flat-bladed screwdriver or a putty knife in the left and right edges of the filter cover then pull it out.
9. Remove the screw from where the pump filter cover is removed.
10. Open the door and remove the door gasket retaining hoop by stretching the retainer spring.
11. Peel off the door gasket into the drum.
    
12. Tilt the front panel and remove the door switch wiring harness connector.
13. Lift and remove the front panel from the cabinet.
14. Remove the sump drain plug and drain the water in the sump into a shallow pan.
15. Remove the sump hose from the tub by loosening the clamp holding it.
16. Remove the drain hose from the drain pump and the recirculation hose from the recirculation pump if there's any.
    
17. Remove the two screws holding the pump assembly to the cabinet.
18. Push the pump assembly in and lift it out of the machine.
    
19. Remove the pump filter from the pump housing and check it for any obstruction.
20. Check the sump and drain hoses for any obstruction.
21. Remove the drain pump from the housing and check the impeller for any obstruction or damage.
22. Replace the drain pump if the impeller is damaged or if no obvious obstruction is found in the pump filter, sump hose, or drain hose.
23. Install the new drain pump and reassemble the other parts in reverse of the disassembly steps above.

Please let me know if you need further assistance regarding this problem.

It's very old, stagnate water full of bacteria. Poor some Clorox in the sump and let it sit a while. Not the whole bottle, a few cups.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

hi there.......your problem can occur when the sump of your apliance becomes flodded....this activates the anti flood switch which causes the drain pump to run....soloution is to dry out the sump or remove machine from its location...tilt it back letting excess water flow from the sump..check that all fixing screws in cabinet are secure including the air vent (mid way u the left/rt hand side of inner cabinet...
test appliance again if problem persists you will need to change the water flow meter

regards Sir Galahad

Storm sewer or rain water run off area. In other words , almost anywhere where it won't come back in.

the sump pump shold not be run into the sanitary sewer, but if your floor drain is hooked to a sump pump pit and it doesn';t pump the water before it gets to the drain tile it could come up in the drain,, to solve the problem get a pump that the float is lower in the pit,, suggestion zoeller cast iron submersable pump cost about 100 less the install price, great low profile pump, it keeps less waterin the sump pump pit so there is less mosture

I have now solved the problem with our WFxxx washing machine. I was moments away from doing the same (dumping it and buying a new machine), but thought I would take the back off and look to see if I could find anything obvious first.
I am not very technically minded so I was well pleased with myself when I fixed the problem and saved myself a small fortune on a new washer. I was also amazed that it was something really simple that nearly cost me loads of money. The problem cost me nothing to repair but I got a bit wet (a small price to pay).

The problem was caused by a blockage in the sump Assembly.
I removed the small cover plate at the bottom of the back cover (held on by just 2 screws). This gives access to the drain pump and sump assembly. Using a flat bladed screw driver I removed the hose clip securing the sump assembly to the main drum outlet. I also removed the clips securing the sump assembly to the drain pump and the clip securing the pressure sensor sender tube to the sump assembly.
All clips removed I then removed the sump assembly from the main drum. At this point a got a good soaking as trapped water gushed from the main drum outlet!!
Inside the sump I found about £2 in loose change and several paper tissues. (Someone's not emptying their packets before doing the laundry!!!). This blockage was preventing the water from draining away from the drum effectively.
After removing the coins and the rest of the gunge that was causing the blockage (not a very pleasant job and a bit smelly!!), I washed out the sump Assembly in hot soapy water and re-assembled the whole thing. The machine has worked perfectly ever since. The whole repair process took me about 40 minutes and saved me a fortune!

Sump Assembly complete with small-bore pressure switch tube. (Below)
Pressure Switch (Below)


Why did the blocked sump assembly effect the wash cycle?

As I said earlier, I am not technically minded so this is simply my theory of what went wrong.
When the washing machine is draining, water entering the sump is forced up the small bore tube to a Pressure Switch. While there is water pressure pressing against this Pressure Switch, the machine knows that there is still water in the main drum and will not move on to its next part of the wash cycle until the water pressure on this switch is released. Because of the blockage in the sump, the pressure was not released from the pressure switch causing the wash cycle to come to a stand still.

I hope this helps other people experiencing a similar problem with the WFxxx models. A very easy fault to fix (once I discovered what was causing it) and It's certainly cheaper than buying a new machine!