1000's have the same issue.

the fuse or fuses that will be bad are on the G board which is located to the left of the tv that stands vertically. on the D board the 2 convergence amplifiers are screwed into the 2 large aluminum heat sinks that have the thin metal fins part number STK392-560 can use STK392-570. most repair shops mine included charge around $300.00 for repair if you have soldering skills then the component parts replacement is the cheapest way to go. the entire Dboard runs about $215 nowadays and the convegence amps run around $40-50 a piece plus $5 for the pico fuses.

Sounds like your power board has issues and needs repairing or replacing, if your tech savvy you can repair it but it might make more sense to order a new one, this board is known for issues in tvs like you have

power supply issue. the caps probably dried up. you'll need to replace the power supply. it is a good idea to blow the dust out of it with canned air.

Mine did the same thing (VP322), I would go to turn it back on after it having been off for a while, and it would turn on, then off, then on... Over time it would cycle on and off even longer... Eventually it stopped working, would not turn on and made a clicking sound.

Mine was past it's warrently, so I opened it up and inspected the switchmode power supply board (where AC connects, and two voltage ribbon cables going to screen circuit and main circuit). On the side going to the main circuit board I noticed that five electrolytic capacitors were bulging at the top (a clear sign of overheating) and when this happens, their values (in farads) tends to drop, which can cause voltage instibilities.

The capacitor values were:

2 x 25V 1000 uF
2 x 10V 3300 uF
1 x 10V 1000 uF

I replaced them with spares and reassembled the unit, and it now works.

Hope that helps!

Mine did the same thing (VP322), I would go to turn it back on after it having been off for a while, and it would turn on, then off, then on... Over time it would cycle on and off even longer... Eventually it stopped working, would not turn on and made a clicking sound.

Mine was past it's warrently, so I opened it up and inspected the switchmode power supply board (where AC connects, and two voltage ribbon cables going to screen circuit and main circuit). On the side going to the main circuit board I noticed that five electrolytic capacitors were bulging at the top (a clear sign of overheating) and when this happens, their values (in farads) tends to drop, which can cause voltage instibilities.

The capacitor values were:

2 x 25V 1000 uF
2 x 10V 3300 uF
1 x 10V 1000 uF

I replaced them with spares and reassembled the unit, and it now works.

Hope that helps!

Check C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4 (1000 uFD, 16V, 105C) on the DM PCB.
Check C8F19, C8F21, C8F22 and C8F27 (1000 uFD, 16V, 105C) on the FMT PCB.
If any are bad, replace all of them with part # 181P734030 (680 uFD, 16V, 105C).

Make sure that you do not open the door during the wash cycle. Wait until all the cycles are complete before opening the door. Especially don't open the door during the drying cycle.

You can get the schematics for the bn96 00249a smps here in pdf format. http://www.wimtv.be/techniforum/files/ps42p3sx_ch._d58a.pdf

If the water in the basement came up high enough to cover the main boards in the projection TV, then I would not even attempt to repair it - the cost of replacing the boards, if available, and the realignment would be as much or more than a new set.