Installed a new starter which worked for 5 starts now nothing, the new starter came with 2 posts, old one had only 1, did we hook up the wire to the wrong post? if so why did it work when we first installed it?? confused
Use a test light to check for power on battery cable at starter and then power to smaller wire while someone holding in key in crank position. If you have power to both your new starter needs to be warrantied/replaced
SOURCE: 93 Buick Skylark replacing starter...old one had
Just hook small wire on the same post that it was on the old starter, don't worry about the other post, sometimes the starters are made for different applactions.
SOURCE: I can not find the neutral safety switch on a 2000 buick park ave
Any chance your vehicles have a security/alarm system. Disconnecting battery on some, will arm it sometimes & not allow it to run. Using key to unlock door, on driver & passenger side have been known to work on some vehicles, but if not, a call to dealer should help.
SOURCE: Engine died i changed the ignition module it
faulty ECU, crankshaft position sensor. If you go to autozone they can hook their scan tool up to the car and then they can run a diagnostic on it and then you can go from there with repairs.
SOURCE: 91 Buick Roadmaster wont start....... Baffeling
If the engine will not turn over using the starter then it cannot be the fuel pump. If the car has a factory inhibitor system installed, the chances are that it is this system that is preventing the car from starting. You may not have to press a button on the key fob either, it may have a transponder built into the key fob which transmits it's data at switch on.If you don't have the correct key or a key without a keyfob then the anti-theft system will NOT be disabled and the car will not start. There is no easy answer for this as you need the correct keyfob or you need to purchase and have programmed, the new keys.. If this is not the issue, let me know and I will describe further procedures for your issues..
SOURCE: Blower motor won't work, even with new motor.
Hello Travis.
If yours is dual zone, I believe the resistor (blower control module) is a solid state. Did you check it using the fan speed selector and test the voltage output on the purple wire?
The gray black wire going into the resistor is a variable voltage output from the heater control panel. This signal is amplified by the resistor/blower control module.
The black wire out of the resistor also needs proper good ground.
There is a fuse in the underhood relay/fuse panel that feedback from the resistor output to the blower (purple wire) is also fed back to the heater control panel. Verify this fuse is good.
When blower motors go bad they will often absorb a lot of electrical current. This current has to go through the blower control/resistor and will often burn them out due to the heat developed from the high current load.
These resistors are also mounted in the airflow out of the fan motor to help cool them so if the fan is still drawing current and not blowing the resistor overloads and burns it out.
Not sure how you tested the resistor but I suspect yours is faulty.
If you would like more advise let me know.
KL
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