Fault f11 where is the bridge rectifier

VSD Fault 22 -Current Overload, occurs after the drive motor has been in an overload condition for a period of time.

VSD Fault 33 -Rectifier Temperature, occurs when the input bridge heat sinks is greater than 194*F

Some things to check. Power switch, diodes, or bridge rectifier, any voltage stabilising circuit.

you will need to replace the fuse as this protects the bridge rectifier and triac from overload
make sure you obtain a time delay fuse as a fast blow will fail almost instantly
the fuse is a 10 amp time delay type

http://www.chpower.com/IMAGES/pdfs/manual08/212800_0799.pdf

T1 or T2 may be in the early stages of failure from shorting out. If you are getting a burned varnish smell that persists around the welder, that is the likely cause. Check open circuit voltage, it should measure around 24 volts. If you only measure 12 volts, the bridge has failed.

Otherwise, open it up and check all connections to make they are sound. There is a protective device on the bridge rectifier across the terminals to the ground clamp and gun. This device may be failing in a short circuit mode. Or the bridge rectifier may be failing.

In the event it is the bridge that failed, a workaround is to construct or provide a 24 volt supply to the motor speed control, move the AC connections one to the "+" and one ot the minus terminal thus bypassing the bridge rectifier completely, and use the welder as an AC welder. Or alternately a new one can be constructed from 4 high current rectifiers.

may be the rear bearing has gone,my con/rota packed in and i took the drum out cleaned ,replaced, greesed, and alls well , if it is the rear bearing DON"T let them tell you its scrap if you are good at diy you can take the bearing out and fit new one, bit of a time comsumeing job

Get Dyson out, the powerboard has failed, don't be fooled into thinking replacing the fuse on the board will do the job, it doesn't, a component has failed on the PCB which has caused the fuse to blow in the first place, £95 call out i'm afraid.

You need to transform the voltage to a level that you require, then 'rectify' your voltage to DC, with a bridge rectifier. There are many different types of rectifiers for different uses. Look on the web for electronics, bridge rectifiers.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

no.needs engineer

A fuse blows when there is a fault and it is the first line of protection for the equipment. The fuse used in a typical plug is rated at 4A/220V. This means that a indeed fault does exist inside the equipment that is forcing it to draw a current greater than the rated. Almost certainly, the primary circuit of your Goodmans is at fault. If you are familiar with TV repair then check the bridge rectifier as well as the reservoir capacitor, with the switching semiconductor (BJT or MOSFET or IC) removed. If the fuse blows then the rectifier/capacitor are to blame. If not, then the semiconductor is at fault. If you are a novice, then rather refer servicing to a qualified tech since the risks outweigh the benefits.