Amana upright frost free freezer, early 1970's vintage
Freezer case has line voltage (120 volts) in the case (box) . The ground plug has been isolated with a 2 prong connecter. Freezer runs in this mode, other wise there is a "dead short to ground". Is is likely the defrost heaters are shorted to case? or compressor has internal short? My last test showed no short to ground (case) when compressor running but 120 volts in case when compressor off, pressumably when in drefrost cycle. The defrost timer was removed from contact with the case. However previous test with every thing in place had 120 volts in the case when compressor was running and none when compressor off----HUH?
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Re: Amana upright frost free freezer, early 1970's...
For the love of God get rid of this death trap.
It could be that it was meant to have a neutral earth, ie the neutral is connected to earth at the substation and house inlet and somehow the live and neutral has become reversed at the plug.
You have seen the case becomes live, this may be happening due to leakage current or a short as you say.
Either way the earth was there for a reason, to stop the case from becoming dangerous and you have removed that protection.
Neither the heater element or motor windings should have continuity to the case, I'd disconnect and check these out individually to isolate the problem and repair it, then put the earth connection back before using the freezer.
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Frost will normally build up if you do not have frost free freezer and in which case it is possible the frost free system is faulty. If it is not frost free then it has to be defrosted a few times in a month. However if the frost comes up very quickly then there are possible causes.
You may be having leakage from the door seals or there are items in the freezer that are not properly covered to avoid moisture escaping. Other possibility is that your freezer is set too cold and there are not many items in it.
Electronic components are very sensitive to voltage surges, spikes or sags.
Voltage is not delivered at a constant 120 volts. With alternating current, the voltage rises and falls in a predetermined rhythm. The voltage oscillates from 0 to a peak voltage of 169 volts. Most appliances and electronics used in the United States are designed to be powered by this form of generated electricity.
During a power surge, the voltage exceeds the peak voltage of 169 volts.
A spike in voltage can be harmful to appliances and electrical devices in your home. An increase in voltage above an appliance's normal operating voltage can cause an arc of electrical current within the appliance. The heat generated in the arc causes damage to the electronic circuit boards and other electrical components.
(Smaller, repeated power surges may slowly damage your electronic equipment, over time too.)
Voltage sags, a.k.a voltage dips or brownouts, is another form of electrical disturbance that can damage appliances as well.
The bottom line, power surges, spikes, and sags can vary in duration and magnitude; and can damage electrical equipment ranging from stereos to computers to any household appliance that uses chip board circuitry sensitive enough to "blow" due to over or under-energizing it.
You have a plugged defrost drain line.Lokk on the very bottom and way way back to see if yu can see the drain. Also check underneath you lmay be able to get to it from there or else in back of freezer.Hope this helped.
Maybe it is in the middle of a 21 minute defrost cycle? Is the fan running? Sometimes the defrost timer gets hung in defrost. If that is fine I would see if 120 volts is getting to the relay on the compressor. Sometimes an older temp control will die if fiddled with. Did you turn it before moving the freezer? Those are some things I would check. Sometimes wires get yanked out of place when you move an appliance so check that as well. Post your model number and I might have a service manual you can download OR just go to my website and find one HERE
Good day, Somewhat handicapped not knowing if it's a conventional freezer or frost free. 1. If it's frost free check to see if the fan motor is running in the freezer compartment. 2. As well if it has a fan motor in the compressor compartment, see if it is running as well.
3. If it is a conventional model, make sure it is turned on and make sure it is running. If running, then it has lost it's refrigerant charge or the compressor has lost it's pumping capacity.
4. If it is item 3, then unless it's less then 5 years old, the sealed system/compressor problem is so pricey that it's not a practical repair. If under 5 years Amana will pay for these repairs, whether it's conventional or frost free.
Without any additional info, there are a lot of possibilities:
1. Condenser coil (underneath unit) is dirty and clogged.
2. Compressor is failing. (need A/C tech)
3. Metering device is clogged. (need A/C tech)
4. Refrigerant charge is low. (need A/C tech)
5. Door seal is broken (frost will form around door).
6. Defrost heaters are stuck on (replace defrost timer located underneath unit at front).
7. Condenser fan has failed (underneath freezer on back).
8. Evaporator fan (inside fan) has failed (ice will form on cooling coil).
This should get you started...
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simple stuff, you have a compressor a stat and power. check the receptacle to be sure you have 120 volts . then check the compressor with stat at max cold setting to see if you have 120 volts at compressor. if you do then compresssor is bad =new compressor or new unit. if no power to compressor then stat is bad= new stat. i always recomend new unit cause new stat or compressor wont fix a freon leak.... i have replaced a few compressors that died soon after due to a freon leak. good luck...
An upright freezer that is not frost free will have the coils in the shelves (shelves are non-removeable) and that is where the frost will buildup. If your model is like this then it will have to be defrosted periodically. If your not sure then give me the entire model # from the sticker inside the freezer and I will look it up for you.