Will not auto switch off when boiled - Russell Hobbs RHOK3123 Cordless Electric Kettle

adjust the pressure switch if it has an auto switch off
if it is a jet pump then the water will continue to circulate through the pump back to the jet nozzle and up to the pump
if it is not controlled the eventually the pump will boil the water and overheat

The switch has to turn off when the water boils as the heat generated must cut off the switch. If this wont work the bimetal is not working and the switch is not responding.
You will need to replace the switch. Please contact the dealership for the spare.
check this link for spare:
http://www.espares.co.uk/brands/kettles/p/1102

It looks rather like my slow cooker which has a 3 position switch with LOW, HIGH and AUTO.
AUTO uses a thermostat control to prevent the contents from boiling. Useful if being left unwatched. HIGH setting can cause burning if contents not stirred, and LOW setting is only of use to keep things warm. Hope that helped.

I think that standards require an auto-shutoff on electric pots to keep the component from softening down. You could override the shutoff by either taping over the switch or utilizing an elastic band. You can check deep details on electric kettle review sites.

The pressure stat is defective and needs to be replaced.

Hi
Make sure that the lid is securely on. Otherwise its the replacement of the auto bi metalic strip which turns the kettle off

much simpler solution: if the filter is not installed, is not installed correctly, or is ripped, the kettle will fail to shut off. also, this model has a lid that must be set down very tight; any leakage around the lid will allow steam to escape, and will cancel the auto shut-off.

the filters on these kettles are a very weak spot in the engineering of the product.

I had a similar failure with my Braun WK600. Switch it on and the lights flicker and go out before it boils. Took it apart (Tamper Proof TORX, available from Snap-On, Canadian Tire, probably most auto parts places that also sell tools). The On-Off switch has a mechanical lock out for the lid being open and also for when it is not mounted on the base. The kettle also has three bi-metallic temperature switches. One shuts off the kettle after it has boiled long enough. The other two sit up against the element assembly adjacent to each end of the heating element.They protect against boiling an empty kettle by sensing the higher element temperture when there is no water to conduct away the heat. In the case where the lights flicker and go out, but the switch stays 'On' these are the likely culprit.
In my kettle the contacts did not line up correctly. Instead of making good contact they were only partially overlapping like a couple of the olympic rings or a couple of rings from the Audi logo. This resulted in a localized increased resistance and high heat in one of the contact holders which eventually melted the surrounding plastic. At that point the wires going to the element behaved a bit like springs which forced the contact holder further out of alignment until it all became hot enough to trigger the thermal switch.
I fixed it by bending the contact holder, which is fused into the now hardened plastic, to the optimal position and hopefully it will not generate enough heat to remelt the plastic or trip the thermal switch.
I have boiled a couple of kettleful's; so far so good!

Oh, and if you take your kettle apart and your house burns down it is not my fault.

I had a similar failure. Switch it on and the lights flicker and go out before it boils. Took it apart (Tamper Proof TORX, available from Snap-On, Canadian Tire, probably most auto parts places that also sell tools). The On-Off switch has a mechanical lock out for the lid being open and also for when it is not mounted on the base. The kettle also has three bi-metallic temperature switches. One shuts off the kettle after it has boiled long enough. The other two sit up against the element assembly adjacent to each end of the heating element.They protect against boiling an empty kettle by sensing the higher element temperture when there is no water to conduct away the heat. In the case where the lights flicker and go out, but the switch stays 'On' these are the likely culprit.
In my kettle the contacts did not line up correctly. Instead of making good contact they were only partially overlapping like a couple of the olympic rings or a couple of rings from the Audi logo. This resulted in a localized increased resistance and high heat in one of the contact holders which eventually melted the surrounding plastic. At that point the wires going to the element behaved a bit like springs which forced the contact holder further out of alignment until it all became hot enough to trigger the thermal switch.
I fixed it by bending the contact holder, which is fused into the now hardened plastic, to the optimal position and hopefully it will not generate enough heat to remelt the plastic or trip the thermal switch.
I have boiled a couple of kettlefuls; so far so good!

What ticks me off about this is that I don't mind getting 'Made In China' ****; everything comes from China anyway. But don't charge me a ridiculous amount of money and try to pretend that I am getting a superiour product. If I had paid twenty dollars or less for it I would just chuck it and get the same one again because it looks nice, pours well, doesn't burn the hands, worked OK for couple of years, etc. Instead I walk away from this feeling really ripped off. I have a house full of Braun products(shaver, kettle multiple tooth brushes) but now I won't buy any more.

Oh and if you take your kettle apart and your house burns down it is not my fault. There, now I feel better.