Kitchen aid microwave door error

I looked up the parts break down for this model there are 7 different ones your last 2 digits are missing this unit dos not use torsion springs the MW door should have a brown arm riveted to the door that goes into the frame this activates a switch

Turn the power to the oven off. It usually is not possible to unplug the power chord for the built-in appliances so go to the main switch board and just turn off the oven power for about 5 minutes and then turn on the switch. The error code should disappear. Mine did!
Chander Mehta

Hello,4 Digit Failure Code F0 - E0 Analog to Digital Failure Disconnect for 30 seconds - if display re-appears - replace control F1 - E1 Safety flip flop Replace Electronic Range Control/Clock(ERC) F2 - E0 Shorted keypad Replace Electronic Range Control/Clock(ERC) F3 - E0 Oven temperature sensor or oven temperature sensor fuse opened Replace oven temperature sensor or fuse F3 - E1 Oven temperature sensor shorted Replace oven temperature sensor F3 - E2 Oven too hot Replace oven temperature sensor F3 - E3 Clean temp too hot Replace oven temperature sensor F5 - E0 F5 - E1 and E2 Check door/latch switch Replace component 2 Digit Failure Code F0 or F1 or F5 Failed transistor Replace Electronic Range Control/Clock(ERC) F2 - E0 Oven temp too high 1. Test operation of door lock on self-clean models
2. Test relay contact operation
3. High resistance in oven temperature sensor F3

Thanks

Lisa, I do not have a solution, but have the same problem. My KA superba micro has been used about 10 times. While it was off, and while no one was home, the outer glass in the door shattered. I suspect this may be a defect.

In the cabinet above the microwave there wil be 2 to 4 screws that have to be removed.
You need 2 people to remove this unit.

turn off the main power outlet it will work.

"I get a "Door" message when I try to start it. The Message only shows when I try to set the time with one of the function buttons, like and dosent work

when you took down the control panel and gained acess to the upper cavity , there wasnt a service manual just to the left inside a red plastic bag???, if not there is another fuse loacted just behind the micro front looks to be atop the capacitor area

I'm posting this as a solution after I went through several different web sites to and trial & error to fix my "DOOR" error code problem.
The original question I submitted can be summarized: I need to replace the 15A interlock fuse. Can you point me to a manual that describes where this fuse is and how to replace it?

Here's the answer for the KitchenAid KEMC308K series.
1) The service manual is behind the control panel on the left hand side. For my built-in, I turned off the power and removed the oven from the cabinet, exposing the sheet metal shroud. Remove the top piece and there on the left hand side is the service manual.
2) The manual indicates the fuse is in the right rear of the microwave. This is correct, but it is actually accessible through the right side.

As long as I slogged though this, I thought some other people would like to know how to solve the "door" error problem. It could be caused by a faulty control panel, but before going there, the check the switches and fuse in the door interlock circuit. Check this link for a discussion: http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/switch.html

Repair steps:
Remove the rear sheet metal shroud and you see nothing but the back and side of the microwave. Remove the right sheet metal shroud and expose the right side of the microwave. This panel has a bunch of warnings, heed them. However, the are missing one: SHARP EDGES. Think about putting tape on the exposed sheet metal edges. Remove the panel and expose the "guts" of the microwave: Rectifier, wave guide, magnetron, capacitor, and such. The interlock fuse is next to the capacitor contacts. Safely discharge the capacitor (method described in numerous places via google search and the link http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/safety.html ).

After the capacitor is discharged, remove the fuse, verify it is blown using an ohm meter (ceramic fuse - you can't see inside). The fuse is actually (despite what the tech manual says) a 20A 250V fuse. Available at radio shack in a pack of 4 for $2.99. Install the new fuse.

As long as you have this much done, may as well ensure that the microswitches still work. Remove the contacts from the microswitch. There are 2 close to each other. From the 3rd contact to these, one should open when the other should be closed. Ensure that this is true and that when the switch is depressed, the state reverses (the contact that was open is now close & connects to the common). Do this for both door-closed sensing microswitches and replace the wiring to the microswitches. Replace all the microwave side panels and the sheet metal shroud. Turn on the breaker and hopefully, as it was on mine, the "DOOR" error message is gone and it starts up normally.

Oh, when the power comes on the unit runs a self test, lots of blinking lights followed by a power-failure error code when the power comes on. I think it was pf .d=30. Hit cancel and it goes away.

So, this is a pain to do b/c there are about 40 sheet metal screws to deal with and one has to be careful discharging the cap. Pulling the oven out of the cabinet was the hardest part. I build a table at the same height and just slid the entire unit right onto my "work table." If I had to do it again, I'd have the entire thing done in under 30 minutes.

Hope this helps someone else!
sb

The F-3 error code typically means you have sensor problem. The sensor is usually mounted in the oven space up near the top of the unit. The first thing to do is turn off the circuit breaker to the oven. Do you have an ohm meter? I suggest if you don't to purchase one. They are relatively inexpensive. Maybe you can borrow one from a friend. Disconnect the sensor from the electronic control and measure the resistance. There should be a wiring diagram in the top of the unit that will help you to locate the sensor wires. Most sensors should read around 1100 ohms at room temperature. If sensor reads as an open circuit or has a very high resistance, it must be replaced. If instead it reads very low, then there is a short in the wiring. Some units have a fuse in series with the sensor. Check to see that the fuse has not blown.